Salus RT520TX Not triggering boiler

[Richard Holland]

Hi everyone,
I’ve replaced a broken thermostat with a Salus RT520TX, wired as directed and connected to the wireless unit. It’s programmed etc, but it doesn’t switch on or off the boiler, even though the green light goes on when it should, I can’t work out what the problem is, please help???

 

[ianmcd]

Pics are always best show us how you wired it

 

[Richard Holland]

Thanks, good point, I’ve attached a picture to show that both lights come on and one of the wiring.

 

[Deleted member 267285]

You’ve only supplied power to the receiver, so it can’t switch the heating in/off. You need wires in com and no. Do you have a before photo?

 

[Richard Holland]

Yes, here it is

 

[Richard Holland]

Try again

 

[Deleted member 267285]

Ok, so you have replaced a battery operated hard wired 2 wire thermostat, for a wireless thermostat, which requires a permanent live and permanent neutral.

Is the new receiver in place of the Honeywell?

 

[Richard Holland]

No, the salus is in replacement of the old battery one.
There is an additional grey wire in the hole, that wasn’t connected before, so I need to use that for anything?

 

[Deleted member 267285]

No, the salus is in replacement of the old battery one.
There is an additional grey wire in the hole, that wasn’t connected before, so I need to use that for anything?

Sorry, just edited above message, I meant Honeywell. The unused grey wire needs to be confirmed it’s a neutral, if it is, you can use it and we can get it to work, either that or swap for another 2 battery, or wire the Salus elsewhere.

 

[Richard Holland]

Yes that’s right, replaced the Honeywell.

if the grey is neutral, how can it be used, and how can I confirm it, or will it be easier to get a different thermostat altogether?

the reason I wanted this type of thermostat was because we have AC in the same room, so the heating kept coming on, but it might be easier just to switch the heating off in the summer.

 

[Deleted member 267285]

Trace the wire to find out if connected to a neutral, if it’s not, sometimes it can be easily added, and then the live and neutral can feed the Salus receiver, and the black would be the normally open terminal with a link between live and common. It might be easier to get another thermostat altogether? Can the room stat not just be lowered to below temperature or turn the heating off until required?

 

[Richard Holland]

I think you could be right, I’m not very good at this, buying another might be the best option.
Any recommendations?

 

[ianmcd]

that is completely wrong, the two wires you have are live and switched live, they go to com and NO on the salus, then you need to supply a Live and neutral to the receiver, this supply must come from the same spur as the other controls and boiler

 

[Richard Holland]

Thanks, so no way this would work with the current wiring setup?

 

[ianmcd]

Thanks, so no way this would work with the current wiring setup?

nope you need to run another cable , or get another battery powered stat like your old one was