Saunier Duval 620 (yep, another one...)

[Whoopsie]

Hi all,

Been doing a lot of research on a boiler problem, so by now am painfully aware that this little baby (620 F) is not everyones favourite

Right now, due to many factors, a replacement boiler is out of the question due to a lack of funds, but is top of the list when funds would be available next Summer/Autumn.

So I am looking for the next best thing - either an easy and inexpensive fix to the problem (I'm an optimist) until I can replace the boiler next year, or just confirmation that there is no easy fix and I can stop wondering and just live with the problem.

The main problem is that while the central heating is fine, the HW won't fire in Summer mode. To get hot water we have to put the CH on in Winter mode, wait 5 minutes and voila - hot water. Bit of a pain if we forget to switch it bak after washing up or having a shower.

Intermittently, but not lately, it will stay "fired" if you push it into summer mode while the hot tap is on.

It has a slow leak, but that's the least of the issues. I know this is probably "bad" but the boiler doesn't seem to be affected once it's been leaking for a week and the pressure has dropped to nothing. I am normally quite good at refilling to 1 bar but sometimes it can be a week.

One further question (apologies i I am taking liberties here) but once the front panel is removed, there is what looks like a ballcock from a cistern with a turnable knob on it - what is that?

Many thanks for any and all advice,

Regards,

DFC

 

[Gasguru]

Probably the diaphragm has perrished. An arch kit containing all the bits is around £20.00. Providing you have at least 300mm beneath the boiler it's a fairly straighforward job. Biggest pain is lining up the slip coupling since the wall jig and boiler are often out of alignment (due to settelement).

Keep about 0.5 bar in the system...otherwise the overheating will kill it off even quicker. Don't be tempted to tighten any leaking hose clips....the plastic unions are normally brittle by now and shear off.

Ballcock? No idea.

 

[Deleted member 105431]

call saunier duval 01773 828100

 

[Gasguru]

Surely they don't fix these on fixed price anymore?

 

[twgas]

(620 F) is not everyones favourite

should read anyone's

ballcock from a cistern with a turnable knob on it

think its the pump, but not seen a SD for some time

hot water problem will be the flow sensing arrangement - not too sure what set up this boiler has though

 

[Deleted member 105431]

Surely they don't fix these on fixed price anymore?

surprisingly they still do

 

[Gasguru]

Remove the two screws arrowed...turn on the hot tap and see if the actuating pin at the back operates and moves the cam. If not...arch kit req.

Untitled

• Gasguru
• 12 Sep 2008
• 1

 

[Whoopsie]

Probably the diaphragm has perrished. An arch kit containing all the bits is around £20.00. Providing you have at least 300mm beneath the boiler it's a fairly straighforward job. Biggest pain is lining up the slip coupling since the wall jig and boiler are often out of alignment (due to settelement).

Keep about 0.5 bar in the system...otherwise the overheating will kill it off even quicker. Don't be tempted to tighten any leaking hose clips....the plastic unions are normally brittle by now and shear off.

Ballcock? No idea.

Wow - so many posts - this place is ace! Thanks

Thanks Gasguru - There is enough space for a microwave under the boiler, so no worries about access. Is this a simple enough job for someone with no clue? Should I allow and hour or half a day?

Surely they don't fix these on fixed price anymore?

surprisingly they still do

SD will still work on this boiler? And quote a fixed price? Wow!

Remove the two screws arrowed...turn on the hot tap and see if the actuating pin at the back operates and moves the cam. If not...arch kit req.

Untitled

• Gasguru
• 12 Sep 2008
• 1

I'll give it a go - not too sure about the actuating pin/cam stuff (a spanner perplexes me) but happy to give it a go.

That black round thing that the left most arrow is on is the ballcock type thing I meant - the knob is immediately to the left of the arrow.

 

[Gasguru]

The round item is the pump and the cap on the front should be tight (it accesses the pump shaft).

If you haven't sussed a spanner this won't be a simple job.

Try calling SD.

 

[Whoopsie]

The round item is the pump and the cap on the front should be tight (it accesses the pump shaft).

If you haven't sussed a spanner this won't be a simple job.

Try calling SD.

I'm probably being a little harsh on myself with the spanner comment - I'm just not a DIY enthusiast or know much about boilers!

I called SD and they did offer a fixed price repair excluding the heat exchanger and expansion vessel for £250 but this was retracted once they aged the boiler as being more mature than 15 years! They then offered a boiler at cost to fix the existing footprint - which is something to consider when the funds are available.

So looking again at the arch kit option. I found this link //www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15174 which sounds like my problem and I'd be happy to pay up £50-£75 for someone to do it who knows what they are doing.

 

[Whoopsie]

Can I ask whether £50 to £75 is a fair price to expect to pay for this job? I don't want to pay above the odds, but I don't want to speak to plumbers with an unrealistic idea of what this job should cost.

What the chap in the link paid is my only indication of how much the job should cost.

Thanks

 

[Agile]

Can I ask whether £50 to £75 is a fair price to expect to pay for this job? I don't want to pay above the odds, but I don't want to speak to plumbers with an unrealistic idea of what this job should cost.

Thanks

Whilst I cannot comment on others prices, we charge a minimum of £84 for any boiler repair!

However, your job on such an old boiler which is already leaking is a recipe for disaster!

There are about 30 places where it can leak and if I repaired one then I would be expected to come out free every week for the next year to deal with each new leak.

I find it a difficult job and would not recommend you to attempt to repair it yourself. If you must then I would suggest you buy a complete new right hand unit which are surprisingly cheap and come with a kit of rubber rings.

Why not get Gasguru to come and do it for you as he evidently finds it an easy job! Many others would suggest you do it yourself just to see you getting into difficulty but Geoff is not like that.

A cheaper replacement boiler would be about £1500 supplied and fitted and my advice would be to replace it now with a bank loan if necessary.

Tony

 

[Whoopsie]

I appreciate your candid response and views Agile. Right now a loan is not an option for many reasons which I will spare you. A new boiler is definitely on the list for next year.

I'd be happy to talk to Geoff/gasguru about doing it for me. Geoff if you are watching and are interested (we are in Lewisham) please send me a message.

Excuse my plumbing ignorance but what does the "right hand unit" incorporate?

 

[ChrisR]

Your boiler will have a lot more than just one fault, they always do. ANyone taking it on would need to know that you realise he may have to mend several things, and probably go off for parts. If you aren't ready to pay for all of that, struggle on.

"Fixed Price" repair companies are liable to condemn and disconnect the boiler if they find much wrong, and leave you worse off.

 

[Mark300zx]

Hi,

Sorry to Hijack the post, my 620f is not giving me hot water or heating, is there a diagnostic procedure to try and find out what is at fault?

Thanks