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Seal worktop sink cutout

Discussion in 'General DIY' started by M85, 13 Dec 2017.

  1. M85

    M85

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    Hi all,

    Looking to seal the rough cut, open chipboard of laminate worktop.
    I know that regular PVA glue isn’t waterproof but you can get a waterproof PVA.

    Many suggestions like SBR and varnish but looking for quick setting stuff.

    Noticed Everbuild D4 Wood Glue as in this link
    https://www.sealantsandtoolsdirect....rproof_wood_adhesive_1_litre_d41_ P23443.html

    They also do an interior/exterior adhesive but would the D4 be better?

    Also, Is it best practice to seal the back edge of worktop that goes against the wall?

    Many thanks
     
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  3. Far better to apply silicone sealant with a spatula; and yes to sealing the back edge as well - it's amazing how often water can get down the back with all that water splashing around.
     
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  4. foxhole

    foxhole

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    I use foil tape, heat and waterproof and no chance of missing a spot, also use underneath above appliances to avoid moisture damage.
     
  5. M85

    M85

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    Yes, foil tape sounds good. I'm getting a roll for joining my cooker hood ducting together.
    No doubt my kitchen fitter would complain about me using tape instead of silicone though. :LOL:

    As an aside to do with my cooker hood vent.
    Every single one, whether builder, joiner or fitter has looked at the 100mm hole in the wall and said, why do you want to enlarge it to 150mm?
    100mm is fine!
    Eh, because the warranty says 150mm is my response.

    So foil tape would be good, just to annoy them :p
    Seriously though, I'm in shi**y IT, so wish I'd 'stuck in at school' and got a trade.
    Always liked metalwork!
    My attention to detail and doing the job correctly might cost more but measure twice and cut once etc..

    Rant over :D
     
    Last edited: 15 Dec 2017
  6. foxhole

    foxhole

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    Could have fitted a second 100mm hole and used a Y joint to give a larger outlet.
    My extractor uses 150 reduced to 100 and is fine. My outlet is roof vent with no baffle so minimal restriction to flow .
     
  7. If you can enlarge to 150mm then do it. It'll extend the life of the extractor, and more importantly, make it quieter. Throw some weak sand and cement 6:1 into the hole, and then you can start from scratch.
     
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  9. endecotp

    endecotp

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    <pedantic>
    One 150mm hole has a slightly larger area than two 100mm holes.
    </pedantic>
     
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  10. opps

    opps

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    Good point

    (approx) 70650 vs 62800 mm squared.

    TBH I wouldn't have twigged that had it not been for your post, tnx.
     
  11. endecotp

    endecotp

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    Nope.

    Think about it: a 100mm diameter hole is going to be about 3/4 of the size of a 100mm square hole; a 100mm square hole is 100x100 = 10,000 square mm. So one 100mm round hole will be about 7,500 sq mm and two will be about 15,000 sq mm.

    Your 62,800 looks like it's off by a factor of 4 to me. Have you used pi r squared with the diameter instead of thr radius?
     
  12. Notch7

    Notch7

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    17600 vs 15700 I make it.

    I would enlarge hole to 150mm.

    Why buy a powerful extractor and then restrict its performance for the sake of a hole
     
  13. opps

    opps

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    *blushes* yep, diameter rather than radius. Pub time posting...
     
  14. DIYnot Local

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