Self Build - Alarm System

[Whitey012001]

Hi all,

I'm about to start a self build and am going to install an alarm system. I think I know how I am hoping to install it but would appreciate and welcome and advice or additions over my plan.

I also would like 2 entry and set points, is this possible?

Here's what I though:

Entrance hall
Remote Keypad near door (or should this be elsewhere?)
Contact on door
Contact on 2x windows or PIR in hall?

Kitchen
PIR

Utility Room
Contact on Door
Remote Keypad (additional entry point used)

Lounge
PIR

Upstairs Hallway
PIR

Any help or additions greatly appreciated .

Thanks in advance

Neil

 

[sparkymarka]

Yes don't forget phone line to panel if you need it in future, and a spare cable to loft just to be on safe side...

 

[socdesign]

Pop in a Galaxy G2 panel with low cost Ethernet. Wire as suggested, but contacts on front and back doors (fitted at the top non hinge side out of the way) and PIR's everywhere else. You can have a keyprox keypad at the front and one at the back. You can also have remote control over IP and low cost self monitoring reporting.

If there's glass at the back that's vulnerable, then put in a flexguard glassbreak for that or just leave it with a standard PIR or dualtec PIR if lots of glass to cover the area as you suggested. I wouldn't bother with contacts on the windows as they're unsightly and generally need omitted in the summer when you want windows left open for fresh air. If you're really set on having them, then get the wiring in before the plaster board goes on. Goal is always no wires showing.

Get all your phone/comm's cabling to a point in a cupboard and ensure that the panel can have a phone or Ethernet cable that will reach your broadband router.

I use the Honeywell IS215-TCE sensors. They're small/neat and are very reliable against false alarms.

Wire everything in high quality 8 core alarm cable and don't snip off the spare cores - just tie them back in the sensors (obv not in the mag contacts).

Nice touch on the spare cable Mark... For a multi-level home, I would consider a big conduit from under the floor to the attic. Luckily my own home has a cavity for the soil stack which goes up through the whole house. Today it's CAT6 cable, it may move to fibre at some point in the future...

 

[sparkymarka]

Was going to say cat 5/6 as this is the way things are going ....

 

[EightyTwo]

Any bedrooms accessible through a window from a single storey roof/porch/garage? If so, put a PIR in there too.

You could add a panic button in your bedroom if it would make you feel more secure.

Self-builds are often made with a lot of wood. You could add several smoke/heat detectors (like the Menvier M12) and run the cables back to your panel or expander position.

As socdesign says, get all the cables in before the plasterboard and architraves.

You may like to consider buying slightly more expensive detectors and contacts with resistors built in. That will make it easier to do the eol tamper monitoring. - Don't consider a global tamper system unless you're really handy with a multimeter !

 

[Whitey012001]

I wouldn't bother with contacts on the windows as they're unsightly and generally need omitted in the summer when you want windows left open for fresh air.

Thanks all, how would the hall be set up. I will have 2 windows in my hall. One would be vulnerable down the side of the house. If I have a door contact on the entry/exit zone and a PIR in the hall and somebody gains access through the window the PIR will detect them and set the alarm off. But if I come in to the house via the front door the alarm will go off straight away, sue to the PIR. If I wire the door contact and PIR to the same entry and exit zone if somebody break in through the window there will be a delay before the sounder goes off and they would have time to attempt to disarm? Does that make sense?

All cabling will be going into one central "command centre", so should make it easy to connect to router etc.

 

[socdesign]

The hall PIR can be programmed as exit/entry in day mode which means that as long as the door is triggered first, you are allowed to walk past the hall sensor to get to the keypad. If you came through the window then the alarm would be instant. In night mode, the hall PIR would be programmed as final/entry to allow the timer to be triggered when you come downstairs in the morning.

All zones are fully programmable allowing for many system possibilities.

 

[Whitey012001]

Many thanks.

Why run a spare cable into the loft?

 

[socdesign]

Really just for future use if you ever decide to expand the system in any way. It's usually quite difficult to get wires from top to bottom when the mid floor is in and the plaster is on.

 

[Whitey012001]

Ok, I see. Thanks