This is a long post I'm afraid, so for the patient, or very bored-
I recently moved into a house that has a long room/store/garage next to it. It was originally a narrow (2m wide) passageway that went from the front of the house to the back. Blocks for sidewall, concrete slab for floor and a cold roof with two skylights. Garage doors open to front, door at back goes into the house.
I paln to split it into two sections. One 3x2m front "garage type store." Walls, ceiling and floor untouched. Then a stud partition wall.
The rear 5x2m section that has a step up and door into the house. I want to do a cheap makover to make it into a household store room with a freezer. It justs need to look tidy. I plan a suspended floor in this section to get it up to the house level. The step down will now be into the front "garage" section.
This is a very low budget, low spec project with a lot of free leftover materials from a friend's 2 storey extension. The floor will be 5 lengths of 2x6 timber with 100mm rigid polystyrene between and 50mm air gap beneath (vented out from the step into the front "garage" section.) I'll cover it all with t&g chipboard flooring and then vinyl tiles over the top. Do I need to use noggins or timber slats running parallel underneath to hold the beams in place? There are no visible signs of damp, and as it is ventilated, can I skip a DPM?
I've also got 8 50mm foil backed insulation boards. Could I fix these directly to the brick and block walls and timber roof beams to form a shell. It wont be warm, but better than the brick/block walls. What is the best way to fix these onto the flat walls and roof beams. the roof beams could be screwed but how about the walls? I don't want to dab, so frame fix or grab adhesive/foam?
I originally planned to cover with bought plasterboards and covered with left over wall lining paper and painted. Could I skip the plasterboard expense and faff and glue lining paper directly onto the foil front of the insulation board? Assuming I got the boards level and caulked the joins, would it stick to the foil front? Does not need to be pretty, as there will be door fronted units for of household stuff (junk.)
My plans may sound barmy and method flawed, but please give advice and improvment ideas. As you can tell, I've read a few previous froum posts, but am still clueless!
Thanks
I recently moved into a house that has a long room/store/garage next to it. It was originally a narrow (2m wide) passageway that went from the front of the house to the back. Blocks for sidewall, concrete slab for floor and a cold roof with two skylights. Garage doors open to front, door at back goes into the house.
I paln to split it into two sections. One 3x2m front "garage type store." Walls, ceiling and floor untouched. Then a stud partition wall.
The rear 5x2m section that has a step up and door into the house. I want to do a cheap makover to make it into a household store room with a freezer. It justs need to look tidy. I plan a suspended floor in this section to get it up to the house level. The step down will now be into the front "garage" section.
This is a very low budget, low spec project with a lot of free leftover materials from a friend's 2 storey extension. The floor will be 5 lengths of 2x6 timber with 100mm rigid polystyrene between and 50mm air gap beneath (vented out from the step into the front "garage" section.) I'll cover it all with t&g chipboard flooring and then vinyl tiles over the top. Do I need to use noggins or timber slats running parallel underneath to hold the beams in place? There are no visible signs of damp, and as it is ventilated, can I skip a DPM?
I've also got 8 50mm foil backed insulation boards. Could I fix these directly to the brick and block walls and timber roof beams to form a shell. It wont be warm, but better than the brick/block walls. What is the best way to fix these onto the flat walls and roof beams. the roof beams could be screwed but how about the walls? I don't want to dab, so frame fix or grab adhesive/foam?
I originally planned to cover with bought plasterboards and covered with left over wall lining paper and painted. Could I skip the plasterboard expense and faff and glue lining paper directly onto the foil front of the insulation board? Assuming I got the boards level and caulked the joins, would it stick to the foil front? Does not need to be pretty, as there will be door fronted units for of household stuff (junk.)
My plans may sound barmy and method flawed, but please give advice and improvment ideas. As you can tell, I've read a few previous froum posts, but am still clueless!
Thanks