Setting up your planer?

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Just wondering the best way to set up a planer. Is ilthe blade totally in when bot using so blade pulled in as far as u go and to set it up do u just line up the blade a fraction poking out - check with finger then push the frog or latch down to tighten? I can't seem to make a difference or use the the round adjuster thing- doesn't seem to do it. On another planer when I set it up like I explained above the blade seems to move in; it doesn't stay in place.
14920802262451884065949.jpg
 
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Set the cap iron closer to the blade edge....around 2mm will do.
Then, operate the thumb wheel - that's fixed to the frog - and see that the lever moves - that will engage in the cap iron and push it out of the sole to get a rough cut.
Assemble your plane, but keep the sprung cap on the loose side so the blade can actually still move.....adjust the large screw to set this.
The plane blade should now retract without any problems.
The lever above the thumb wheel engages with the blade so it can be centralised. Don't be scared of keeping the plane well sprayed with WD40 or similar.
John :)
 
just for information
a plane tends to be a hand powered/operated tool that moulds or or smooths the material
a planer tends to be a powered machine that will do the same or similar task with the human input being to adjust to a specific profile or level off operation
 
Set the cap iron closer to the blade edge....around 2mm will do.

But it'll also depend on the material that you are planing. Very soft pine would allow 2mm, hard pine 1mm, but with oak, you might need to take it down to half a mill. And keep the WD40 off of the blade so that it doesn't stain the wood.
 
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Set the cap iron closer to the blade edge....around 2mm will do.
Then, operate the thumb wheel - that's fixed to the frog - and see that the lever moves - that will engage in the cap iron and push it out of the sole to get a rough cut.
Assemble your plane, but keep the sprung cap on the loose side so the blade can actually still move.....adjust the large screw to set this.
The plane blade should now retract without any problems.
The lever above the thumb wheel engages with the blade so it can be centralised. Don't be scared of keeping the plane well sprayed with WD40 or similar.
John :)

Don't get what u mean by set the cap iron close to blade edge say 2 mm. Thanks for other explanations though
 
Looking at the blade and cap iron assembly - the items on the left of your picture - they are held together by a large screw.....you can see the thread but not the head which is on the other side. Undo the screw and the items will part.
After sharpening, set the supporting cap iron just back from the blade edge (2mm or slightly less) and retighten the screw. This forms the shaving 'curl' as the plane is used.
The other large screw on the plane body itself adjusts the pressure on the blade assembly.....set it so you can turn the thumbwheel easily but the blade doesn't float around.
Some emery and WD would be great for cleaning your plane - a wipe afterwards soon removes it from the plane sole.
Its a nice wee smoothing plane - worth looking after!
John :)
 
Looking at the blade and cap iron assembly - the items on the left of your picture - they are held together by a large screw.....you can see the thread but not the head which is on the other side. Undo the screw and the items will part.
After sharpening, set the supporting cap iron just back from the blade edge (2mm or slightly less) and retighten the screw. This forms the shaving 'curl' as the plane is used.
The other large screw on the plane body itself adjusts the pressure on the blade assembly.....set it so you can turn the thumbwheel easily but the blade doesn't float around.
Some emery and WD would be great for cleaning your plane - a wipe afterwards soon removes it from the plane sole.
Its a nice wee smoothing plane - worth looking after!
John :)

These two bits set 2mm apart?
1492334295498-1573432895.jpg
 
When you release the brass screw the cap iron slides up and down.
Look up paul sellers on U tube.
Its very simple. Burnerman has explained it well.
 
When you release the brass screw the cap iron slides up and down.
Look up paul sellers on U tube.
Its very simple. Burnerman has explained it well.
And you want 2 mm between the tip of sharp edge and top of other bit?
 
Looking at the blade and cap iron assembly - the items on the left of your picture - they are held together by a large screw.....you can see the thread but not the head which is on the other side. Undo the screw and the items will part.
After sharpening, set the supporting cap iron just back from the blade edge (2mm or slightly less) and retighten the screw. This forms the shaving 'curl' as the plane is used.
The other large screw on the plane body itself adjusts the pressure on the blade assembly.....set it so you can turn the thumbwheel easily but the blade doesn't float around.
Some emery and WD would be great for cleaning your plane - a wipe afterwards soon removes it from the plane sole.
Its a nice wee smoothing plane - worth looking after!
John :)

Is this the emery cloth you were on about -

https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/c7h/5mtr-5000mm-25mm-Emery-Cloth-Roll-120Grit/B00LFW9B66


And squit the WD 40 into all moving parts?
 
The blade doesn't look to be ground square, unless its my eyes! No huge deal but set the cap iron parallel to the blade edge and then its adjusted by the lever above the thumb wheel that positions the blade.....squint down the sole to see where the blade is.
(That's easier said than done, and sharpening / honing is a skill on its own....a bit easier when you've done it all your life!)
Your emery cloth is just fine, use some WD and wipe afterwards.
John :)
 
Is it the case that when u throw your planer in your tool bag u take out of the thing which turns it left and right then pull it up as far as possible then clamp down?
 

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