setup an electric garage door opener to control lights?

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Hi all.

Im looking to install a garage door opener (probably the europro 700 from screwfix). This has a built in light that turns on from 2 minutes when you operate the unit, however I would like it to control the main garage lights as well. ...possibly two up/down lights on the front of the garage too.

What is the easiest way to achieve this ?

Thanks in advance to all
 
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There is very little information about that operator online, but many have a pair of volt free terminals that you can use as a courtesy light output. Some require an optional relay module to be purchased which attaches to the "bus" control, the relay controlling your lights.
 
Thanks for the pointers...

Are there any openers for around the £200 mark that have this sort of functionality built in? ...because that would be ideal
 
The EuroPro 700 has a 12V or 24V lamp as the courtesy light (I cannot remember which). I just tapped into the light and used a 12V/24V operated contactor in a DIN rail box to power the garage lights.
 
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A relay with a 230vac coil that is fed from the built in lamp socket
and
contacts that can handle the 'tungsten load' your extra lamps present.
Look for it on electronics' surplus sites.
 
on my dads electric door i screwed a push button switch that turned the lights on via an invertor when the door was opened with an override switch inside to turn the lights on with the door shut
this was run from a car battery via a fuse then the inverter via the push button or the overide button
 
A relay with a 230vac coil that is fed from the built in lamp socket
and
contacts that can handle the 'tungsten load' your extra lamps present.
Look for it on electronics' surplus sites.

A 230V coil only applies if the lamp has a 230v supply. As stated above, some have 12 or 24v lamps. At 50Hz, not 60Hz over here. ;)
 
A relay with a coil that matches the voltage in the opener that is fed from the built in lamp socket
and
contacts that can handle the 'tungsten load' your extra lamps present.
Look for it on electronics' surplus sites.
 
A relay with a 230vac coil that is fed from the built in lamp socket
and
contacts that can handle the 'tungsten load' your extra lamps present.
Look for it on electronics' surplus sites.

Admit it, you made a mistake. Did you think quoting yourself but with the error removed would go un-noticed.
 
I read the instructions on line and it shows a standard 20W 12V 50mm spot lamp with a plug in connector block with is rewire-able but it is unclear as to if this is on 12 volt or 230 volt side.

The instructions are not very plain mainly diagrams and it would seem that a garage would also need a side entrance to be able to use the doors. Although it states it can be opened in the case of a power cut it describes how to do this which would need you to be inside the garage so if only door a simple blown fuse you mean cutting through the door to gain assess.

So there would also be a light at the second entrance. With only a side door open one would not want the lights to go out while you were in the garage so not really a good idea to have the two lights combined.

Garamatic 7 & 9 Operator (4.87MB)
Garamatic 10 & 20 Operator (7.5MB)
 
This reminds me of the time I had to break into a garage ( at the owner's request ) when the electric up and over door wouldn't operate.

Once inside it was less than a minute's work to pull out the link pin to allow the door to be opened manually.

Within days several garages in the road had workmen fitting back doors to the garages.
 
Many operators come with a lock barrel you drill into the door itself at high level, or the top frame. The lock barrel has a length of steel wire which travels upto the link pin. You unlock the barrel, pull it towards you until you see the steel wire, and then keep pulling the steel wire until taught, then tug. Door can then be opened manually.

It is a weak point in the system though - Holesaw around the lock barrel and your in.

Those instructions are not for the model in the OP, but are by the same manufacturer, so you would hope similar. I think the Screwfix version is likely a more budget "retail" version.
 
I have not looked as to how my father-in-laws was altered but it was altered as the up and over door is only access and the consumer unit is inside the garage.

As to security the number of times I go to my car parked in his drive and find the door open I have lost count. As to why I don't know maybe my amateur radio but it was never left open when it was manual. Never worked out did he forget to close or did it re-open. He has one remote in car the other in house so presses house remote after he has parked car and left the garage. So maybe it just failed to communicate when he pressed close!

The advantage is the wind does not move the door when open. With manual the wind could partly close door and damage the car when he had backed it partly out to make assess room.
 
A relay with a 230vac coil that is fed from the built in lamp socket
and
contacts that can handle the 'tungsten load' your extra lamps present.
Look for it on electronics' surplus sites.

Admit it, you made a mistake. Did you think quoting yourself but with the error removed would go un-noticed.

Bingo!

mis·take (m-stk)
n.
1. An error or fault resulting from defective judgment, deficient knowledge, or carelessness.
2. A misconception or misunderstanding.
v. mis·took (m-stk), mis·tak·en (m-stkn), mis·tak·ing, mis·takes
v.tr.
1. To understand wrongly; misinterpret: mistook my politeness for friendliness.
2. To recognize or identify incorrectly: He mistook her for her sister.
v.intr.
To make a mistake; err.

I make a lot of mistakes and I look to you to help me find them! :D

But, seriously, do you think I intended to fool anyone? :cool: There's a written record for all to see. Politicians are the only ones who can make black seem white and up seem down.

To the OP, I'd use a multimeter to check for how many volts and whether it's AC or DC because this will make a difference if you go the relay route.
There's something else. If you go with CFLs and they don't have a soft-start feature the relay contacts may fail soon because they are switching a capacitive load and this may be worse than a resistive, motor or tungsten load.
 

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