Shed Project

[voicey]

I'm building a shed in my patio garden. I've never done anything like this before so thought I'd bounce some ideas off you guys. I'll also update the thread with photos as I go along so others can benefit from the advice dispensed to me.

I've looked at bigall's photos of his shed and I'd like to end up with something just as nice.

I completed the base yesterday. I dug out a lot of earth, wacked down 50mm of Type 1 followed by 50mm of sharp sand. This was then screeded over with a thin layer of sand before 600x600x50mm slabs were laid, edged with paving bricks. The edges were pointed in and the gaps filled with kiln dried sand. I'm very pleased with the result and am slightly disappointed to be covering it up with a shed!

I was planning on using 3x2 timbers for the frame spaced at 600mm. Is it OK to only use treated timbers for the base and untreated ones for the frame inside?

I was going to use treated shiplap for the outside, except where the shed will be against the boundary walls (the existing trellis and foliage will be going). Where the shed sits against the wall I was going to use a DPM. Would this be OK?

Once the shed is up I'm not going to have much access to the shiplap that will be atop the two sides above the walls. Is there anything I can put on top of the treatment to make it last longer?

The garden is very small and the shed will take up about 10% of the space. In order to reduce the visual impact I was going to install the door across the corner. What sort of size opening should I go for?

What sort of roof angle should I be aiming for? I was going to make the rearmost side 2100mm high and would like the front to be as close to that as possible.

Any problems with using bitumen shingles for the roof?

What thickness exterior ply should I use for the roof/floor?

Sorry for all the questions but I'd like to get it right first time!

Cheers....

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• voicey
• 25 Aug 2012
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• voicey
• 25 Aug 2012
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• voicey
• 25 Aug 2012
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• voicey
• 25 Aug 2012
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• voicey
• 25 Aug 2012
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• voicey
• 25 Aug 2012
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[foxhole]

I would not loose the corner for aesthetics, just put the door on the end .You don't have much space why waste it.

 

[big-all]

if you dont have access definatly use treated if its aired but protected from the the weather then add treatment times 2 before assembly and treat as far as you can [arms length] when you treat the rest

2ft centers are ok but a minimum 18mm flooring
any other questions please ask

 

[voicey]

Thanks for the replies.

I'm going to lose the cut off corner - it'll look rubbish and be a pain the arris to fabricate. I'm also going to go with felt on the roof as shingles are not suitable for the low pitch I'm going for.

I'll sketch up some plans that'll allow me to determine how much timber I'll need.

I'll report back soon!

 

[big-all]

remember sheet materials are in feet other materials are in metric so you loose 5mm a foot
do not buy your timber from the diy sheds buy it from your local woodyard

5" txg shiplap is cheaper per square metre off coverage over 6"
5" covers around 109mm so just over 9 m in length [9.2]will cover a sqm

the most economical is to plan full plank widths as off cuts have little use and are wasted

find out from your woodyard what lengths they do and workout the most economic way to use it i have no planks joined anywhere on the shed
i positioned the 2 small windows in the corner to help use up some off the shorter offcuts

 

[voicey]

Thanks bigall. I was going to buy some perspex for the window but how do I go about framing it?

 

[big-all]

i used 4" chamfered skirting[96mm] 3mm groove underneath 6mm from the front edge 4x1" treated up each side to give the cladding something to finish up to protect the end grain

if the top off the window is exposed then duplicate the bottom if not the same as the sides
affix a 12mm minimum baton around the opening making sure its on the point on the skirting where the angle starts to shed the water

 

[voicey]

i used 4" chamfered skirting[96mm] 3mm groove underneath 6mm from the front edge 4x1" treated up each side to give the cladding something to finish up to protect the end grain

if the top off the window is exposed then duplicate the bottom if not the same as the sides
affix a 12mm minimum baton around the opening making sure its on the point on the skirting where the angle starts to shed the water

Please don't take this the wrong way but that made as much sense as my 1 year old daughter! I'm an accountant so am not up to speed with all the DIY lingo. Do you have a picture so I can visualise it?

Cheers!

 

[big-all]

this on the bottom off the window to shed the water
http://www.everythingskirting.com/shop.php?sec=prod&prod=103

towards the pointy end underneath you have a groove so any water that rolls underneath falls off

if you look on this image you can see the skirting below and above the window to direct falling water away from the window or the wall underneath

 

[voicey]

this on the bottom off the window to shed the water
http://www.everythingskirting.com/shop.php?sec=prod&prod=103

towards the pointy end underneath you have a groove so any water that rolls underneath falls off

if you look on this image you can see the skirting below and above the window to direct falling water away from the window or the wall underneath

Understood - thank you for the comprehensive reply!

 

[ban-all-sheds]

http://www.warwickbuildings.co.uk/

 

[voicey]

http://www.warwickbuildings.co.uk/

Very funny! Timber is arriving tomorrow so this weekend will be the moment of truth...

 

[voicey]

Timber arrived - it was a little damp so I've stood it up in the sun to try and dry it out as much as possible.

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• voicey
• 31 Aug 2012
• 1

I borrowed a mitre saw from the FiL - it's a lovely bit of kit and going to save me a lot of trouble with the hand saw.

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• voicey
• 31 Aug 2012
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Cut ends are soaked in clear wood preserver.

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• voicey
• 31 Aug 2012
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I managed to make the base - 2x3 treated timber at 600mm centres.

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• voicey
• 31 Aug 2012
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One question - I've measure all of my shiplap as shown. All pieces measure between 109mm and 111mm. Does this mean it is damp and needs to be packed together or dry and spaced apart?

Cheers!

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• voicey
• 31 Aug 2012
• 1

 

[big-all]

107mm need 2mm spacers 109 spot on 111as tight as you can get it

you need all timbers off the floor or risk problems later

only one fixing per board bottom 25%

 

[voicey]

Thanks bigall.

When you say I need "all timbers off the floor" do you mean the base too?!