should I PVA walls for dot&dab? / £300 to plaster kitche

S

snadge

no i was asking if you was boarding over it or scrapeing it back and just skimming the wall, trust me ive bin doin this long enuff to know my job.
so just out of interest how comes your dot and dabbin all the walls why dnt you just scrape off all the crap bond the chases and skim the exsisting saves you buying so many boards and adhesive and paying for someone to put them up. if your plasterers any good hell get a good finish on practically anything. obviously you still have to board the stud walls and round the window also the more solid you r walls are the more chance of getting a nice fixing for your units youll have.

cos scraping off the artex is a pain the arse and hellish job so boarding over is easier and cheaper than having to pay a plasterer twice as much money to plaster twice (bonding then finish on top) - he'' be wanting £600 for that!!! :LOL:

I asked him when he was here about that and he said it IS cheaper to just board over... cos u need to skim bonding on and then the finish coat - twice as much work / twice as much money - the boards were only £50.. couple o bags of dab on top...

i see what you mean about the hold for units - i may consider it on that wall
 
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he only has to scrape of the high spots it dnt look that bad ive scraped off worse before just lay on two thick coats itll be good to go and wnt cost you more and cheaper on materials
 
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I thought I posted this around 18:30 but but apparently not :rolleyes:
You NEED a sparky, not a spread, lots of cables out of prescribed zones :eek: :eek:
You right, didn’t even notice that lot; some of that would definitely not pass inspection. A Kitchen is classed as a special location & to do ANY electrical work in there requires either a Building Notice Submission for DIY or it must be done by a Part P qualified spark who will test & certify it as compliant. No compliance cert when you come to sell could be a problem & it could also invalidate your house insurance in the event of a problem.

About 2 years ago I was working near Slough and a self taught plasterer was charging £20 p/m inc materials.
I know Slough is an expensive area but that’s an astronomical rate; it’s even higher than mine.

All sorts going on here by the look of it which I'm not even going to attempt reading tonight; I'm too ****ed :LOL:
 
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and if you going to start insulating it you need to look at not only the permitted safe zones of cables, but also the derating factor of the circuits!
 
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Is that stud wall as thin as it looks?
 
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if you dab boards onto that artex wall your going to fetch it out past your skirting and youll need to bring out the front of your socket/switch.. also loose an inch off your room.. be better off skimming over it?
 
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If you were my mate and you had done me the favour of sorting my computers then I would return the favour by doing the job cheaper than normal.

If it just needs skimming once you have boarded it then I would get it done in a day and charge £120.

Its on board so it will be easier to skim and if its the kitchen then you dont need to over do it where the units are going.
 
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i thought the £300 was to board as well, so £300 is to much to pay for a skim of a kitchen that size, i would ask for £150, and if like you say you've done them favours with pcs then you should get it cheaper, i too used to fix friends pcs and know how much of a headache that can be espec when they expect u to do it for nothing, clearly this spread is not returning the favour and you should mention the pcs youve sorted out for him,and that the next time his pc breaks down you will charge him a higher rate, or not even bother at all
 
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I'm not a professional plasterer, but I agree you are creating unnecessary work for yourself by dabbing out the walls, I would just dab out the walls around the window, where the brickwork is exposed, bondin your chases and then skim the lot after scraping off any loose or protruding tile adhesive or artex.
Even as a self taught plasterer I would skim that room in a day
 
S

snadge

illdo it for £150 and ill board it too

are you local? hehe - Blaydon, Newcastle Upon Tyne

i been qouted £180 to skim - this is the FIRST plasterer we phoned form a list of 4 locals...

so I was right to turn down the £300 offer, i knew it was top notch for such little skimming area

We dont have the money to pay plasterer TWICE as much to bond then skim - hence the boarding is cheaper and good enough - im put PLENTY of adhesive on...plenty! - and where the cupboards will be hanging im just putting a single row of adhesive so its fixing into solids - the single stud wall ive put noggins in to catch the cupboards fixings... so all is well - iv managed to but the boards up tight (about 5-8ml gap which i think is good considering the walls arent level and flat)) - its easy peasy and quite enjoyed it - i was amazed at how much suction the adhesive has immediatley - solid stuff like.... made myself a 'darby' from flooring offcuts :)

Is that stud wall as thin as it looks?
lf the lengths of timber, lent againts the wall are anything to go by, I would say yes, not much more than 25/30 mm!

mmm - the studwall is just as it was ..60mm

he only has to scrape of the high spots it dnt look that bad ive scraped off worse before just lay on two thick coats itll be good to go and wnt cost you more and cheaper on materials

believe me there BAD you CAN NOT skim 1 layer of finish plaster on to those walls - if you could it would have been done... multiple layers means twice/thrice the price (hey that rhymed hehe)

I thought I posted this around 18:30 but but apparently not :rolleyes:
You NEED a sparky, not a spread, lots of cables out of prescribed zones :eek: :eek:
You right, didn’t even notice that lot; some of that would definitely not pass inspection. A Kitchen is classed as a special location & to do ANY electrical work in there requires either a Building Notice Submission for DIY or it must be done by a Part P qualified spark who will test & certify it as compliant. No compliance cert when you come to sell could be a problem & it could also invalidate your house insurance in the event of a problem.

unfortunately we dont have any money that is why its taking so long to do this kitchen, so just had to make do - that 'mess' was there when we took boards off - ive tidied it best i can since by arrange cables so theyre only above, below or left/right of sockets and not running off - cabling on solid walls I have put steel trunking in aswell for extra protection, the cooker cable and fuse was powering one of the double sockets (and the cable was running diaganol through wall into it) with cardboard trunking?? and junction boxes chased in... all i done was tidied it up as best i could - it was already illegal and sold to us in that manner so I cant see why we can sell it on in better state but not signed off
- we are aware of the risks , so no more going on about it please, if you dont mind me asking.
P.S. -> i would like to especially thank the members who helped me with some of that
 
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fair enough just so you know i always 2 coat in my mind 1 coat is half a job and it doesnt take me any longer really still be able to skim that room in a day, but you have gone the down the route that makes you happy so good luck and hope everything goes to plan
 
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P.S. -> i would like to especially thank the members who helped me with some of that
I take it that doesn’t include those that pointed out the very dangerous & potentially illegal electrical install you’ve got there then ;) ; but I suppose if you didn’t do it, it makes it OK to just leave it as is & cover it all up again :rolleyes:
 

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