Shower heat recovery devices/combi boilers

Because waste water is typically flowing then its very difficult to get much heat out of it.

If space and cost was of no consequence then it could run through a holding tank from which heat could be extracted.

But the most efficient way to extract heat would be by using a heat pump. But that's relatively expensive. However the advantage is that heat could be extracted down to about 5 C.

Its usually forgotten that domestic waste water from washing machines and dishwashers is in a ratio of about 4:1 of cold to hot. So the average waste temperature is only about 20 C or less.

But anyone who already has a ground source heat pump could usefully consider using waste water heat recovery.

Tony
 
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The fact it might be heated and not used is irrelevant, the heat losses from a modern cylinder are a few pence per day.

That's reassuring, I suppose I'm accustomed to combi's these days and my memories of hot water tanks are back when I was a kid and the roasting hot airing cupboard with the red insulation jacket around the cylinder which was far removed from what's available these days.

Final question, rather than starting a new thread, how many showers will a decent domestic unvented cylinder supply at once given adequate flow and pressure from the mains and pipework within the property? Will this cope with 3 at once? 4 even should I add an additional en suite?
 
Will this cope with 3 at once? 4 even should I add an additional en suite?
All depends on the flow available, which really should be measured before any choices are made about the system installed.

If the incoming main can supply 20 litres per minute, then theoretically you have two showers with 10 litres/min or 3 with about 6 litres/min.
In reality it may be less as there will be losses due to the resistance of pipework etc.

However the same limitation applies regardless of how the water is heated, as the combi & electric shower would all be connected to the same cold water supply.
 
I'm going to upgrade the supply pipe to the house as it's currently lead and it won't cost a fortune, especially as the house fronts onto the pavement. I was going to go with 25mm supply, but maybe 32mm would be a better option. The house is to be gutted so I can run 28mm (is there a practical larger size?) pipe in to the boiler and cylinder, the 3 showers are all within 3 meters of where the boiler and cylinder will be. Current pressure and flow are good with the old supply pipe and 15mm pipe internally. Assuming there is sufficient pressure for an unvented (I'll get this checked in the very near future), and there will be decent flow with the new supply, what sort of litres per minute can I expect? 20 litres a minute doesn't sound very impressive tbh, barely enough for 3 showers and not that great for 2 even. Will upgrading the supply and having a good size pipe internally provide a better flow given that the pressure is decent atm?
 
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Only your water supply provider can give you the answer to that question. Static pressure will be consistent, the $6M question is what flow rate can they warrant?
 
If the incoming main can supply 20 litres per minute, then theoretically you have two showers with 10 litres/min or 3 with about 6 litres/min.

Are you psychic? Just measured the current flow rate and it's 20.5 litres per minute (filled a 12 litre bucket in 35 seconds). Also tested the pressure using a basic mains tester gauge, which gave a reading that settled at about 4.8 bar. It would drop down to 3 when I flushed a toilet that is on the supply pipe before the gauge, but as soon as that stopped filling it shot back up to over 5 before settling back a touch.

From simond's last post I suspect that I have just measured the static pressure, but his post also makes me think that simply increasing the size of the pipe won't automatically increase the flow rate, but should I be optimistic that a new supply pipe and 28mm pipe to the boiler and tank will improve the flow?

Thanks again as always.
 
You say your old pipe is lead? It might be half-inch or even 3/8"
It may be kinked or squashed. I am not a plumber but replaced one and got a fantastic improvement.

Ask your water co. to test the drinking water for lead content, you might get a lead replacement subsidy. Depending where you are they might replace their side of the boundary when you replace yours, which will make the connection easier and cheaper. They will want to inspect the depth of your trench before you backfill. Ask at once as it must be completed before you start work, and they can be very slow. You need not follow the same route for your new pipe.

Get full-bore stopcocks for best results. They are more expensive, so some people fit little ones.
 
ok my thruppens worth
50% may be possible on that size shown with nearly stagnant water at maximum heat near boiling against near freezing water i would suspect if you had a heat exchanger about a room size then it can cope with a shower and pass on nearer 50%
i would suspect you may get between 2 and 5% transfer on that size so the pay back will be many many years

think off fire eaters or walking on hot coals the actions are so quick that heat transfer is minimum
 
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Are you psychic? Just measured the current flow rate and it's 20.5 litres per minute (filled a 12 litre bucket in 35 seconds). Also tested the pressure using a basic mains tester gauge, which gave a reading that settled at about 4.8 bar. It would drop down to 3 when I flushed a toilet that is on the supply pipe before the gauge, but as soon as that stopped filling it shot back up to over 5 before settling back a touch.


Thanks again as always.

Why is it so difficult for people to understand that an open pipe flow rate is not what you want for a shower?

The shower needs pressure to force the water out of the holes at considerable speed.

Most showers need 1.0 bar of pressure to work well.

So you need to measure the flow rate whilst leaving about 1.0 bar in the pipework.

I call this the dynamic flow rate and to get a basic good performance from an unvented cylinder you really need a minimum of 22 litres @1.0 bar.

Tony
 
Hi there,

Disclosure first. I am a professional engineer in Ontario, Canada and have a master's degree in engineering here. My specialties are alternative energy systems, heating ventilation and air conditioning and hot water systems. I am also the inventor of the Power-Pipe Drain (Waste) Water Heat Recovery Technology. We now have well over 60,000 Power-Pipes installed and saving energy every day in homes, flats and in some commercial and industrial applications.

Original Question: will a properly designed/made Waste Water Heat Recovery (WWHR in the UK) “boost a combi’s DHW supply sufficiently to cope with 2 decent showers at once?”
Yes, absolutely and certainly in your case. Of course this depends upon the efficiency of the WWHR unit at the total flowrate, your combi boiler’s capacity and how it is installed. Basically, with a 55-60% rated WWHR unit you can generally expect a doubling of effective hot water capacity. Many WWHR devices have been installed to solve the problem of insufficient capacity with on demand water heaters, for example.

Contrary to Dan Robinson’s reply, WWHR is not snake oil. It is proven and well established (in some places) technology. In fact, the AIMC4 Project in the UK found the hot water savings to be 35% and 41% in two different homes with a Power-Pipe R3-84 (not the most cost effective model but it forms part of the main soil stack). At a 2011 AIMC4 meeting in BRE Watford offices I informed the 60+ attendees that I expected that model would save 35% to 40% of the hot water load. They thought I was crazy. However, this was based upon over a decade of experience and monitoring at the time. The current SAP (UK building energy credit) calculations have 7 errors, which result in only about half the SAP credit that WWHR devices should receive. Our industry has been trying to get this fixed for almost 2 years. The AIMC4 project report demonstrates this gap. I have included the core pages from the AIMC4 report. You can also download it at: http://www.aimc4.com/filelibrary/files/AIMC4-Briefing-Paper-5_final.pdf

Contrary to bernardgreen’s comment, waste water actually clings to the inner wall as it fall down a waste pipe because of “surface tension”. The quicker it falls, the better the heat transfer, because the film of waste water becomes very thin so there is less resistance for heat to flow to the inner wall. In fact, a University of Waterloo professor found that the heat transfer rate in the falling film is higher than through copper! Slowing the film down somehow will actually decrease the heat transfer rate.

Also, using a tank, as described by bernardgreen, with a WWHR domestic device is a bad idea (we do that for some industrial applications) because you don't get the counter flow and do not have the high heat transfer rates. However, keep in mind that a falling film WWHR device primarily captures heat energy from the shower, which is the main load in homes. Most falling film WWHR devices are very efficient, perfectly safe, maintenance-free, passive and have a very long life making them quite practical.

For highest energy savings and ease of installation we normally recommend that all the fresh water in the home be plumbed through the WWHR device, except the kitchen sink. The WWHR device does not hold the water at any temperature so the water will fall back to room temperature (like all the lines in the home) when not in use. It can and usually does recapture some heat from other fixtures, if they are plumbed to it, but we are primarily interested in getting the waste water from the shower(s) and plumbing to both the cold side of the shower and to the water heater/cylinder. All the water in my home runs through my Power-Pipe and, honestly, it is not a problem. It even takes the cold edge off the water so we usually wash our hands with the cold water line (actually tempered water from the Power-Pipe).

endecotp, WWHR devices will certainly supply the capacity that buffster is interested in if:
-the water heater / cylinder is not already very marginally supplying the one shower
-an very inefficient WWHR device is not installed (be above 40%, but depends upon the water heater)
and/or
-it is not installed for equal flow as described above

endcotp has mentioned the Recoup units (models we’ve seen) are relatively efficient. The Recoup units we have seen are partly made of drain plastic and the double wall is not actually externally vented so if there is ever a leak between the walls you wouldn't know it. Furthermore, the inner copper wall thickness does not confirm with British standards for a 2” (54mm) pressurized line (which it is on the external). WRAS approval doesn’t deal with these points. The other models mentioned are all solid examples of WWHR technology. All are falling film and vented, maintenance free and should have a very long life.


It does not make economic sense to combine a WWHR device with a heat pump in a home. There is some interest in doing this for large apartment buildings and hotels.

I might come back with more comments. I do agree also that having a good lower flow shower head is also important for reducing energy consumption and increasing capacity.

Respectfully,
-Gerald Van Decker
 

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I suggest running your shower 24/7 and using the waste heat to BOOST your gas bill.
It took a bit of thinking about but we got there in the end.
Jeff
 
Hi there,

Disclosure first. I am a professional engineer in Ontario, Canada and have a master's degree in engineering here. My specialties are alternative energy systems, heating ventilation and air conditioning and hot water systems. I am also the inventor of the Power-Pipe Drain (Waste) Water Heat Recovery Technology. We now have well over 60,000 Power-Pipes installed and saving energy every day in homes, flats and in some commercial and industrial applications.

Original Question: will a properly designed/made Waste Water Heat Recovery (WWHR in the UK) “boost a combi’s DHW supply sufficiently to cope with 2 decent showers at once?”
Yes, absolutely and certainly in your case. Of course this depends upon the efficiency of the WWHR unit at the total flowrate, your combi boiler’s capacity and how it is installed. Basically, with a 55-60% rated WWHR unit you can generally expect a doubling of effective hot water capacity. Many WWHR devices have been installed to solve the problem of insufficient capacity with on demand water heaters, for example.

Contrary to Dan Robinson’s reply, WWHR is not snake oil. It is proven and well established (in some places) technology. In fact, the AIMC4 Project in the UK found the hot water savings to be 35% and 41% in two different homes with a Power-Pipe R3-84 (not the most cost effective model but it forms part of the main soil stack). At a 2011 AIMC4 meeting in BRE Watford offices I informed the 60+ attendees that I expected that model would save 35% to 40% of the hot water load. They thought I was crazy. However, this was based upon over a decade of experience and monitoring at the time. The current SAP (UK building energy credit) calculations have 7 errors, which result in only about half the SAP credit that WWHR devices should receive. Our industry has been trying to get this fixed for almost 2 years. The AIMC4 project report demonstrates this gap. I have included the core pages from the AIMC4 report. You can also download it at: http://www.aimc4.com/filelibrary/files/AIMC4-Briefing-Paper-5_final.pdf

Contrary to bernardgreen’s comment, waste water actually clings to the inner wall as it fall down a waste pipe because of “surface tension”. The quicker it falls, the better the heat transfer, because the film of waste water becomes very thin so there is less resistance for heat to flow to the inner wall. In fact, a University of Waterloo professor found that the heat transfer rate in the falling film is higher than through copper! Slowing the film down somehow will actually decrease the heat transfer rate.

Also, using a tank, as described by bernardgreen, with a WWHR domestic device is a bad idea (we do that for some industrial applications) because you don't get the counter flow and do not have the high heat transfer rates. However, keep in mind that a falling film WWHR device primarily captures heat energy from the shower, which is the main load in homes. Most falling film WWHR devices are very efficient, perfectly safe, maintenance-free, passive and have a very long life making them quite practical.

For highest energy savings and ease of installation we normally recommend that all the fresh water in the home be plumbed through the WWHR device, except the kitchen sink. The WWHR device does not hold the water at any temperature so the water will fall back to room temperature (like all the lines in the home) when not in use. It can and usually does recapture some heat from other fixtures, if they are plumbed to it, but we are primarily interested in getting the waste water from the shower(s) and plumbing to both the cold side of the shower and to the water heater/cylinder. All the water in my home runs through my Power-Pipe and, honestly, it is not a problem. It even takes the cold edge off the water so we usually wash our hands with the cold water line (actually tempered water from the Power-Pipe).

endecotp, WWHR devices will certainly supply the capacity that buffster is interested in if:
-the water heater / cylinder is not already very marginally supplying the one shower
-an very inefficient WWHR device is not installed (be above 40%, but depends upon the water heater)
and/or
-it is not installed for equal flow as described above

endcotp has mentioned the Recoup units (models we’ve seen) are relatively efficient. The Recoup units we have seen are partly made of drain plastic and the double wall is not actually externally vented so if there is ever a leak between the walls you wouldn't know it. Furthermore, the inner copper wall thickness does not confirm with British standards for a 2” (54mm) pressurized line (which it is on the external). WRAS approval doesn’t deal with these points. The other models mentioned are all solid examples of WWHR technology. All are falling film and vented, maintenance free and should have a very long life.


It does not make economic sense to combine a WWHR device with a heat pump in a home. There is some interest in doing this for large apartment buildings and hotels.

I might come back with more comments. I do agree also that having a good lower flow shower head is also important for reducing energy consumption and increasing capacity.

Respectfully,
-Gerald Van Decker
Didn't we used to go dogging together Gerald?
 
Redrow homes fit showersave to their properties in the North West region, how successful they are I have no idea.

Fitting Recoup units on a Barratt site also, which is linked to the cold water supply to the shower mixer. I've also fitted them in social housing sites.

As said it must be a SAP ratings thing.

I think I'd be rapping 10mm copper tube twice around 42mm copper tube & make my own.

Perhaps Randy Van Warmer could please confirm if there's any legionella risk from these units??
 
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Because waste water is typically flowing then its very difficult to get much heat out of it.

If space and cost was of no consequence then it could run through a holding tank from which heat could be extracted.

But the most efficient way to extract heat would be by using a heat pump. But that's relatively expensive. However the advantage is that heat could be extracted down to about 5 C.

Its usually forgotten that domestic waste water from washing machines and dishwashers is in a ratio of about 4:1 of cold to hot. So the average waste temperature is only about 20 C or less.

But anyone who already has a ground source heat pump could usefully consider using waste water heat recovery.

Tony

For heat recovery via a heat pump Tony, I think you'll find with the amount of warm waste water produced by the average UK home, it's like farting at thunder. Just not enough volume.
 

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