Shower Problem, Urgent reply needed please!! Thx

[johnboy09]

I have a triton trance shower thats playin me up!

I switch the isolation switch on and the little red light comes on just fine.

I then go to press the power switch for the shower and the little red light goes off! and nothin happens!

No trip, no nothin! HELP !

 

[Chri5]

Without running you a synopsis of the first few years doing a sparks apprenticeship I would suggest you seek the service of a visit from an electrician.

There's no DIY fix to your problem and water + power isn't a combination that you should mess with for the safety of both you and your family.

The neon indicator unless the fuse trips or you 'off' the shower isolator switch or pull cord should remain on.

Maybe a fault such as wet ingress or failed equipment might (very might) put a leak voltage back to the neon to cause the off neon problem, but I doubt that.

Likely to be a shower fault, but either way the fact that the electrical circuit isn't doing what it should means some electrical investigation on site is required.

A discon of the shower unit and a full electrical circuit test, if clear and the problem repeats itself when reconnected the shower unit has failed.

 

[seco services]

loose connection in the pullcord/switch.

 

[Goldberg]

Without running you a synopsis of the first few years doing a sparks apprenticeship I would suggest you seek the service of a visit from an electrician.

You're on the wrong forum - this is where people who know things give advice and help to people who don't.

Maybe a fault such as wet ingress or failed equipment might (very might) put a leak voltage back to the neon to cause the off neon problem, but I doubt that.

I don't think you work on many electric showers.

A discon of the shower unit and a full electrical circuit test, if clear and the problem repeats itself when reconnected the shower unit has failed.

Frankly that's ridiculous. The first step is inspection, not a full test.

seco's first gambit is likely to be correct - the most common cause of loss of power under load is a termination problem, either inside the shower or at the pull-cord switch.

 

[spark1]

John boy ,be prepared to buy a new pullcord switch.
..If you do the job yourself ensure you tightien the connections with a BIG screwdriver and pay particulat attention to the P.E connections [Eath wires]

 

[johnboy09]

John boy ,be prepared to buy a new pullcord switch.
..If you do the job yourself ensure you tightien the connections with a BIG screwdriver and pay particulat attention to the P.E connections [Eath wires]

I did replace the isolation switch, 18 months ago, has been workin fine till now. Shower is also only 18 months old. Mind you the wires were blackened when I replaced the switch, I will cut them back and see how that goes, Thanks guys

 

[seco services]

you'll more likely be buying another new switch then.

 

[sparkyspike]

Look at the neon closely (in the dark). Does it go out completely or does it just go very dim?

I'm thinking it could be a loose connection in the switch and/or shower, or a fault inside the shower.

Normally a fault inside the shower would cause an RCD or MCB to trip, or an internal device such as a thermal cut-out to operate. If this happened, your neon light should be steady on.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

I did replace the isolation switch, 18 months ago, has been workin fine till now.

How often in the past 18 months have you checked the tightness of the connections?

Mind you the wires were blackened when I replaced the switch

And you did nothing about that?

What size is the cable, and what rating is the shower?

 

[seco services]

Normally a fault inside the shower would cause an RCD or MCB to trip, or an internal device such as a thermal cut-out to operate. If this happened, your neon light should be steady on.

a electrical fault won't cause a tco to operate only heat trips a tco.

 

[Steve]

and pay particulat attention to the P.E connections [Eath wires]

Why?

IMO he should pay closer attention to the neutrals, since they always melt. Never seen a melted earth in a shower switch.

 

[bernardgreen]

a electrical fault won't cause a tco to operate only heat trips a tco.

If the flow or pressure switch or its wiring is faulty and saying there is adequate water flowing when there isn't then the heating element will over heat and the thermal cut out should operate.

 

[seco services]

a fault in water flow yes can cause overheat and the tco will operate.

thats a water flow issue nothing todo with an electrical fault tripping rcd's or mcb's or tco's.

next

 

[johnboy09]

What size is the cable, and what rating is the shower?[/quote]

It's an 9.5kw shower and the cable is 10mm.


Look at the neon closely (in the dark). Does it go out completely or does it just go very dim?[/quote]

The neon goes out completely.

you'll more likely be buying another new switch then[/quote]

I'll get a new switch tomorrow then and see how that goes! Watch this space! lol

 

[spark1]

and pay particulat attention to the P.E connections [Eath wires]

Why?

IMO he should pay closer attention to the neutrals, since they always melt. Never seen a melted earth in a shower switch.

Steve, you got the wrong end of the stick there--so to speak-
The reference to paying particular attention to the Earth connection was in relation to the necessity to ensure its continuity from the switch to the Shower unit. It is something I am always careful of when wiring Shower switches in particular..I tend to twist them together ,if possible ,and enter them into the same teminal on the switch as opposed to using the seperate ones. Loop testing at the Shower does always follow to verify the continuity.
..As regards to your other point about the Neutral always being the one to burn..Yes I have found this to be the case also....I have never heard any definative explanation as to why this is , have you any thoughts on this yourself.