SHOWER PUMP 22MM to 15MM COLD WATER FEED

Discussion in 'Plumbing and Central Heating' started by zanderol24, 2 Jul 2010.

  1. zanderol24

    zanderol24

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    HI one question, can i take tank cold water feed piping at 22mm and reduce to 15mm near the pump? the distance is about 2.5 metres before a drop into the pump (not yet installed) or should a just have 15mm all the way? tank connector and full bore ball valve? is there a benefit to 22mm and reducing into a 15mm pump inlet? im a complete beginner so dont abuse me please. thanks
     
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  3. HERTS P&D

    HERTS P&D

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    What is the pump for?

    Have you put in a second supply for the pump?

    Andy
     
  4. zanderol24

    zanderol24

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    i have not done anything, my plan is to drill a hole into the cw tank, but i would like to know what flow (size 22mm or 15mm) the feed is for a salamander ct75+ shower. im planning on using push fit. i am thinking of using a surrey flange from the hwc. thanks for ur reply mate
     
  5. BournemouthPlumber

    BournemouthPlumber

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    You need to use a 22mm pipes for both hot and cold feeds to the pump and then reduce down from 22 to 15 just before the flexi connector on the pump.

    Surrey flange is a good idea for hot. Salamanders preferred method i believe

    :LOL:
     
  6. zanderol24

    zanderol24

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    Is a full bore ball valve recommended? Any other tip b4 hand ? And thank you . Is the reducing at that point a tested method? What distance shall a reduce at? A foot? less. Thank so much
     
  7. BournemouthPlumber

    BournemouthPlumber

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    Reduce as close to the flexi's (that comes with the pump) as possible.

    I think that the CT75+ comes with isolators built into the flexi's - see here:

    http://www.screwfix.com/prods/70280...P&gclid=CP3w4-DlzaICFQIB4wodqkAAxg&source=aw#

    Your outlets from the pump to the shower can be in 15mm, no need to take it back up to 22mm.

    In terms of tips, its all pretty straight forward, just make sure that when you re-fill the system, make sure you allow the water to run through the pump first and bleed all the air out before connecting the outlet flexi pipes back up to the pipework to the shower. - All done without the electrics switched of course and very easy to do since you have built in isolators on the flexi's

    If you have any air in the pump when you switch it up it is unlikely to function properly.
     
  8. zanderol24

    zanderol24

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    Brill. Is the full bore ball valve worthwhile? Cheers dude
     
  9. Fluffster

    Fluffster

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    A gate valve is a good idea as they run full bore and are designed for gravity feeds.

    Pete
     
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  11. zanderol24

    zanderol24

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    Ok. Can I make either of the valves fit with push fit piping? Thanks
     
  12. zanderol24

    zanderol24

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  13. Fluffster

    Fluffster

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    Yes they come in compression so you just need to insert a pipe liner then the nut and olive on the plastic pipe.

    The pipe is not push fit the fittings are as plastic pipe can be used on compression and pushfit joints.

    Pete
     
  14. zanderol24

    zanderol24

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  15. zanderol24

    zanderol24

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    Sorry im a bit confused so I can use plastic piping with a brass valve? And push futtings all around ??Cheers
     
  16. BournemouthPlumber

    BournemouthPlumber

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    Why do you want to add in further isolation valves when there are already isolation valves built into the flexible connectors as I said above - or am i missing something?
    :rolleyes:
     
  17. zanderol24

    zanderol24

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    so I don't need to isolate at the tank? sorry about this I'm clueless.
     
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