shower pump flange options for male thread on cylinder?

[tgs166507]

Hi.

Before I go ordering, does anyone know of any other top entry flange options other than the danzey flange or york flange for a 1" BSP male thread on the top of a hot water cylinder?

http://www.bes.co.uk/products/104.asp

What's the difference between the two? ideally i would have the ability to point the horizontal outlet where I want it...

I'm not confident to install an essex flange, hence only really considering the top entry options.

Thank you in advance for your advice.

 

[dreadnoughtheating]

Are you quite sure you have a 'male' thread on the top of your cylinder? (all the domestic cylinders I have fitted in 36 years have had a female thread on the top of the dome...)

There are other ways of safely drawing water from the safety open vent without drawing air in. Most shower manufacturers detail these in the installation manuals. (unless its a cheap 'chin&y' import from queue&buy)

Dreadnought

 

[tgs166507]

thanks dreadnaught, yup, it's a male thread. I undid the top 'nut' earlier when I had the cold tanks emptied, and it looked essentially like a compression fitting - male thread on the tank, and a nut on the top.

i'm looking to fit a decent pump... something like a 2bar monsoon universal.

i've seen a draw-off taken from an inclined outlet pipe from the top of the cylinder, before the vent. Is this a better way to go? i'd need to rework the draw off from the hot water cylinder, as it's pretty horizontal at the moment.

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

it looked essentially like a compression fitting - male thread on the tank, and a nut on the top.

Could well be a 1" Male iron to copper such as: http://www.screwfix.com/p/male-coupler-22mm-x-1/61955 Screwed tightly into the female thread on the top of the cylinder it may appear to be part of the cylinder. In (too many) years, i've not seen a cylinder with male threads on the top of the dome either!

 

[dreadnoughtheating]

Is your cylinder copper or stainless steel, (the stainless ones come with compression fittings ready for pipework)

You really would struggle to fit an essex flange....

The open vent pipe would need to be angled at 45 ° from the cylinder - instead f horizontally, with the tee piece facing perpendicular (downwards) so allowing air to exit along the 'top' of the pipe, and so less likely to be drawn into pipework to the pump.

As siad, most pump manufacturers have schematics showing this as an alternative to a flange type connection

DH

 

[tgs166507]

hopefully this will work... there's theoretically a photo on the link below...

//www.diynot.com/network/tgs166507/albums/

if it's an adaptor, it's well screwed in, below the foam insulation.

What do you recon?

 

[tgs166507]

or try this link

Untitled

• tgs166507
• 5 Jan 2013
• 1

 

[dreadnoughtheating]

Well, as the saying goes, 'everyday is a school day'. And I stand corrected, it does indeed look to be male compression fitting.

Suggest you now look at altering the draw-off/vent pipe as necessary.

I don't know if you already have low-pressure cold supply to feed cold water into the pump, but, make sure any cold water outlet connection to the cistern in the roofspace is lower than the feed to the base of the cylinder, this is to ensure that should the cistern empty (slow-filling inlet valve for example) the hot-water runs out first. Not pleasant when it goes cold under the shower, but safer than scalding anyone!

Also, most shower pump manufacturers strongly recommend 50gallon/225 litres of stored water in cisterns above, those pumps can easily shift 12 litres/min plus, and its not impossible for them to be exhausted. Also, hope you rmember to have the timeclock on to reheat the cylinder as you'll soon run out of usable hot-water if my experience is anything to go by.

DH

 

[tgs166507]

DH, Thanks for the comments, most of which i've got covered.

The one that i've sort of neglected is the feed levels from the cold water tanks. They're both at a similar level, as that's where the flatest bit of the tank is to connect a fitting.

Basically the cold water feed to the cylinder is already at the bottom of the tank.

Should I look at moving this then, up the tank? and just fitting it through the wall of the tank? or could i put a 'standpipe' within the tank?

It's a thermostatic shower valve, but should i not be relying on that?

 

[dreadnoughtheating]

As you have a grasp of why this important, there is a schematic layout here, scroll down 6 pages, http://www.tritonshowers.co.uk/media/12978/elina exposed concentric tmv2 thermosatic.pdf

Not sure just how you would raise the outlet height using a standpipe, maybe put a new connector into the side of the storage cistern and blank of the old one, and extend the pipework as needed.

DH

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

Is that the type of fitting where the tube is swaged to form an 'olive'? Not seen (or made) those since college, and that is a distant memory now.....

 

[JimCrow]

Is that the type of fitting where the tube is swaged to form an 'olive'? Not seen (or made) those since college, and that is a distant memory now.....

Kingley Fittings,

the cylinder is too modern for those, is that not a tapered olive in the pic.

 

[tgs166507]

well, is that another twist?

do i need a special 'tapered' olive?? or should a regular one do? I was banking on just putting a regular 22nn olive on there and doing it up!

Thanks for all the comments so far.