Connect 3/4" BSP male cylinder flange to 3/4" BSP male cylinder HW outlet

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Hi,
I am in the process of installing a shower pump.

So, I bought a 3/4" BSP Male leamington flange manufacturer by Tesla UK.
https://www.teslauk.com/product/7561/cylinder-flanges

My hot water cylinder also has a 3/4” BSP male thread hot water outlet (kinspan UltraSteel Direct)

Sure, the 2 don't mate.. Don't ask how come I did not spot that before.
The other hot water cylinder i have got in the house as a female thread, so never thought of checking this one until now....

Anyway, how do i connect the flange on top of the cylinder?
Thanks
 
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Thank you.

Just back from B&Q and bought one of these Easi Plum EP34RS
https://www.burkebros.ie/products/id-2630.html

What confuses me if that the current installation has a compression fitting directly onto the cylinder as per attached photo.....but a 3/4 male thread (onto which i can screw a 3/4 compression nut) does not fit into this Female to Female BSP coupler?
 

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It's not a ¾ fitting, it's 22mm. The thread sizes are different
 
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You can't fit a flange to that cylinder..the best you can do it have a shower take-off on the underside of the cylinder outlet pipe...have a look in the Salamander Pumps guide.
 
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You can't fit a flange to that cylinder..the best you can do it have a shower take-off on the underside of the cylinder outlet pipe...have a look in the Salamander Pumps guide.

Thanks
That's what i started wondering..

The pump (salamander CT Force 20 TU universal https://www.screwfix.ie/p/salamander-pumps-ct-force-20-tu-regenerative-twin-shower-pump-2-0bar/7146p) will be located in the attic beside the CW tank. No space anywhere else.

Still OK to tee off as per diagram attached?
 

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A regenerative (peripheral) impellered pump is far more tolerant of air entrained water (as the cylinder heats micro air bubbles are released to go up the vent pipe) than centrifugal impellered pumps
so they will cope better with not so perfect pipework.

It all comes down to whether you want to risk voiding the warranty...often theres so many onerous conditions that it becomes almost impossible to comply without tearing the house apart to
install compliant pipework etc.
 
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Why do you want a shower pump when you have an unvented hot water cylinder?.

We are redoing the upstairs bathroom, and the water pressure was just not good enough (just gravity), shower head approx 80cm from bottom of CW tank (in attic).

Hence pump just to service the new shower which has a rain shower head.

One part of the house (connected to same HW) stays with gravity fed HW (kitchen and 1 other bathroom with bassin & bath, no shower).
Other bathrooms are onto a complete different separate water system when there were added during extension.


What are you got in mind?
Thanks
 
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Hmmm..the Kingspan Ultasteel Direct is indeed an unvented cyclinder....so why are you contemplating fitting a shower pump?
Has the cylinder been setup as a traditional vented cylinder?
 
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Has the cylinder been setup as a traditional vented cylinder?

Yes. A professional plumber installed this huge 300liter cylinder when we renovated part of the house.

On the attached photo, the HW outlet is a 3/4" compression.
HW outlet then goes to a compression T:
- downwards gravity feds the house HW
- upwards goes up the attic & loops back and vent above the CW tank
 

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Can you show a few more pics of the side of the cylinder...it doesn't make any sense having a cylinder designed for unvented operation ie. fed by mains pressure
onto a CW tank ie. turning it into a vented cyclinder unless pressures/flowrates weren't done before deciding on the unvented option.
 
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Please find few photos of the current installation. Thanks for your help

You should have seen the expression on my wife's face when the plumber fitted this big cylinder. Traditional hot press was gone

IMG_20201113_165041.jpg
IMG_20201113_165028.jpg
 
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