Shower Wall Treatment

[Bobby40]

I have ripped out all the old tiles around my bath with the intention of retiling and also to have a shower installed.

2 of the surrounding walls are brick, and the other wall is stud.
All walls are now pretty scabby with chunks of plaster missing all over them. I intend to cover all 3 walls with aquaboard (2 walls will be battened and plan of just screwing/sticking the aquapanel to the other wall)

My questions are:

1. Should I treat the original damaged walls first with something (like a damp-proof membrane on the battened walls and a damp-proof substance on the spot and dab wall), even though I plan on fitting aquapanel over them?

and

2. Should I also "tank" the aquapanel, even though it is already a treated material?


I'll attach photos if anyone thinks it would help with an answer

Thanks for any feedback.

 

[Richard C]

All walls are now pretty scabby with chunks of plaster missing all over them. I intend to cover all 3 walls with aquaboard (2 walls will be battened and plan of just screwing/sticking the aquapanel to the other wall)

Dry areas OK but don’t use Aquaboard in wet areas are unless you’re prepared to tank it; still not the best option. It’s unimportant what the walls look like as long as they are sound & you can get them flat. If the walls & plaster that’s left is sound, you can get away with filling (but wait for advice), depending on your tile weight. Don’t just screw boards to the solid walls, it’s not sufficient.

What size/weight/type tiles do you intend laying?

My questions are:
Should I treat the original damaged walls first with something (like a damp-proof membrane on the battened walls and a damp-proof substance on the spot and dab wall), even though I plan on fitting aquapanel over them?

Unless you have solid external walls here it’s a waste of time & money, just tape & fill the board joints & tile away; after any necessary prep work.

Should I also "tank" the aquapanel, even though it is already a treated material?

Not necessary unless you have an arduous shower &/or wet room.

Tiling isn’t rocket science but there are still many things that can catch you out & suspended timber floors need special consideration. Walls can also be tricky with tile weights, prep & materials. I would advise you read the Tiling Sticky & Forum Archive posts before doing any work or buying materials, it could prevent you making disastrous & potentially expensive mistakes. It’s important to use only quality trade tilling materials of the correct type for your tiles & tile base; cheapo own brand & DIY stuff is mostly crap.

Post here for more info on here for step-by-step advice & once you decide the type & size tiles you will be laying.

 

[Bobby40]

Thanks for the feedback guys - much appreciated.

On more question: If I decide to batten the walls, is there a standard thickness of batten. Reason being, I'd like to slightly "box" my bath in from the walls, but not too much. I've read 38mm somewhere, but on one of the walls that would cover too much of the bath area.

Again, any feedback appreciated.

 

[Richard C]

On more question: If I decide to batten the walls, is there a standard thickness of batten. Reason being, I'd like to slightly "box" my bath in from the walls, but not too much. I've read 38mm somewhere, but on one of the walls that would cover too much of the bath area.

38mm tends to be used because it’s readily available but you can use whatever thickness you want but it will obviously have to be enough to take the drywall screws; usually 38mm for 12.5mm boards so realistically they battens will have to be at least 28mm thick unless you use shorter screws which I suppose you could on a wall.

The thinner the batten it’s more likely to distort when you pull it up but shimming out will prevent that.