side Garden gate

[Jupiter01]

is it okay to use 4x2 and 2x2 treated planed timber to make a frame for the garden gate? I will nail featheredge boards to the face

 

[JohnD]

for garden work, I've recently been using decking timber. It is cheap and pre-treated. I then use a wood preservative such as Cuprinol which includes a water-repellent colour stain. It's more expensive than fence stain, but gates deserve protection. If you apply the preservative before assembly, you can protect all the nooks and crannies.

 

[Jupiter01]

thanks for the quick response. my 4x2 and 2x2 are also treated. I should also have mentioned that I have some left over from a previous job. Hence, the cost considerations don't apply.

Please advise.

 

[Jupiter01]

I would appreciate any advice that anyone can provide with the construction of this gate please and whether I can use the treated timber I already have. I had the following in mind by way of constructing the frame. I would then nail featheredge boards to the face.

 

[Notch7]

braces go wrong way!

chamfers on top of ledges are ideal to shed water

 

[Jupiter01]

Thanks, I will reverse the braces.
I will add a capping once the featheredge boards are on.

Am I okay to use the treated planned timber that I have left over from another job for this purpose?

 

[Notch7]

Thanks, I will reverse the braces.
I will add a capping once the featheredge boards are on.

Am I okay to use the treated planned timber that I have left over from another job for this purpose?

Yes, it should last for a fair number of years.

Try and contruct so the gate has detailing that avoids trapping water.

If you can form a V where the rails and stiles meet instead of a flush joint that would help (hand plane, electric sander would do it, 3mm radius kind of size) -and soak the rail ends in some treatment before assembly

 

[Jupiter01]

Thanks again. Finally do i make any specific allowance for the contraction and expansion of the frame? i.e. cut timber short anywhere or screw together in a certain way?

 

[Jupiter01]

Morning All,

I was hoping that someone can give me a steer on any specific measures that should be put in place to accommodate the expansion and contraction of timber i.e. cut slightly short, screw in a particular fashion, etc.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Diver Fred]

Braces running wrong way - hinge side should be lowest.
The frame should be Mortise and Tenon (best), Mortise on the rails, Tenons on Ledges;
or Lap-Having joints, cut so that the rail lap is on the outside - so that the ledge lap is clamped between the rail and facing boards.

 

[Jupiter01]

Thanks for the response. Noted the point on braces.
I don't have a tool to cut the joints you have mentioned but could do something like this I suppose?

 

[Notch7]

I would just screw it together -it will probably drop a bit, but its a garden gate.

Set the bottom rail higher, allow the stiles and feather edge to run on below somewhat -it keeps the bottom rail away from the ground and makes the hinges a bit higher up.

 

[JohnD]

if you use hook-and-band hinges, you can lift it off the pins and add stainless or brass washers, they will take up a bit of sag.

I did that on mine because it has a mortice lock which has to line up with the keep.

it may still go trapezoid, though. I have sometimes thought about adding a diagonal brace or steel strip from corner to corner. Or maybe swapping the hinges and hanging it from the opposite stile.

 

[Jupiter01]

That's great. Thanks for your help guys. Really appreciate it.
On the clearance gap between the posts (for expansion), I've been advised 10mm on each side. Does that sound sufficient?

 

[Diver Fred]

Thanks for the response. Noted the point on braces.
I don't have a tool to cut the joints you have mentioned but could do something like this I suppose?

That's a Lap Halving joint. That will do.