(Simple??) question about drainage from washing machine

[pat9367]

We've just replaced our washing machine and in order to get a straight connection to the cold water pipe I had to temporarily remove part of the drainage pipework, as it was in the way. When I connected it all up again I had a leak and I *think* it's because it had been bodged before by the chap who did our utility room and maybe I dislodged some sealant or putty or something.

But looking at the system of pipes, I don't see why it had to be so complicated and I was wondering if I can simply stick the machine's drainage hose into the final part of the outflow pipe, without having to connect up all the various bends again. The previous washing machine's hose simply hung into a TALL vertical pipe which then wound round to the final outflow. Can I stick it instead into a SHORTER vertical pipe? What does the U-bend actually *do*?

I'm new on this forum and the image settings are different to what I'm used to. I have uploaded "before" and "after" pictures at //www.diynot.com/network/pat9367/albums/22788, to better explain what I'm doing. I'm not sure how to attach them to this post.

Anyway I'd be really grateful for any advice on the drainage connection. Thank you.

 

[Agile]

Your link gives:-

Not Found

The requested URL /network/pat9367/albums/22788, was not found on this server.

 

[ALCPlumbing]

The u bend or trap creates a break in the air rising up from the sewers through the pipes and into your kitchen. It's necessary.

 

[pat9367]

OK. I wonder if *this* is how you post images

BEFORE

• pat9367
• 9 Nov 2014
• 1

AFTER

• pat9367
• 9 Nov 2014
• 1

 

[regsmyth]

I think there should be a flexible washer under the big "nut" that squashes up when you tighten it onto the lower part. Then you wouldn't get water leaking from it.

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

Standpipe is required to stop smells coming back into the room from the drain, for the sake of a fiver I'd just replace it. http://www.screwfix.com/p/washing-machine-trap-40mm/18640

If not being used it makes sense to cap that hot washing machine supply valve too, avoids a potential flood if it inadvertently gets turned on....

 

[pat9367]

I think there should be a flexible washer under the big "nut" that squashes up when you tighten it onto the lower part. Then you wouldn't get water leaking from it.

But then shouldn't the bottom end of the vertical bit be threaded? It's not, it's just a piece of pipe, so you can have the big nut as tight as you like and the pipe still just pops in and out. And the copper pipe is green directly underneath the u-bend, so there seems to have been a leak here for some time, though probably minor enough to evaporate unnoticed. No doubt taking these pipes apart has made it a lot worse.

... for the sake of a fiver I'd just replace it.

Good advice I think! I already bought the bottom part from Wickes today before I realised the other part isn't threaded. You live and learn!

If not being used it makes sense to cap that hot washing machine supply valve too, avoids a potential flood if it inadvertently gets turned on....

Makes sense I suppose! What do I need for that, just literally some kind of metal screw cap that goes over the end? Sorry to be such a dunce about this stuff, I don't even know the name of the thing I'm asking for!

Hilarious username by the way.

Also my first link *would* have worked except I got a rogue comma at the end somehow

 

[flameport]

The previous washing machine's hose simply hung into a TALL vertical pipe which then wound round to the final outflow.

The height is necessary as if the waste pipe from the machine is very low, the water inside will flow out continuously, or if it's moderately low the water can syphon out of the machine.

You should put a cap on the red valve as well, to prevent leaks if the lever is knocked accidentally.