Single socket to surface

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I’m literally installing a new full-size dishwasher in place of the slimline. The socket is behind the slimline, and unfortunately is about 2mtrs away and the cable is 1.8mtrs!!
 
Your other two 'reasons' make some sense but I'm not sure about this one (even if you hadn't sort-of 'dismissed' it) - who/what says that sockets (or any other part of an electrical installation) have to be attached to the fabric of building?
Yes John, I`ve heard some say so that I think they probably quoting an NIC myth type thingy, does not really make much sense to me either, attached to fabric of building is but one way of having things nice and secure and safe I might be tempted to agree that perhaps but as being the only way in achieving a decent job I would not think that.
 
View attachment 418657

I’m literally installing a new full-size dishwasher in place of the slimline. The socket is behind the slimline, and unfortunately is about 2mtrs away and the cable is 1.8mtrs!!
Hah!

I did exactly that for my daughter when she moved house.

I'll make a confession on this one; as the existing socket was in the adjacent cupboard - under the sink - and the cable ran from a SFCU, down to floor level and round to the sink cupboard
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all I did was remove the socket, pull the cable back and using a 47mm backbox with cable clamp I refitted the socket and left it and the slack cable laying loose under the adjacent cupboard
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- Tin hat applied and awaiting flack :cry:
 
Hah!

I did exactly that for my daughter when she moved house.

I'll make a confession on this one; as the existing socket was in the adjacent cupboard - under the sink - and the cable ran from a SFCU, down to floor level and round to the sink cupboard View attachment 418658all I did was remove the socket, pull the cable back and using a 47mm backbox with cable clamp I refitted the socket and left it and the slack cable laying loose under the adjacent cupboardView attachment 418659 - Tin hat applied and awaiting flack :cry:
Brilliant !
 
Hah!

I did exactly that for my daughter when she moved house.

I'll make a confession on this one; as the existing socket was in the adjacent cupboard - under the sink - and the cable ran from a SFCU, down to floor level and round to the sink cupboard View attachment 418658all I did was remove the socket, pull the cable back and using a 47mm backbox with cable clamp I refitted the socket and left it and the slack cable laying loose under the adjacent cupboardView attachment 418659 - Tin hat applied and awaiting flack
My Grid switch which feeds the socket is on the other wall.. far left so couldn’t do this
 
where are you going to run pipes if not in voids behind the cupboards ?
Under them, there is usually a huge void below the cupboard enough to fit a kick space heater.
I do not follow them on that idea because unless they are purely temporay I think they are usually intended to be at least semi permanent - no that`s not usually a reason.
I would agree, we sold our last house still with the original kitchen cupboards 30 years old at least.
if needs to be disconnected fairly quickly rather than hunting round to find it and say throw the whole electrics to a home off (which might be in darkness etc) .
Well my kitchen has at least three supplies, cooker, front of house ring final, and refrigeration supply, not counting lights, so eaiser to simply switch off the RCBO.
Quite often cupboards are full of pots and pans and jugs etc rendering sockets etc not always easy to see and its not recommended to be bashing such stuff into them, its also far from ideal for any flexes etc, ideally I would count these reasons alone as a no no.
OK, yes, but the socket is high up to one side with a hole under it for the plug and cable, so in real terms easy to unplug.
Fair enough, it doesn't bother me at all my dish washer for example has a socket in an adjacent cupboard and I've not touched it for 6 years.
That is where mine is also, not a clue if part of ring final or a spur, never really looked.
Your other two 'reasons' make some sense but I'm not sure about this one (even if you hadn't sort-of 'dismissed' it) - who/what says that sockets (or any other part of an electrical installation) have to be attached to the fabric of building?
Also my thoughts, I suppose we return to what is installed? What comes under the EICR. However, I have already started a thread about that.

But the answer I suppose was answered when Part P came out, and we were told we could use an extension lead without registering it, but if we used cable clips, then considered part of the building, I am sure no one really tried to register an extension lead because they had tidied up the cable with cable clips, that's taking pedantic to the limit.

However, at the time we were told Part P was to stop the likes of kitchen fitters doing their own electrics, this is why the kitchen was called a special location, it still is in Wales, we are a bit slow catching up, likely due to 20 MPH speed limit.

But can't have it both ways, however daft if the government says a cable clip makes it installed, then clearly a socket inside a cupboard is also installed.

I also have items which should not be wired as they are. My kettles plug into an extension lead, and I have blown the fuse once, in 5 years of use, so no big thing.

I did put an energy monitor on my dishwasher, the results were not as expected, some long cycles used less than short ones, but all in all, high power used for a relative short time, so over heating of the fuse in a plug or FCU is really not a problem.
 
Under them, there is usually a huge void below the cupboard enough to fit a kick space heater.
True, but I think that would be a pretty difficult and inconvenient place to install pipework. Apart from anything else, it would presumably mean that the pipes would have to be clipped to floorboards, which is not a very clever idea. Also, although under the cupboard, most of the pipes would probably eventually have to 'get to the back', to serve whatever they were there for, and if there were no void behind the cupboards, they would presumably have to go through the cupboards - and would make it next-to-impossible to ever move the units ;)
 
Well my kitchen has at least three supplies, cooker, front of house ring final, and refrigeration supply, not counting lights, so eaiser to simply switch off the RCBO.
Yup - unless the consumer unit is actully in the kitchen then it might be a walk to it and (often in older properties) high up or low down in a cupboard and sometimes not always easy to see the correct breaker therefore the whole CU might need switching off at a mainswitch to prevent further damage and if it then becomes a no light or low light situation might cause more hazards or inconvenience at certain times, the option of throwing a nearby switch or easy unplugging is usually far more convenient .

The last rewire I did the kitchen was gutted and it was the best location to resite the consumer unit to but I still added a local isolator for the cooker circuit and ensured other switches or socket access would be afforded once the planned kitchen was completed.
In that one case the choice of individual appliances or individual circuits or the whole installtion could be chosen quite easily as required.
 

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