small amount of water inside soffit

[mrmurphy]

Hi - I've noticed that when it rains hard I am getting a small amount of water inside my soffit.

When it rains hard I can see water dripping from the join on the underside of the soffit outside my bedroom window, I've managed to crawl in and have a feel on the inside of the soffit from inside the loft and it was slightly wet just above the join.

The rest of the length of soffit felt dry though - so i suspect here is a small leak in the felt that should be depositing the water into the gutter.

Is this a problem or should it be bone dry? Do I need to get someone to look at it right away?

 

[prod]

hi mr murphy, it sounds from your description that the under tile felt has rotted away back under the eaves tile, any water getting between the tiles and felt further up the roof either through a broken tile or perished pointing in the ridge tile will end up in the soffit void. the repair means working off a ladder or scaffold to remove several courses of tiles and tile lath cut back rotten under tile felt and replace with new rot proof membrane and/or eaves drip tray replace tile lath and refit tiles, best not leave it to long as the timber in and around the soffit may rot (more expense )

 

[mrmurphy]

ok cheers - any rough guide price on how much this might cost (say per sq metere?) - just so I know I'm not getting my pants pulled down when I get quotes.

im in Bolton UK.

 

[prod]

its difficult to say without seeing the job, but get at least 3 quotes and you wont go far wrong. what type of tiles are they?

 

[mrmurphy]

concrete I think,

not a million mles from this sort...
http://www.sandtoft.com/tiles/our-products/concrete-range/slate-appearance/calderdale-slate/product/

does that make a difference?

 

[prod]

i was just thinking that you use a lot of slate up that way which creates problems if you have to remove course from the bottom,but the concrete tiles are relatively easy to remove but may have aluminimum clips.you may get away with pushing up the second course and removing the eaves course.

 

[Cumbrianroofer30yrsexp]

i was just thinking that you use a lot of slate up that way which creates problems if you have to remove course from the bottom,but the concrete tiles are relatively easy to remove but may have aluminimum clips.you may get away with pushing up the second course and removing the eaves course.

It does not cause a problem but op said its tile now anyway,a bit more work than tiles but no problem.Just remove the second or third course and then the bottom and eaves,repair felt,refix eaves/bottom course then tinkle 2nd or 3rd row in with either straps or lead tinkles(if tinkles put a bit of silicone on first but tool in the ensure bondage).

 

[prod]

thanks cumbrian ,I`d clocked that he had concrete tiles thats why I didnt bother going into detail on how to go about repairing a slate roof, although using the lead tingle or copper strap may work for isolated slipped tiles i would`nt recommend it for a complete course of slates,I would go for the slate hook method for a permenant,safer and less unsightly finish http://www.spanishslateuk.com/hook_fixing.asp but each to his own. thx again

 

[Cumbrianroofer30yrsexp]

thanks cumbrian ,I`d clocked that he had concrete tiles thats why I didnt bother going into detail on how to go about repairing a slate roof, although using the lead tingle or copper strap may work for isolated slipped tiles i would`nt recommend it for a complete course of slates,I would go for the slate hook method for a permenant,safer and less unsightly finish http://www.spanishslateuk.com/hook_fixing.asp but each to his own. thx again

Thanks for the vid prod,I must admit ive never used to hooks in the vid.More often than not i use a bit of silicone and a lead tinkle,the silicone prevents rattling but as you say each to their own.It matters not which method one uses,as long as its effective then the jobs a good un .