Smart Meter gives delayed readings? + Cost of running electric fan heater?

OM2

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Our smart meter from EDF gives delayed readings
Go for a shower and the cost has gone up 2p. Yipee!
Except, 1 hour later (with almost zero usage - no heating on) it shoots up by 80p say.
Expensive shower. :(
Are these smart meters meant to be delayed like this?

Electric 2KW fan heater... I'd been telling the family NOT to use.
Wife started to use anyway. 5 hours of usage - the meters gone up 20p maybe (and doesn't jump up later either).
Am I getting that right?

ALSO... buying more fan heaters... what should I buy?
On Amazon I've seen 'Fan Heater 1200W/600W' for about £50 - these ones are ceramic.
Or... I could buy the existing one we bought from Range for about £15 - that's 2KW.
Which should I buy?

Or... should I invest in oil heaters?

EDIT: not wanting to make this post too long... but heating our 5 bed house seems to cost about £1.50 per hour - that's with 'optimised' heating strategy... put on 25 degrees for 90 min, then lower to 20 degrees. So thought fan heater + maybe would be a good idea? Better than heating the whole house.

Thanks.
 
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£50 is a lot for a low powered fan heater.

"Ceramic" adds nothing to efficiency or output

All electric heaters are equally efficient. They all turn 1kWh of electrical energy into 1kWh of heat energy.

Whether you paid £12 or £120 for the heater.

Oil filled radiators provide a more even and comfortable heat and have no moving parts to wear out or become noisy. And are safer.

If you have the possibilty to use gas, the cost per kWh is about a quarter the cost of electricty.

P.s.
what do you hope to gain by turning the thermostat up to 25C?
 
Thermostats don't work like that. Set it to whatever temperature will constantly rise until it gets to that temperature. Setting it higher will not make it rise faster and could cause it to overshoot thus wasting energy.
 
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Thermostats don't work like that. Set it to whatever temperature will constantly rise until it gets to that temperature. Setting it higher will not make it rise faster and could cause it to overshoot thus wasting energy.
So what is the ideal temperature would you say?

@JohnD yes, have used an oven.
I guess you're saying 25 degrees is too much?
 
The information from the gas meter gets sent every half hour, so there is a delay. This is to maximise the life of the battery in the gas meter.

How often will my IHD be updated with data from my meters?
Your IHD (In Home Display) will be updated by your electricity meter about every 10 seconds and by your gas meter about every 30 minutes. The gas meter updates less often in order to preserve its battery life which in normal use is expected to be at least 10-15 years.

Read more at: https://www.smartme.co.uk/home-area-network.html © SmartMe.co.uk
 
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you seem to be tying your self up in knots
stop using electric heaters they cost about 3 times as much for the same energy
if the boiler is in use do not use electric to do the same job
if you have a large house and only heating one room then consider a fan heater as a possibility with the boiler off
 
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Echoing the above, the reason being that the boiler is in one of two states at any time: "make heat" or "don't make heat". The thermostat being set to 25 degrees doesn't mean that the boiler goes into a high power mode to try and keep up, it simply means that the boiler will be in "make heat" mode until either the stat gets to 25, or you turn it back down to 20.

Something else to note is that people will experience 20 degrees as varying levels of warmth. For instance, in winter I'll sit indoors wearing a hoody with the central heating at 20 degrees, but on a 20 degree day I'll be quite happy in a t-shirt.
 
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its worth mentioning that the boiler and pipes to the radiator will give out heat now thats not wasted heat its just heat fully on the books off the one or 2 rooms you are trying to heat but its not wasted heat as such as it helps heat the fabric off the building even in a garage if thats where the boiler is as it reduces the need for the boiler fire up on its own just for frost setting with no heating
 
A 2kW fan heater, running continuously for 5 hours will use 10kWh, so it will cost 10 times whatever you pay for a kWh - probably about 35p per kWh, so about £3.50.

My experience is that lower but steadier temps are more comfortable - for example, keeping the thermostat to 18 degrees.
Electric heating is generally expensive, so it's worth keeping it targeted on the bodies you want to warm - have a look at IR panel heaters.
...and, risking stating the obvious here, wear more clothes, reduce draughts, upgrade insulation.
 
Thinking about it - if my body is regularly having to cope with 25 degrees of heat in the winter, I'm going to then struggle to be comfortable in a more reasonable 18 degrees temperature - it's going to feel cold by comparison.
 
Not got a "Smart" meter, I do however have plug in energy monitors, and did have a meter to measure whole house until batteries leaked. The problem was no meter to measure gas or oil in real time, so hard to compare energy costs.
Thermostats don't work like that. Set it to whatever temperature will constantly rise until it gets to that temperature. Setting it higher will not make it rise faster and could cause it to overshoot thus wasting energy.
You set it to the temperature you want the room to be at and then never move it agin.
That may be correct in an ideal world, but in my experience wrong. The problem is our devices are too smart, and try to reduce hysteresis, so mothers house set the TRV to 20ºC at 7 am and it was nearly 11 am before the room was at 20ºC so would set it to 22ºC from 7 to 8 am then 20ºC and it would hold room at 20ºC until ready to retire at 10 pm when it would drop to the Eco setting of 17ºC.

You don't say if you can heat with gas.
Or... should I invest in oil heaters?
Do you mean oil filled radiators or an oil burning boiler? The latter is far cheaper to run than electric.
As to electric you have three methods to heat the home, convection, radiation, or heat pump. A resistive heater be it a fan heater or oil filled radiator will all give out the same heat per pound. However when a fan heater turns off you feel the cold immanently but when an oil filled radiator turns off the effect is delayed. Also the fan heater will heat whole of room equally, but the oil filled radiator will cause thermals and the room will have warm and cool spots circulation3.jpgso when I lived in a single glazed hot air centrally heated house, the bills were high, as whole house kept warm, but mothers living room with a radiator place thermometers around the room and they could show 18 - 26ºC depending where placed, morning sun could heat area around the window, but the area next to wall to next room was a lot cooler, in time gone by, we had high backed chairs to protect us from cold drafts.

Infrared heaters don't heat the air, but what is placed in front of them, it is instant heat, it can pass through windows, and it stops as soon as heater is switched off, so only way to control is more or less bars turned on, thermostats don't really work as they monitor air temperature and it does not heat the air. They are very good for instant heat, heat the church for an hour, or bathroom while having a shower, but hard to control. However it can work as a part of the heating system, in fact that is how our open fires have worked for years.

Heat pumps are much cheaper to run, but costly to buy and install.

In the main the way to reduce heating costs is to only heat when required, I have programmable TRV heads throughout my house, I know approximately when each room will be used, so use Eco and Comfort settings, 17ºC for Eco and 20ºC for Comfort, and I keep internal doors closed, so stop heating kitchen at 8 pm, as after that point will only pop in to make coffee, dinning room not used in Winter, that saves on heating, living room turns up at 4 pm ready to watch TV and down again at 11 pm.

Each room has a different program. I use cheap TRV heads in the main, you can get expensive ones which have algorithms that work out how long it takes to heat the room, so you set time you want room warm by, and it works out when it needs to start heating to get room warm just in time. The Drayton Wiser TRV head does this.

However since I don't heat with electric, I use oil, I don't know how the electric heaters do this, clearly they can heat water which is pumped around like any other energy form, in the same way we can have stand alone gas and oil heaters. But main way to reduce cost is to only heat when required, so the things we need to look at is not the base heater, but how we control the heater, my Nest thermostat for example monitors where my wife's and my mobile phones are, and turns down the heating when we are not home.

There is no reason not to heat a room to a base heat, say 17ºC then have PIR controlled Infrared heaters turn one when it senses people in the room, may work with a kitchen, but living rooms and bedrooms we don't move around enough.

In the main the "Smart" meter is useless, as it is measuring too many items to work out what each is using, Jag-battery2.jpg this shows my battery charger recharging the battery on my car, I used it so I could see when it was charged, but it does show energy used by one device, be it a freezer, or a heater, I can see what each electric device uses. This 1673086628370.png shows my outside Christmas lights turning on and off. The plug in units can use voice commands, although I don't bother, I can say hey google turn on Energy monitor and what ever is plugged in will switch on, the TV advert with a Freddy Boswell look alike clapping his hands is a figment of some ones imagination you can't turn the meter on and off, only the supplier can do that, and using clapping of hands would not be very convenient, too easy to turn on/off in error.

What would be a good idea is a stand alone electric heater which has the same algorithms as the Drayton Wiser TRV heads, so you can set the time when you want the room warm, however I don't know of any, I am sure some one will through.
 

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