I have an existing double socket on a solid wall. I'm having 40mm insulation backed Thermaline board fitted on this wall next week. Question is, how do I handle the socket? There's enough slack on the cables to allow it to be fitted to the new board, but I'm not sure if I can just fit a 47mm steel wall box to the surface (slighty recessed) of the wall or do I need to use a plastic wallboard back box?
Socket Wall Box - Thermaline Plasterboard
- Thread starter nordberg73
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It's up to you - steel box with grommet(s) or dry lining box.
Fair enough... I'm thinking I will mount a 47mm steel box on the existing plastered wall now and they can cut the thermaline board to fit around it (the board is 40mm so I figure 7mm for dot and dab should be pretty close).
Is it OK just to leave the cables clipped to the wall or do they need to be in a conduit of some description (this socket is only 9 inches from the floor).
THanks!
If the cables still remain plastered into the original wall then just leave them there unless you need to free them to gain the length required in which case they should still be fine behind such a large cavity.
Alternatively put them into some mechanical protection. Difficult to judge when we cannot see the physical aspects!
Good luck!
Alternatively put them into some mechanical protection. Difficult to judge when we cannot see the physical aspects!
Good luck!
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I'll need to free them up to get the length....
It's not going to be difficult (ha ha - I'll regret saying that!!), so I'll make the call when I rip it out tonight...
Cheers!
It's not going to be difficult (ha ha - I'll regret saying that!!), so I'll make the call when I rip it out tonight...
Cheers!
How do you fit dry-lining boxes to a board which is 52mm (or so - 40mm insulation + plasterboard) thick?
Are you aware that that is notifiable work, and that there are minimum standards of performance required?
Will 40mm be enough?
Whatever you do you must seal all the holes in the socket, as you'll be perforating the VCL on the board, so you must make sure that warm moist air from the room does not get behind the plasterboard, because if it does you will get condensation and then mould.
Cut as normal then remove enough of the insulation to allow the tags to pull up against the plasterboard.
Hmmm - I was of the understanding that the total thickness was 40mm....
OK - I assumed that was the insulation thickness.
Did you apply for Building Regulations approval?
Will the final u-value of the walls be adequate?
Did you apply for Building Regulations approval?
Will the final u-value of the walls be adequate?
BAS, genuine question, why will it be notifiable? He appears to be relocating a socket using exisitng wiring and not creating a new circuit, or working in a kitchen / bathroom (from what the OP has said).
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Possibly to do with the building (insulation) work rather than the electrical.
Yup.
I'm all for building control and I understand why we have regulations, but seriously, getting building regs involved for putting an 8 foot sheet of insulated plasterboard in my house seems ridiculous.
Is cavity wall insulation notifiable? What about if I top up my loft insulation?
Is cavity wall insulation notifiable? What about if I top up my loft insulation?
As long as the choices you make are fully informed.
Yes.
Not if it consists solely of the installation of insulation, and is not being done in order to comply with any requirements of the Building Regulations.
[EDIT]Answer corrected[/EDIT]
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