Sockets in thin walls 7 cm

Looking back it's possibly statements like this that's the issue

It's more of a putdown than a contribution

Indeed it was.

And what was it a putdown of?

Was it putdown of a helpful suggestion to the OP's problem?

Or was it a putdown of someone criticising a helpful suggestion as being "a clumsy, insecure solution in every way"?
 
A possible solution here is a probationary period whereby morqthana agrees to raise the quality of his postings

There's nothing wrong with the quality of my postings.

The solution here is for some people to raise the quality of their reading.

The OP came here looking for a solution to a problem.

I was in "read-only" mode. I offered no solutions of any sort. How does that make me the villain here?

I did not mock the OP, or propose anything daft. How does that make me the villain here?

I took issue with someone who did not
Try giving a solution instead of picking on other people's suggestions.
but called a solution which had been given "a clumsy, insecure solution in every way".

How does that make me the villain here?
 
If I had to choose between a mortared-in box, or one held by glue and filler, or one relying on screws into notoriously difficult and frangible breeze, I'd go for mortar.
Personally I'd find it easier to fill the aerated cinder block air spaces (if that's what it is) with some of the resin based adhesives than gritty sand based products.
 
There's nothing wrong with the quality of my postings.

The solution here is for some people to raise the quality of their reading.

The OP came here looking for a solution to a problem.

I was in "read-only" mode. I offered no solutions of any sort. How does that make me the villain here?

I did not mock the OP, or propose anything daft. How does that make me the villain here?

I took issue with someone who did not

but called a solution which had been given "a clumsy, insecure solution in every way".

How does that make me the villain here?
You need to chill out man....I wont make anymore comments about your lack of advive again....Scout's honour.
 
I've had experience of this a few times, but in my case, it's been a pinky kind of clay type material. I'm no artist, but imagine drawing a rectangle with vertical lines parallel to the short ends regularly spaced out along the length. That is a cross section through one of these blocks.

And they are thin! And when knocking out for sockets, it is very easy to at least damage the other side, if not knock through altogether! Like I did...ooops...

My AI Search reckons these were common from the late 1800s (to avoid brick taxes) to early 20th C buildings, for, amongst other uses, non-load bearing walls. But in practice, I have seen them in buildings erected as late as the 1950s.

When I was on one job, someone in the trade older and wiser than me told me these clay blocks were called Salamander, but searching that term doesn't bring anything up.

In any case, it doesn't appear from the colour of your block that it is the same material.

You may find my method odd, but it worked for me. I bashed out the recesses for the boxes and slapped a load of bonding in the holes. Making sure the boxes were true, I fixed a length of 2x1 across them to hold them in place until the bonding set.

They were rock solid after an hour.
 
There's nothing wrong with the quality of my postings.

The solution here is for some people to raise the quality of their reading.

The OP came here looking for a solution to a problem.

I was in "read-only" mode. I offered no solutions of any sort. How does that make me the villain here?

I did not mock the OP, or propose anything daft. How does that make me the villain here?

I took issue with someone who did not

but called a solution which had been given "a clumsy, insecure solution in every way".

How does that make me the villain here?
You know i was on a windup :mrgreen:
 
I've had experience of this a few times, but in my case, it's been a pinky kind of clay type material. I'm no artist, but imagine drawing a rectangle with vertical lines parallel to the short ends regularly spaced out along the length. That is a cross section through one of these blocks.

And they are thin! And when knocking out for sockets, it is very easy to at least damage the other side, if not knock through altogether! Like I did...ooops...

My AI Search reckons these were common from the late 1800s (to avoid brick taxes) to early 20th C buildings, for, amongst other uses, non-load bearing walls. But in practice, I have seen them in buildings erected as late as the 1950s.

When I was on one job, someone in the trade older and wiser than me told me these clay blocks were called Salamander, but searching that term doesn't bring anything up.

In any case, it doesn't appear from the colour of your block that it is the same material.

You may find my method odd, but it worked for me. I bashed out the recesses for the boxes and slapped a load of bonding in the holes. Making sure the boxes were true, I fixed a length of 2x1 across them to hold them in place until the bonding set.

They were rock solid after an hour.
Is it a myth that bonding corrodes the boxes

I stuck with sand and cement after I was warned off bonding. I never did find out the truth of the matter
 
I think it's half myth, half truth, really. Gypsum plasters (not just bonding) are corrosive when wet. But the galv boxes are more than enough to handle it. When dry, there is no longer an issue.
 
Is it a myth that bonding corrodes the boxes

I stuck with sand and cement after I was warned off bonding. I never did find out the truth of the matter
I don't think so. But it is not as strong as mortar, or as easy to use, I knew someone who relied on plaster for speed and when he later tightened the faceplate screws, the boxes pulled out.
 
I think it's half myth, half truth, really. Gypsum plasters (not just bonding) are corrosive when wet. But the galv boxes are more than enough to handle it. When dry, there is no longer an issue.
Not correct I'm afraid.
The thing with plaster is it absorbs the air moisture so it's never 'completely dry' and retains corrosive properties, IIRC the order from previous research from best to worst is stainless steel, copper, galvanised steel, unprotected steel.
With cement based mortars galvanised and copper change places but generally less corrosion.
The problem was really with the black lacquered boxes which were almost guaranteed to be scratched during installation, I've often found rust marks in the filler around boxes. The same it true for buried lacquered conduit, some of those I've found with huge areas completely rusted away, one missing earth was found to be where the tube had a total break caused by severe corrosion and evidence of a high current flowing in the metal tube blowing the last dregs of it's continuity and creating a black mark in the painted surface. I imagine the mark was caused by some sort of current carrying capacity of the surrounding plaster rather than a simple arc - unless of course that arc was maintained for a period of time.
 

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