Soil against outside wall

[bandejapaisa]

On one side of my house, garden soil is up right against the outside wall.

Is this bad? It doesn't seem good to me. Seems to me that it would hold moisture against the wall for long periods of time.

Can the walls handle this, or should I do something about it?

I can't think of any other properties that have soil right against the walls like this.

What do you suggest I do about it?

Thanks

 

[drpepe]

On one side of my house, garden soil is up right against the outside wall.

Is this bad? It doesn't seem good to me. Seems to me that it would hold moisture against the wall for long periods of time.

Can the walls handle this, or should I do something about it?

I can't think of any other properties that have soil right against the walls like this.

What do you suggest I do about it?

Thanks

I think it depends on where the damp proof course is located relative to the soil level.

 

[bandejapaisa]

How can I identify the DPC?

It's an Edwardian building, solid brick with a slate DPC (apparently).

It has a cellar, and the soil level is just below the air bricks

 

[drpepe]

How can I identify the DPC?

It's an Edwardian building, solid brick with a slate DPC (apparently).

It has a cellar, and the soil level is just below the air bricks

In my 1901 solid stone built home the DPC (some kind of bitumen/pitch so i'm told), is located directly underneath the air bricks - can you see anything at all that doesn't look like the rest of the wall?

 

[Flyboytim]

The soil or ground surface should be at least 2 brick courses (150mm, 6 in.) below the DPC. This is to prevent rainwater splashback on the wall above the DPC.

Soil is less likely to splash from soil quite as high as from a solid surface, like a path. There is no great problem with soil adjacent to a wall - after all, beneath any ground covering, there will be soil.

Below the damp proof course it is likely to be damp - the reason for the DPC is to separate damp from dry wall. and the air bricks should ventilate the void below ground floor level below the DPC in order to prevent the underfloor from becoming too damp.

Ventilation above the DPC is likely to be ventilation into the room space (some older building bye laws required ventilation for rooms without fireplaces)

 

[bandejapaisa]

The bottom meter of the building has render on it, so I can't see.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidcasserly/12463920265/in/photostream/

 

[stuart45]

Any sign of dampness inside?

 

[bandejapaisa]

Well, the previous owner had a damp survey done a few years back and there is no rising damp.

There is a condensation problem due to bad ventilation in the house and a a few air bricks which look like they need a bit of attention, which is another issue I'm sorting out.

However, the property has been empty for 3 months and it smells a bit musty. I can see little bits of black mold from the condensation problem - and wondering if this is giving off the musty smell.

But the smell is down one side of the house, where the bathroom and mold is, but it also happens to be the same end of the house as the soil against the wall.

So I was wondering if the soil might be adding to the problem.

 

[stuart45]

See what it's like once it's lived in and heated again.

 

[bandejapaisa]

Well I didn't smell a thing when I viewed it when someone was living in it. So you might be right.... it could be ok when I move in.

So are you saying it's normal for an empty house to get a musty smell?

 

[Flyboytim]

The metre high render is an impervious coating which could bridge moisture in the wall from below the DPC to the wall above, but it has probably existed like that for a long time, so it is unlikely to suddenly be causing a problem. It will however make the wall colder, so internal condensation is more likely.

Condensation and mould is a particular problem in the south this winter because of the weather.

The rule is allow ventilation and increase air movement, and avoiding intermittent or excessive heating during the months of October to March.

Condensation occurs when the air inside is warmer than the cold wall surfaces, and the temperature of the walls is below the dew point, so that moisture condenses on them.

If the temperature of the walls are the same as the air, then condensation cannot occur. Therefore keeping air temperatures reasonably low and steady, and moving air around, like with a fan, will bring the temperatures of surfaces into line with the air, and help evaporation of the dampness.

Ventilate when the weather is dry, not damp.

Do not heat intermittently and raise the temperature too quickly, or cold surfaces will not have chance to warm and will attract condensation.

Clean the mould off with a biocidal solution like antibacterial surface cleaner, mould remover, or my choice, thick bleach, do not scrub, lightly wipe or brush on the affected areas. If the mould leaves stains, thick bleach may be brushed on and left to dry. Keep the area ventilated until the smells diminish.

Bleach will also kill mould in bathroom tile grout. Lavatory cisterns and cold pipes are condensation sources. Try not to keep bathroom too warm. Ventilate/extract bathrooms during & after showering, and wipe down surfaces afterwards. Do not leave door to bathroom open.

Check behind bath panelling for hidden damp causing odours, find source of water ingress and seal with the correct type of silicone sealant.

If the areas remains dry, the mould will not return.

 

[bandejapaisa]

Some great things for me to think about here to sort out my problem.

Thanks !