Soldering torch and gas recommendation

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Can anyone recommend a solid/reliable soldering torch please that will be suitable for using upside down/back to front for joints in trickier places ?

Additionally, is there a preferred gas as i see mention of butane, propane, map etc ?

I don't mind spending a bit of cash as i would use it in the future but obviously, would prefer not to spend a fortune if possible


I bought a GoSystem from B&Q and it wont light easily and when it finally does, regularly just goes out so thats getting returned later today !!!
A quick Google seems to return that this is a known problem and frankly, they are crap

thanks in advance
 
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There used to be a cost difference between butane and propane, but propane is almost as cheap now and has the advantage of lower operating temp, not that this will make any difference to you. Unless you are looking at high usage, I'd go with this https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p43245
 
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thanks for the replies

any thoughts/views on which gas to use please ? (pros/cons)
 
thanks for all the replies

so is MAPP gas really needed for domestic 15mm and 22mm joints.....i'm guessing not ?

i'm not precious about saving an extra 30 secs of heating up the joint ! :)

also, my reason for looking at a new solder gun is that i have done a few joints recently which are weeping very slightly (yorkshires)
my ceiling has been re-plasterboarded, so they are now going to be pretty awkward to access

q : do they need to be cut out, or can the joints be heated up, the joints removed, and then the old solder cleaned off ?
 
Propane/butane should be fine for soldering those sizes. You will get away with removing the joints. Heat up what’s left on the pipe to melt and wipe off with a dry rag. You can then emery the rest off if needed and re-solder. MAPP gas can be used for brazing too I believe.
 
You may find that it's prep, not enough/too much heat or not enough flux that have left you with weeping joints. It takes practice to solder well.

You need to empty the pipe of water, heat and separate the joints. Then reheat the pipe ends and wipe with a wet cloth with some flux on it to removed the old solder. In effect you will end up with tinned ends that are perfect for soldering onto. If you are concerned with end feed and your skill in soldering then use yorkies with enough flux and heat it till you get a ring of solder at the joint.
 
tinned ends ? :confused:
tinned in colour, or otherwise ??


also, if i use a yorkshire again, i have seen youtube clips showing the adding of a final bit if extra solder for "good measure"


will it truly get sucked upwards towards the flux and into the joint for the downward joints ?

if so, i assume that you should only flux, lets say an extra 2/3mm of the pipe past the end of the joint to prevent it grabbing the solder ?
 
Look up tinning, when it comes to soldering it's is a great way to prep surfaces to be soldered. With the new self cleaning fluxes and solders it's not needed now, more so used now in electrical soldering.

With yorkies, there is plenty of solder within the fitting and as long as a ring appears at the joint then all should be good, shouldn't need any more but if no ring is seen then a dab of solder can finish it off. Solder will be drawn upwards by capilliary action and by the flux yes. It's experience that ensures you don't have the same amount travelling downwards ;)

As far as the amount of flux is concerned then it's each to their own, I like to wipe the joint with my (gloved) finger, before heating, to remove most of the flux left outside the joint once in the fitting, with just enough left at the joint itself ...yes ..... so the solder doesn't flow outside the fitting.
 
We use the Rothenberger at work with MAP gas, excellent torch and very durable (it has been dropped a few times!).
 

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