Sort of buried but not cable

I tend to agree with lec that split con seems like a decent solution, it has the earthed (well mostly neutral but that counts as earth for this purpose) metal layer that cables for direct burial should have and it doesn't need any glands or anything.
 
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Are you talking burried directly in the gravel BAS? What sort of gravel?
What am I? A landscape gardener or an aggregates salesman? Gravel - you know, small stones - I know no more.

Imagine the light in the 2nd photo down, with paving where the grass is, and gravel where the pavers are in front of the raised bed, but with the gravel deep enough to cover the base of the light....
 
I'm just trying to consider what effect the gravel can have on a cable i.e. can the gravel cause any damage to a cable if it is burried in it?
 
I would get the light first, and see if you can fit a trouser box inside the base. IF you can, SWA. If not, 4mm split con, preferably ducted. 25mm black civil duct is great for this - the coils of it, not rigid.
 
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I'm just trying to consider what effect the gravel can have on a cable i.e. can the gravel cause any damage to a cable if it is burried in it?
I see what you mean.

Possibly, if there's a lot of weight on it, e.g. a significant depth, people walking, cars driving etc, but in this case there'll be none of these.

And now I think of it, I think we're having stuff which is more towards the shingle end of the spectrum.

4mm² split-con. 3 lights each 20W or less. Total cable run under 10m. Hmmm.........
 
I'm just trying to consider what effect the gravel can have on a cable i.e. can the gravel cause any damage to a cable if it is burried in it?

I have found cable to a gate intercom damaged by sharp gravel cutting into the cable where people walked over the gravel.

Sea washed pebbles have far fewer ( if any ) sharp edges
 
I would get the light first, and see if you can fit a trouser box inside the base. IF you can, SWA. If not, 4mm split con, preferably ducted. 25mm black civil duct is great for this - the coils of it, not rigid.
Good news 1: The lights have arrived in time for me to work out how I'll connect them.

Good news 2: There's room inside the bollards for a 20mm galv Y box, so I can loop SWA in and out of those. I assume that the threads are compatible, and I'll be able to screw 20mm SWA glands and a 20mm nylon compression gland into the entry points of the conduit box?

Good news 3: The box will be above ground inside an IP44 light, so I won't need any special waterproofing measures.

The last light in the chain is surface mounted on a wall, with a rear cable entry point so it won't take a SWA gland, but as I don't need to maintain the armour continuity beyond that point I'll just use a compression one.
 
regular plastic conduit with radiused bends seems like the easiest option..

Radiused? Not bought ones I hope! Pull your own.

Dont like the idea, as there is no earthed or concentric covering to offer protection in the event of damage.
 
I would get the light first, and see if you can fit a trouser box inside the base. IF you can, SWA. If not, 4mm split con, preferably ducted. 25mm black civil duct is great for this - the coils of it, not rigid.
Good news 1: The lights have arrived in time for me to work out how I'll connect them.

Good news 2: There's room inside the bollards for a 20mm galv Y box, so I can loop SWA in and out of those. I assume that the threads are compatible, and I'll be able to screw 20mm SWA glands and a 20mm nylon compression gland into the entry points of the conduit box?

Good news 3: The box will be above ground inside an IP44 light, so I won't need any special waterproofing measures.

The last light in the chain is surface mounted on a wall, with a rear cable entry point so it won't take a SWA gland, but as I don't need to maintain the armour continuity beyond that point I'll just use a compression one.


Thats ideal. The CW20s glands will fit directly into the trouser box, with a TRS gland in the top. I would still likely use some non setting compound, or atleast a gasget lid on the galv box, as condensation can still be an issue.

SWA and trouser boxes is the way to go with these lights.

For those who do not now what a trouser or Y box is :

BOX20GY_small.jpg
 
Yes, trouser boxes all the way.
I did an outside lantern for someone about a year or so ago, used the supplied junction box and the feker filled with water and tripped everything out (RCD main switch), changed it to a trouser box and not a problem since.
 
I would still likely use some non setting compound, or atleast a gasget lid on the galv box, as condensation can still be an issue.
I plan to use a lid+gasket.

If I get problems later I'll wait for dry weather and fill the boxes with goo.
 
One problem I had

What I found with my bollard lights , ants nest inside them

The soil ended up about a foot high inside the tube, the galv box, got damp and shorted out tripping the rcd.

Had to fill the bottom 6inches with cement to stop them
 

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