Speedfit installation advice

[Softus]

This ensures adequate flow to all the radiators giving a faster heat up time on the rads throughout the property.If you use 15 mm piping as your flow and returns depending on your heating controls(thermostatic valves or room stat?)you may find some rads at start of flow loop heating quickly,whilst rads at end of flow loops heating up much more slowly.

Eh? Whilst it's true that pipework that's too small will affect the total heat distributed, and be more restrictive, I think you've misunderstood the purpose of pipe sizing.

For example: why would you not use 28mm (or greater) pipe for the flow and return?

__________

Edit: oops - this has overlapped with GasGuru's post; sorry.

 

[Milt1978]

First of all thank you to those members who have offered some very useful advice I will of cause take on board all. Additionally to those members who preferred to take a pop at me for my attempt in plumbing wonder why you visit a site like this any way? I thought this site was for asking questions like mine i never said that i was a plumber? perhaps if you are offended by my shear existence or contempt for joining should look for a forum site that that requires CORGI registration numbers as part of the application process.

the reason that im doing the first stages of my installation is because my plumber who I always use (who does quite well out of me) can not fit to my time schedule on this occasion and it was he that suggested that I did it myself, im a qualified joiner, part P certified electrician and are due to start my City & Guilds in pluming this year and have been in the building trade for 12 years and for a 28 year old am not doing so bad! Most of the properties I buy tend to be change of use and have to be signed off by building control! My point being that I'm no Cowboy ChrisR.

Back to the original point, as it turns out im only running 22mm (F&R) for 1.5 mtrs from the boiler that will feed two 15mm branches, one branch to run 3 rads and the other to run 4 rads. However in the other property I will be running 22mm (F&R) to the first 4 rads and reducing to 15mm for the other 3.

Having used copper pipe before for the occasional rad/bathroom feed would strongly recommend plastic over copper. It was so much easier to use shape and fit, with less connections and a far neater job. Not only that, I had the full central heating run (flow, return and rad drops) done and dry tested within a day, it has also worked out about a 1/3 of the price.

 

[Softus]

im a qualified joiner, part P certified electrician...

Part P "certified" - what does that mean?

Most of the properties I buy tend to be change of use and have to be signed off by building control! My point being that I'm no Cowboy ChrisR.

Hmm. Don't you know that the heating circuit pipework is not signed off by Building Control? So you, and/or your plumber, could be a cowboy and you'd still get a certificate.

Back to the original point, as it turns out im only running 22mm (F&R) for 1.5 mtrs from the boiler that will feed two 15mm branches, one branch to run 3 rads and the other to run 4 rads.

This would be ill advised. Is there some reason for not running 22mm as far as the tee off to each rad?

However in the other property I will be running 22mm (F&R) to the first 4 rads and reducing to 15mm for the other 3.

Ditto.

Not only that, I had the full central heating run (flow, return and rad drops) done and dry tested within a day...

Are you aware that Hepworth advise against dry testing of their products?

 

[Milt1978]

Part P Certified means i can test, check for faults and repair any electrical domestic install on behalf of Building control. it's the electricians vertion of CORGI (ish)

You are correct that CH systems are not signed off, my point was that you have to do work to a good level, why would i spend the time making sure that every other stage is bang on then bodge the other things? false economy! hence my post for advice, i wasn’t making a statement!

Again like i say im not a plumber and this is what i was advised to do.

Ditto

Im not using hepworth! in the installation guide by JG Speedfit it advises you dry test at 2 bar for 10 mins then 10 bar for a further 10 mins.

 

[Softus]

Part P Certified means i can test, check for faults and repair any electrical domestic install on behalf of Building control. it's the electricians vertion of CORGI (ish).

This is such a garbled description of what Part P is about that it makes me wonder if you're actually registered. Who are you registered with?

You are correct that CH systems are not signed off, my point was that you have to do work to a good level, why would i spend the time making sure that every other stage is bang on then bodge the other things?

That's patent nonsense. I see evidence of poor building and plumbing practise every day of the week - all supposedly signed off. Either you do a high quality job because you want to, or you don't. No BCO is going to enforce it.

false economy! hence my post for advice, i wasn’t making a statement!

I don't know what you think is a false economy.

Again like i say im not a plumber and this is what i was advised to do.

Again I say that you were ill-advised.

Im not using hepworth! in the installation guide by JG Speedfit it advises you dry test at 2 bar for 10 mins then 10 bar for a further 10 mins.

That's the biggest load of b*llocks I've read in months. JG advocate wet testing at those pressures, not dry testing. You need a C&G in reading, not plumbing.

 

[Milt1978]

Again thank you for your advice, im registered with the NIC, would you like my inside leg measurement too?

I assume that you are a plumber and have been for some time for which i fully respect your opinion and advice. however you don’t know me? how can you comment on my levels of work and competence? apart from buying and selling i also rent property, if work is shoddy or of a poor standard its me who has to fix or pay for it to be fixed, also if i sell a house that is riddled with mistakes and poor building work i wouldn’t be in work for long (false economy). i have done (re-plumbing) what i have been advised to do if you think this is wrong i would really appreciate your advice on what i should be doing that was why i asked the question, not to be set upon and criticized? im sure if i called you a cowboy you would not be happy!

 

[Softus]

Again thank you for your advice, im registered with the NIC, would you like my inside leg measurement too?

Very droll. Nobody asked you to tell us your qualifications, but you said that you were "certified", and you're not. Take responsibility for using the wrong word.

I assume that you are a plumber and have been for some time

You may assume what you like.

how can you comment on my levels of work and competence?

Where have I done that?

apart from buying and selling i also rent property, if work is shoddy or of a poor standard its me who has to fix or pay for it to be fixed, also if i sell a house that is riddled with mistakes and poor building work i wouldn’t be in work for long (false economy). i have done (re-plumbing) what i have been advised to do if you think this is wrong i would really appreciate your advice on what i should be doing that was why i asked the question, not to be set upon and criticized? im sure if i called you a cowboy you would not be happy!

FFS I haven't called you a cowboy, I've merely pointed out the illogic in your claim that your work must be of high quality because the BCO has passed it.

Regarding your heating system(s), I thought you might have read between the lines by now. I also thought you would know from previous installations. However, since you don't, then what you should do is use 22mm pipe (at least) for the flow and return all around the property, branching off (aka teeing off) in 15mm to each radiator.

BTW, if you claim that JG advocate dry testing when they don't, then don't be so surprised when you get "set upon".

 

[Milt1978]

hay, thanks for this....

though it wasn't said by you directly the implication was there im sure in the back of your mind its what you thought, though i hope not. There are developers out there that do cut every corner they can, im not one, though i am always looking for new practices that make life easier.

as for testing. im wet testing tonight so i'll brace myself to get very wet!

 

[Softus]

Fair play Milt, but I assure you that I neither made nor implied any judgment of your integrity or thoroughness.

FYI, I think it's impressive that you're reasonably young and yet so enterprising.

 

[Milt1978]

It was work a seven day a week, 12 hour days or the dole! tough choice!

Saying that for the amount of TAX i have to pay out i some times wonder!

hay, thanks

 

[EliteHeat]

22mm carries about 17kW of heat, 15mm carries 5kW. Determine the load and the sizing is clear.