Spraying emulsion

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Shropshire
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Will I be able to spray emulsion with this compressor spec?
Max Pressure - 10 bar, 145 psi
Litre/min Displacement - 240
Litre/min FAD @7 bar - 138
Compressor Noise (db @ 1mtr) - 74.8
Noise ( db @ 1 mtr) - 96
Voltage - 230
Output (HP) - 2.5
Output (kw) - 1.8
Tank Litre - 20

with this gun?
Working Pressure: 43 to 64 psi (3 to 4.5 bar)
Air Consumption: 7 to 12.4 cfm (198 to 350 ltr/min). Bigger setups consume more air

Thanks
 
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More to the point - WHY would you want to spray emulsion?
 
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A short pile roller will give a good finish for emulsion , though as stated not a good finish for door unless they are untreated timber and you add three coats of varnish.
 
Emulsion is difficult to attomise.

If you want a decent finish using a compressor get a cheap HVLP gun (the supplier will be able to tell you if the compressor is up to the job- sorry I have a turbine version so don't know too much about compressors, 20L does sound very small though, the gun below uses 10 CFM which might mean you risk burning out the motor.

eg

http://www.spraygunshop.co.uk/spray-guns/suction-feed/RF601AS Suction Feed Spraygun

It is just one I picked at random.

HVLP produces are less bounce back than conventional. Turbine versions are noisier but very portable

eg

951682_xl.jpg


I normally spray acid cat (aka 2K or 2 pack) but they contain isocyanates which are very toxic but they are lovely to work with and sand, drying in minutes. Morrells might be able to suggest which of their waterbased finishes are best suited to your set up.

http://www.morrells.co.uk/products/wood/15

Make sure you check which needle size (for the gun) you should be using (potentially extra layout). Also which kind of respirators will be sufficient

You could always consider hiring a small turbine unit and gun

http://www.hss.com/g/61461/Hvlp-Universal-Spray-Kit.html

spraying will give you the highest quality finish but will require much more sanding and prep than a hand painted finish

Do not be tempted to go for a high sheen finish- it will show every spec of dust in the finish. Most of the units I spray are about 30% which is much shinier than it sounds.

The cheapest option is to use a roller. Another option would be airless spraying (of which I have no experience)[/img]
 
Thanks opps. I think you've confirmed what I already knew so I'll have to either use a brush and roller or go down the hiring route. I've read that as long as the mdf is prepped well and good paint is used the finish should come out very well just using the brush and roller.
 
Thanks opps. I think you've confirmed what I already knew so I'll have to either use a brush and roller or go down the hiring route. I've read that as long as the mdf is prepped well and good paint is used the finish should come out very well just using the brush and roller.

Hand painting will be more forgiving. brushes and rollers are able to "push" paint into tiny holes/imperfections (unlike spray paint).

When handpainting MDF cabinets I use leyland Acrylic primer/UC. It is a substandard product but it doesn't clog my sand paper like most other acrylic primers do (it is also dirt cheap, about a tenner from toolstation). When dry I sand it with 180 or 240 grit stearate coated paper. I use random orbital sanders connected to dust extractors but it can be done by hand.

whilst sanding you will notice that the primer has caused the fibres to swell slightly, you will also notice parallel lines in the finish (a result of the manufacture process). I pretty much sand almost through the primer, having treated it as a very fine filler.

I then dust/vacuum off the MDF, looking for any larger imperfections that need to be filled with Red Devil OneTime filler (which is sanded when filled).

I generally add some Floetrol to the leyland to help the acrylic primer flow but there have been times when I have run out and resorted to adding a drop of water.

The next coat is Dulux Trade oil based eggshell. I add the following to it
1. Terebene- an oxidising agent to help speed the curing process.
2. Owatrol- this helps the paint flow and level and enables a longer wet edge 9ie it slows down the initial paint drying).
3 A little bit of white spirit to thin the paint.

The next day i sand with 320 or 400 grit. Dust/vacuum again and apply the final coat of eggshell.

Depending on the colour you might need to apply a third eggshell.

In the old days i used to use rollers and then drag a brush over it to get even tramlines but now i use these paint pads for the larger areas

http://www.marinemegastore.com/product.asp?src=GBASE&pf_id=AQU_Q01811&jump=8&cat_id=MAIPAI004

(I would never use any of the foam backed paint pads made by other firms). the pad is faster than rolling and allows more even coverage and more subtle brush marks. Do not over load it or press too hard. drag it as you would a brush but allow it to twist slightly (so that you don't get a thick build up at the edges). I apply the paint quickly and zig-zag the pad to lay the paint off before then dragging it to get my parallel paint lines.

You will still need a brush for smaller areas and where the pad will not fit.

The replacement pads are about 6.50 but you can keep them in a Brushmate so that the are fresh for the next day.

Although 3 or 4 coats and lots of sanding sounds time consuming, spraying would require 3 or 4 coats and a hell of a lot more sanding (and cost).
 

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