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Staircase spindles / rail

Discussion in 'Decorating and Painting' started by Mattatooi, 21 Jul 2015.

  1. Mattatooi

    Mattatooi

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    Yes applying Zinnser, hoping 2 coats would do it.

    Robbie, could you expand a bit about adding walnut stain? How so? How much should I be adding etc?

    Cheers
     
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  3. Gerrydelasel

    Gerrydelasel

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    You can also use coloured wax like Briwax
     
  4. Mattatooi

    Mattatooi

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    Oh forgot to ask. Regarding top coat paint for spindles. As I am applying Zinseer, Was looking at getting crown trade paint, because I think its better quality? Should I be going for eggshell or acrylic eggshell ?
     
  5. Mattatooi

    Mattatooi

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    Ok Update. I have put this project off for so long due to many life commitments, but I finally have started at last!

    I ended up going for dark stain. I used "Johnstones Trade Woodworks Satin Woodstain" in Rosewood. I have applied two coats, and the colour looks great. Due to my amateur skills its gonna need another coat. However it currently is not as smooth as it was when it was all sanded down. Couple areas feel rough, and most of it feels smooth. Is there something I am doing wrong here? I rubbed it all down with white spirit before application and waited 24 hours between coats.

    Sanded all down;
    [​IMG]

    2 coats
    [​IMG]

    Close ups;
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    I was going to sand with a very fine grit, is that a bad idea as it has now two coats of stain on it? Cannot seem to find much advice on sanding between coats of stain.

    Anyone recommend what to do to get a smooth finish?

    Thanks
     
  6. Gerrydelasel

    Gerrydelasel

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    The first time bare wood gets wet, the grain raises. You then have to sand it smooth, so when it gets wet again (e.g. when you apply some stain) the grain no longer raises. It sound like you may have missed this step. You can sand gently between stains, but try to get everything looking even all over, otherwise you will see the areas that weren't sanded as much as others. Use fine paper (600 grade will probably do) just to take the surface roughness off.

    When you come to do the spindles, dampen them with water first to raise the grain. Once dry, sand them smooth (I use 400 grade for this myself). Then they're ready for staining.
     
    Last edited: 22 Feb 2016
  7. Mattatooi

    Mattatooi

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    I sanded it all back and it was all smooth, rubbed down with white spirit and then applied woodstain. Perhaps not smooth enough? I used 240 grit at end.

    If I start to sand and smooth I am going to need to put quite a few coats again ? Is 240 grit too harsh, I need to go as fine as 600 ?

    I am painting the spindles, not staining.
     
  8. Gerrydelasel

    Gerrydelasel

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    No, if you use fine grit just to take the tiny knobbles off, I would expect one coat of stain to be enough.

    Yes. You would probably get away with 400 grit though, if you eventually wax or varnish the banister. Do not sand through the stain; just flatten the tiny imperfections in the surface at the moment. Gentle hand rubbing, that's all.
     
  9. Mattatooi

    Mattatooi

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    Yes I was considering putting varnish on top. So just flatten imperfections, apply final coat of stain? What varnish you recommend for this? Is POLYURETHANE the best for this?

    Thanks for fast reply btw.
     
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  11. Gerrydelasel

    Gerrydelasel

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    I don't know much about varnish, as I tend to wax everything. Certainly a lot of people swear by poly. Maybe someone else will chime in.
     
    Last edited: 24 Feb 2016
  12. chappers

    chappers

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    as said de-nib it back with 400 grit. I would wax it, that way it will age to a natural patina with use, but if you want it to keep that pristine look then a mat warmish would probably be the way to go, but it may discolour over time.
     
  13. Mattatooi

    Mattatooi

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    Yup got 3rd coat on after de-nib sanding, and im very happy. Its turned out pretty smooth indeed. I thought varnish would make it more hard wearing than wax would, but honestly don't know much about it. Before applying varnish/wax etc, how long should I wait to allow paint to fully set etc before applying. I know it "dries" in 16-24 hours.

    Also, should I apply varnish before I start on spindle paint work? I had not started spindles untill I got staining done, as you can get drips etc. No problem as I can sand out them before painting if I miss any bits I didint get wiped when it was wet. Will be applying Zinseer Bin as undercoat.

    Thanks
     
  14. chappers

    chappers

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    should be ok after 24 hours and then I would get it varnished as soon as possible before grubby hands get all over it. Also I would varnish before painting as any paint getting into the grain pattern would require some hard sanding to remove, whereas the zinseer would probably undercoat fine over a bit of varnish residue.
    Looks good by the way, I am just about to do similar to revive a 100 year old newel top and handrail, would love to see the finished article
     
  15. Mattatooi

    Mattatooi

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    Gonna get varnish on this weekend. Quick question. The wood stain I used was solvent based. Do I need to apply solvent based varnish or can I use water based varnish, ie quick dry stuff? was just gonna use the Johnstones Polyurethane Varnish or Quick Dry Polyurethane Varnish.
     
  16. Gerrydelasel

    Gerrydelasel

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    The solvent will have evaporated by now, so you can use water-based varnish.
     
  17. Chri5

    Chri5

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    Top trick I was taught is to use a fine grade wire wool. Make up a golf ball and run it over the whole rail keeping with the grain.

    It takes out nibs, smooths and keys perfectly.
     
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