Stanley Gas Fired 80k Twin System cooker

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We moved into a house late last summer that has a Stanley Gas Fired 80k Twin System cooker. We have an installation manual that shows the Product ID as 63AR5080 but no operation manual – we’ve had a look online and 63AR5080 only leads to guidance on the Brandon model which I don’t think ours it.

Our understanding is that when first installed, the controls on the front of the Stanley (photo uploaded) was set-up to control both the hot water/heating and obviously for cooking. However, the previous owners changed this so that the controls on the front of the Stanley only controlled the hot water and cooking. The heating is now instead controlled by a thermostat in our hallway and obviously when that kicks in, the Stanley then provides the heat.

Where things have got warmer over the last week or two, we’ve noticed that when the hot water comes on for a couple of hours in the morning and evening as per the programme set, it’s also sending heat to the radiators. i.e. so even though the thermostat in the hall-way showed a target temperature of well under the actual room temp, the hot water being on still causes the rads to heat up. We have checked the thermostat and the symbol that shows when a ‘call’ for heat has been made from the Stanley def isn't on. This is driving us a bit nuts and as a result we’ve turned off the hot water programming on the Stanley and are using our back-up immersion heater for the hot water – problem solved for now but not ideal.

Any thoughts or ideas gratefully received. All the best.

Pete
 

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This is driving us a bit nuts

He he. I know the feeling.
I sorted one of these out for a neighbour a few weeks ago.
Which was a Brandon.

Same timer controller as yours.
Fitted a new three port mid position valve and a Danfoss 2 channel programmer, room stat and cylinder stat.
The CH slider on the existing stanley controller is switched to continous and provides the 2 channel programmer with power.
And the rocker switch is left on central heating/hot water all the time.


When cooking, the cylinder accepts the heat dump.
The controller in the stanley will have provision for opening the CH circuit when cooking is operating.
Though I never connected it. The 3 port valve can be operated manually if needed.
Lets say when you are doing a lot of cooking.
 
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Thanks for your responses. Have googled what a 3 port valve looks like and we’re struggling to locate one by our HW tank in the airing cupboard. Does that sound possible that we may not have one?
 
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The controller in the stanley will have provision for opening the CH circuit when cooking is operating.

Incidentally, the reason I never connected the interstat is because from the wiring diagram, preventing the CH/HW burner from firing up, never seemed possible.
Stanley's own controls may have a relay fitted to do just that. But I never tested it and no one could tell me any different.
 
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Quite possible.
Can you see any type of valve?

right have found something that may be useful. Not the best of photos but the valve is currently set to auto. At the other end it says manual/open.
 

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Looks like a honeywell valve.

Can you see 3 pipes connected from it?
Assuming its a 3 port you either have a wiring issue, a faulty three port or something else.
 
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Yes seems to a Honeywell valve. In fact it looks like we actually have two separate 2 port valves - guessing one for the HW and one for the CH. Looks like both were on auto, could it be worth moving that to manual and if so, what would you expect to see happen? Sorry for all the naive questions - entirely possible we may need to get a plumber round to replace one of these valves - just trying to get as much clear in my head as possible. Cheers
 
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Switch off all power to the system.Try moving the Auto Manual levers; there should be resistance to them against the return spring. If one of them is floppy, then that needs repairing. Usually just the synchron motor needs replacing.
 
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Thanks Oilhead.

Yes with power off to the CH, there’s resistance against the return spring. When power turned on, there’s no resistance - and when you then turn off again the lever goes back to the auto position. From what I’ve read this is sounds fine.

Same with the HW. And in fact, when the HW I turned on, there’s no resistance but there is resistance with the other CH valve. Which again, all seems fine.

I have noticed that when the lever goes back to auto, they don’t go all the way across. Maybe 80% across - see photo - could this mean that they could be sticking and not fully closing or is what I’m describing quite normal?
 

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Not returning to full point is normal. When you say with the power on, do you mean just the power switched on, or with the programmer calling for heat. If the valve is opening when you just switch on power without selecting a demand, then you have a problem within the controls circuits. Asit is new to you, you don't know how long it has been not working.
 
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Sorry could have explained better. When I said power on, I meant with power switched on and the programmer calling for heat.
 
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