Strapping a wall,

[trialscot]

Hi,
I have to strap and plasterboard this previously external wall.
How close should I go to the edge of the knock-through with the 2x2s, using hammerfixings, without risking the bricks crumbling. And bearing in mind that the door frame will also need to be fixed on the end of the wall.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

elaborate and pictures if you could

 

[trialscot]

Sorry, forgot to post pic.

Untitled

• trialscot
• 10 Jun 2010
• 1

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

So you battening out a wall, to prepare for plasterboard.
As you state you are putting a doorway in, the door frame can be fixed to the brickwork of the opening, but I would still install battens as close to open as possible. If you drill off centre of the 2''x2'' you can get a good 1.5'' from edge of brickwork, or altermative instead of using 2x2 for this area use a larger section may be 4x2 and the drill hole can be set further away.

 

[trialscot]

Many thanks for that, 4x2 sounds good as they seem to be pretty poor 1930s bricks.

 

[noseall]

Whenever battening a wall, we tend to fix a broad top and bottom rail (i.e. one against the ceiling and one against the floor) so that we can skew fix the vertical battens into these prior to drill-fixing them down the length.

It makes setting out and fixing a lot easier.

The top and bottom rail would typically be 100mm wide.

 

[trialscot]

That seems eminently sensible!. I've just been faffing around looking for something to hold the first vertical 2x2 in place while I mark and drill.
I have some 4x2s the right length so that's just what I'm off to do.
Thanks again.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

you do need sole and top plates, if it was a partion stud it would be using 100mm stud,but as it is a batten out 50mm will do.
Link to a stud structure; that may help in your design http://www.diydata.com/projects/partition/partition_framework.php