Stubborn screw removal

Sometimes doing it up a tiny bit helps.
stopping the bit slipping needs a screwdriver that fits. Sometimes a tiny bit of valve grinding paste in the screw head helps with grip.
As said, a cheap impact driver works. Not a drill - a large driver that has a spring (?) inside. You set the direction and whack the tool with a hammer that will simultaneously twist the bit.
 
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Or just hold the pressure on and give it a few whacks with a hammer while turning.
 
Chunky side cutters if you can get hold of the head. Looks like they are slightly proud of the latch, etc.
As if you are trying to cut the head into 2 semi-circles.


Have removed lots of stubborn screws this way.
 
Drill the screw heads away, remove the furniture then file or grind the remaining stubs flat with the timber.
John :)
 
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Chunky side cutters if you can get hold of the head. Looks like they are slightly proud of the latch, etc.
As if you are trying to cut the head into 2 semi-circles.


Have removed lots of stubborn screws this way.

Really?

I wouldn't expect those to cut through the shaft of the screw let alone the head of a hardened screw
 
Drill the screw heads away, remove the furniture then file or grind the remaining stubs flat with the timber.
John :)

That does however require him to reposition the door furniture.

I carry TCT drill bits for drilling out completely cammed out screw heads (in my rucksack). And then, as per previous posts I use mole grips to unwind the stub.
 
If you can"t unscrew them, and the ironmongery is being scrapped, it is generally possible to cut a new slot in the screw head using a Dremel-type tool and a cutting disc. The screws can then be removed with an old-fashioned straight screwdriver
 
Really?

I wouldn't expect those to cut through the shaft of the screw let alone the head of a hardened screw
You bite into the head (point of the cutters towards the screw, handles towards you) and rotate
Like pliers/mole grips but less likely to just slip on the head
 
An update, don't have access to impact driver, and drill was just slipping. Also tried the hammer and posi technique someone mentioned, but that wasn't working either.

So I ended up drilling the heads enough that I could yank the ironmongery out. Some of the remains I managed to unscrew with mole grips. But some were to far gone, and left stuck in the wood.

I am surprised at how much the gate has shifted suw to warping. I'm hoping it has stabilized now, as all this is a pain in the arse.

I think part of the problem maybe I need better screwdrivers. Maybe some Stanley ones or something.
 
Stanley aren't what they used to be.

Too late now, but was going to say does the latch actually need to be removed, could it have been bent to work on the gate.
 
Any recommendations on a decent set that isn't mega expensive?

The latch in the photo wasn't the main reason I was fiddling with the gate, it was actually the misaligned slide bolts not pictured which I also repositioned.

I'm just hoping when we come out of summer back into rainy season, it doesn't start warping the other way!
 
Decent screwdrivers, I have sets of Wera, Sealey Premier (hammer through), and Aldi (hammer through). Not saying all Aldi screwdrivers are good, but this set I bought a few years ago are fine and live in a toolbox in the van.


I try and look after the good screwdrivers, I have old crappy ones for levering things open etc



As others have said, can't beat a cordless impact driver for getting out stubborn screws.
 
Halfords aren’t bad, and often like dfs, always on sale
 
I'm wondering if as well as the whacking/torque element of an impact drill, the screwdriver bit used is important too.

When I tried with my drill, there seemed to be enough torque, it just kept slipping out the cross. Even when putting my body weight behind it.
 

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