Stud wall for extra insulation on an old house good idea?

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Currently i am in the process of doing up my living room. Everything has been moved out of there i will be replacing my fire and rip out my fireplace and i am pulling all wallpaper off the walls and going to bare plaster.

From the looks of it the plaster underneath is rather old id say a good 50% of it is blown. My house is a rather old detached property (1890) and has a double brick wall with no cavity, so as you can imagine it lets out heat rather easily and is prone to condensation problems. On the outside of the property it is rendered with some sort of finish.

In the living room there are 2 external walls 1 of which has a window and the other my chimney breast. The external wall with my chimney breast also has a a garage where the external wall has not been rendered, this garage is more of a "lean too" though and is very old and built out of old rail sleepers many years ago and is open and exposed.

My plans were the following:

1) To simply fix the blown plaster by removing it.

2) Run some cables under the floorboards for network and my speaker AV system

3) Then get the plasterer to fix the holes left by blown plaster and reskim the walls and plaster over the artex on the ceiling.

I would like my house to be warmer and i only want to decorate once rather than twice in the short term so i am now considering placing a stud wall on my external walls in the living room then placing good quality insulation in and then placing plasterboard over the top.

Simply put is this a good idea?
Are there better solutions to insulating a room without needing the effort of building 2 new walls?
Does anyone have any additional advice in my project?
 
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Yes, it is a good idea.

For best effect I would build it with its own sole and header plates fixed to floor and ceiling, rather than attaching it to the old wall. Leave a little gap behind if you can sacrifice the room. When I did this in front of a single skin brick wall to the part of my utility room that used to be a coal bunker, I used 3x2 timber (you could probably get away with 2x2 if you wanted to keep the extra inch in the room), with 50mm foil-backed Celotex in between.

If you leave a 1/4 in gap round the edge of the Celotex and fill this with squirty foam (use the low expansion stuff for doors and windows), it will fix it rigidly between the timber - you can punch your hand into it and it won't move. The foil will give you a vapour barrier to stop moisture from the warm air in the room migrating through the insulation and condensing.

For completeness of vapour barrier you could tape over all the timbers between the bits of Celotex, using Celotex tape. Gaffer tape would probably be as good. I didn't bother. Then plasterboard and skim over the top. Obviously after you've run any cabling behind the stud wall.

If it's mains or lighting cable, clip it to the studwork before insulating, within the safe zones.

I'm not a builder, just someone who's spent years pulling his house apart, so someone may have better advice than this.

Cheers
Richard
 
I appreciate the advice! Is it worth attempting to do this myself or getting a professional to do it for me perhaps?
 
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i have done this on an old 18th century house with no cavity also. i used 35x25 batten tanalised and treated. then just screw on foam backed 12.5mm or even 9.5mm plasterboard ( it starts at 20mm backed and goes upto 80mm i think. i used 50mm backed)average £30 a 8x4 sheet. you dont get cold bridging at joints then, you also get an air gap between wall and board. also you just screw battens straight on wall at 600mm centres. bit of celotex tape on joint and skim. job done. the one i did has been donme now for over three years and no problems yet?
 
Its interesting its now November, my room is still in a mess and I have yet to get this sorted. Just got my fire fitted and started to look into the stud walling again!

As I said before, my handyman skills are pretty terrible but someone quoted for basically building my stud walling, insulating it with silver backed kingspan and then plasterboard over the top of the fresh stud wall £480 inclusive of materials.. Seemed like a decent guy, plus there are going to be some difficult areas where I think a skilled tradesman would be better suited.

1) Going forwards is there anything I need to make sure of?
2) Does the price he quoted me seem reasonable for the work involved?
3) Should I be removing the plaster browning before the stud is fitted to try and retain as much of my room as possible?

livingroom.jpg
 
How thick is the insulation going to be how big is the room ? Does. His price inc plastering? If all good then rip his arm off but pin him to a written fixed price or. He might try and increase price once he realises how much the materials are.

Also ask what he is going to do around the window area as it will need new reveals on the sides and top and also a bigger cill added?
 
I have literally taken the whole wall back to bare brick and ripped out everything else including coving and skirting boards the joiner is here now.

Anything he should be doing to fill the gap between the floorboards and brick or anything which should be going onto the exposed brick?
 
I have literally taken the whole wall back to bare brick and ripped out everything else including coving and skirting boards the joiner is here now.

Anything he should be doing to fill the gap between the floorboards and brick or anything which should be going onto the exposed brick?

If he knows what he's doing, I'd just let him get on with it.

Cheers
Richard
 
Sorry for the worry just worried about things not being right considering all the effort and permanent damage I've caused by taking everything so bare!
 
Sorry for the worry just worried about things not being right considering all the effort and permanent damage I've caused by taking everything so bare!

It'll be fine. I wouldn't have bothered removing the plaster, but you haven't done any damage by doing it - it's not the plaster that's holding the wall up.

Cheers
Richard
 

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