Suitable plasterboard rawl plugs for 40 inch TV

[HenryGregory]

I would like to mount a TV on the wall in my bedroom using an articulating mount.
I got a company in to do another room, they were very expensive and didn't do a great job to be honest.

They used the following mount:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brateck-...028383?hash=item2d060cc49f:g:R5YAAOSw3e5eae8u

I didn't pay enough attention when they installed it to see which plugs they used but they screwed the left hand side of the mount into the wall joist and the right hand into the plaster.

Can someone tell me what parts I would need to get from Screwfix (ideally as they are open and local to me), so I can do it myself?
I have basic drill bits, but that is all.
I need an articulating mount so I can angle the tv towards the bed.

This where it needs to go...

I am going to run the wires in trunking rather than behind the plaster.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Personally I wouldn't trust any plasterboard fixing to handle that size and weight of product with so few fixings on such a narrow base in just PB. One of the best types of PB fixing for carrying weight directly on PB is the umbrella type fixing, but they do need to be correctly installed using the appropriate fixing tool. Any other fixings would need to be firmly anchored into either a stud or masonry, but as I said, this isn't the approach I'd tske if at all possible if given this task

 

[Tigercubrider]

It would help if you know the weight of the tv.

Most are really light these days but some weigh a ton.

My work involves me rigging loads of TVs in temporary locations and they are normally on flat brackets. I generally have 20-30 in the stores. You may be better off fitting a piece of ply/mdf to the wall so you can hit timber and then screw the bracket to the sheet material. If you want to be fancy you could cut the sheet so all sides are 45° and paint it the same as the wall.

 

[Lucid]

The problem here is leverage.

Try opening a paint tin with a 2p coin and compare the effort required to when using the biggest screwdriver you might own. The longer lever requires far less force to shift the tin lid. It's the same with any sort of TV bracket that holds the screen a distance away from the wall. The TV doesn't have to weigh a lot to put quite a considerable leverage force on whatever the fixings are attached to.

Plasterboard has different weight loading capacities depending on the direction the force is acting. For example, a 1000mm double panel radiator filled with water is far heavier than a TV, yet I'd still be happy to hang a couple of the fixing points off sound plasterboard with say Gripit fixings because most of the weight is acting downwards where the plasterboard is relatively-strong. There's very little force trying to pull the rad off the wall in to the room. The same goes for a standard close-mount TV bracket.

This wouldn't be the case with an articulated bracket. Here, the length of the extension arm acts as a force multiplier just as the long screwdriver does with the paint tin lid. Also, the force is acting on the plasterboard to pull out the fixings at the top and push them in at the bottom (a rotating force). These are directions where plasterboard is relatively weak. Think about how easy it is to put a dent in plasterboard.

I would either go with @Tigercubrider 's idea of something to span the timber battens (if present) or maybe a corner bracket to spread the load across two axis directions.

If this or any other reply was helpful to you, then please do the decent thing and click the T-H-A-N-K-S button. It appears when you hover the mouse pointer near the Quote Multi-quote buttons. It costs you nothing. This is the proper way to show your thanks for the time and help someone gave you.

ebay link: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Cantilev...870527&hash=item1a598d3830:g:OBEAAOSw8o9eFs9o

 

[HERTS P&D]

Hi Lucid, I am liking your post/s as I have found your posts are very in-depth with practical knowledge and helpful hints.

Andy

 

[Lucid]

Hi Lucid, I am liking your post/s as I have found your posts are very in-depth with practical knowledge and helpful hints.

Andy

Hi Andy, I appreciate the sentiment, thanks. I would ask though that you use Thanks on any posts - not just mine but anyone's you find useful.

The way I see it is that Like is for when you agree with a sentiment

'My dog likes swimming.'
- 'Oh yeah? Mine does too!'

Hit up a like on that because you agree with the sentiment.

Thanks though is for different situations.

'I'm looking for a new 18v battery hammer drill. Looking at DeWalt, Makita, Bosch. Any recommendations?'
- 'Get in on our power-buy with Fred's Tools Co. Makita at half price.'
'Great tip!'

You see, that's something different. The person got help. When someone helps you, or gives you something useful in R.L. you say Thanks.

Like and Thanks aren't quite the same thing, but Facebook has conditioned people to use Like as a universal positive, so I can understand why a lot of folk now mix them up.

Thanks and Likes can be added or taken away from posts. It's possible then to change a vote or rescind it after casting.

Here, in DIYnot, Thanks is the one that counts for something.

 

[ericmark]

I have a box of fixings, and I have to consider how easy it was to drill the wall before selecting the fixing, there is some wood behind most plaster board and some times tapping on the board gives you a good idea where it is, so I try for that first, so small drill bit to start with, I will number so you can refer back these (1)

one is sure it has a good area to hold against, but with new plaster board these (2)

are much faster and easier no need to drill hole first however I have had a fair few fail specially with old plaster board, these (3)

also designed for plaster board, I always liked these (4)

it spreads the area but to remove they can be a problem, but there is one thing common about them all, there is no weight given, as it all depends on the plaster board. With the (1) there is a tool to ensure they have expanded,

I have one but never used it, was a Lidi special, but with plaster board it was never designed to take a lot of weight, and for some thing heavy the normal way is to use many fixings to spread the weight, and easy way to do that is fix a batten on wall first so weight is spread, however that can be counter productive as plaster board will take a fair weight down, but very limited pushing or pulling on it so idea is to get weight as close to the wall as you can, the less it sticks out, the better.

 

[Jeffrey Conlon]

Before you do anything find all the wooden battons and work from there, anything to do with fixing tom plasterboard only forget about it!!

 

[sxturbo]

This would be a better bracket to get, it has more mounting points to spread the load.

My advice reflects that from above, the leverage from the extension is the problem.

 

[Apacheuk]

not used them but have a look at these https://www.screwfix.com/p/gripit-plasterboard-fixing-25-x-14mm-8-pack/682gk

 

[Sureitsoff?]

is the small section of wall to the right a brick chimney breast? could you use that to mount an articulating bracket as you could get stronger fixings in to it. if you want to mount to the large wall, by taking the right hand switch off the wall you might be able to see and measure where the stud is. then the next stud to the right will probably be 600mm further to the right. if you can get a bracket with a wide enough wall plate to span both studs that would make the job easier. if not do as suggested and fit a piece of plywood to span the studs then fix the bracket to the ply