M10/M12 bolts? Ok if I were to redo I may aswell lower the ceiling even further to below the steel beams (parallel but underneath) overall ceiling height 2.3m. Basically span a 3x2" from load bearing wall to load bearing wall. So this way could I just use 2 x timber to masonry joist hangers ( one either end) with no need to fix the timber to the steel beam (which is above)? Would this work?
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Suspended ceiling unusual framing method
- Thread starter TryAgain1
- Start date
You could use joist hangers, or you could fix some timber to the underside of the rsj using some screws like this to go through the timber and into the flange:
I can’t envision what you’re trying to do with m10/12 bolts, but they seem oversized for the space you’ve got to cover. I’m having trouble following exactly what your desired goal is for a finished ceiling, flush or otherwise, but don’t be afraid to use some of the above mentioned screws (availability in different sizes) to fix wood to an rsj.
You don’t need to pre-drill the steel with them, just use your drill/driver with a suitable torx bit and apply some pressure. It takes a little while for the self tapering to work through the steel (so you’ll feel like it’s not working), but then all of a sudden it’ll get through and the thread with tighten v quickly.
I can’t envision what you’re trying to do with m10/12 bolts, but they seem oversized for the space you’ve got to cover. I’m having trouble following exactly what your desired goal is for a finished ceiling, flush or otherwise, but don’t be afraid to use some of the above mentioned screws (availability in different sizes) to fix wood to an rsj.
You don’t need to pre-drill the steel with them, just use your drill/driver with a suitable torx bit and apply some pressure. It takes a little while for the self tapering to work through the steel (so you’ll feel like it’s not working), but then all of a sudden it’ll get through and the thread with tighten v quickly.
The area I'm trying to cover is about 1.5m x 1m. If I starting again I may aswell lower the ceiling to 2.3m which is about 10cm below the steel beams. I could put 3x2" CLS timber spanning wall to wall below the steels (avoiding them). This way do I still need to fix the timber to the steels (which are above)?
That was put up in a hurry with no planning. Yep I admit it!
I'd just box the beam in and keep the original ceiling height.
Think about a steaming pan. With the beam that steam will rise and be mostly contained within the kitchen. Immediately or shortly after, the kitchen hob extractor will suck it out of the building.
With your lower kitchen ceiling it will instead spill out into your living area and never return to the kitchen.
Think about a steaming pan. With the beam that steam will rise and be mostly contained within the kitchen. Immediately or shortly after, the kitchen hob extractor will suck it out of the building.
With your lower kitchen ceiling it will instead spill out into your living area and never return to the kitchen.
But if you really want the clean look of a lowered ceiling, which I do agree would look better, then at least keep it as high as possible.
I'd butt the joists up to the beam and keep the plasterboard as close as possible to the underside of the beam. Enough wood to support its 30cm span, or possibly none at all.
I'd butt the joists up to the beam and keep the plasterboard as close as possible to the underside of the beam. Enough wood to support its 30cm span, or possibly none at all.
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