Suspended floor covering?

[RonnyRaygun]

Don't glue to the joists, you might need to get the boards back up one day!!
Would help with deflection of the joists though

Wherever you are tiling you need to put down WBP ply. Normal floorboards will deflect independently of one another and the grout and maybe the tiles will soon crack

 

[noseall]

There is nothing wrong with chipboard flooring. Use P5 grade which is typically green

Absolute garbage.

 

[^woody^]

LOL ..... perhaps its a training issue?

 

[^woody^]

No, you will need to use ply throughout.

The problem with floorboards is that they will flex independently of one another when walked on,

If ply sheets are used, then there is no T&G joint an these will flex at the unsupported butt joints

The problem with floor boards is not that they flex - they don't due to the T&G joint, but rather that they can shrink across the width. So a thin ply sheet is used on top

 

[noseall]

LOL ..... perhaps its a training issue?

Aw come on Woodhandle, chipboard has to be the absolute lowest of the low when it comes to furnishing a floor.

The stuff is complete and utter low-end tat.

Same as 600mm spacings.

 

[RonnyRaygun]

If ply sheets are used, then there is no T&G joint an these will flex at the unsupported butt joints

That's why I said to put noggins under the joins.

The problem with floor boards is not that they flex - they don't due to the T&G joint, but rather that they can shrink across the width. So a thin ply sheet is used on top

Fair point, alhough I would still replace with ply as otherwise you've got issues with matching the heights of the boards.
Also I would think putting a thin sheet of ply over the top could cause other probems.

 

[^woody^]

Aw come on Woodhandle, chipboard has to be the absolute lowest of the low when it comes to furnishing a floor.

The stuff is complete and utter low-end tat.

No I think it is OK

It's an engineered board and as such there is no (well insignificant) seasonal movement. So all the problems of squeaks are related purely to the joists (unaclimatised, underspec'd, inadequately nogged etc)

Properly fitted, glued and fixed to a suitable floor, there is nothing wrong with them.

In fact, I've probably come across more problems, bounce and creaks with traditional T&G in new build which has been fitted and then shrunk and joints opened, edges split, and then the creaks and bounce start.

 

[noseall]

Crap to handle.

Crap to fit.

Crap to work with maintenance wise.

Crap when wet.

Crap reports from people who have it.

Chipboard = C.R.A.P.

 

[Norcon]

Concrete floors are better. They don't squeak and they don't burn down.
And of course woodworm can't turn it too dust.

 

[^woody^]

Concrete floors are better. They don't squeak and they don't burn down.
And of course woodworm can't turn it too dust.

It takes a few buckets up the stairs for a loft conversion though

 

[RonnyRaygun]

Everything in Norcon's house is made of concrete...floors, walls, stairs, bathroom suites, sofas, beds, windows etc etc

 

[^woody^]

Crap to handle.

Crap to fit.

Crap to work with maintenance wise.

Crap when wet.

Crap reports from people who have it.

Chipboard = C.R.A.P.

Easier and quicker to fit

No worse than floorboards

Like plasterboard then

Thats because of poor fitting

 

[^woody^]

Everything in Norcon's house is made of concrete...floors, walls, stairs, bathroom suites, sofas, beds, windows etc etc

.. head

 

[Norcon]

I can't think why anyone would use chip board.
Maybe their head is full of sawdust.

I've used t&g plywood a time or two. Local hardwear shop sells the stuff.

 

[RonnyRaygun]

I can't think why anyone would use chip board.
Maybe their head is full of sawdust.

I've used t&g plywood a time or two. Local hardwear shop sells the stuff.

What for? Shuttering?