SWA Cable colours (grey, black, brown)

[sparkydude]

OMG i have never seen such an abortion, the proper way to do it would have been a galvanised Y box with a stuffing gland and some flex coming out to the terminal block, your way is unsafe and to put it mildly very amateurish . Good luck with getting your sparks to connect that up as there is no way in hell you would get me near it .

Nick

 

[DCC]

Nice blanket though!

 

[Taylortwocities]

Is that all going outside somewhere?
Are those BW or CW glands?
How are the armours of the two SWA cables connected together?
How is the SWA at the house end termminated (I dread to think)?
What is the SWA cable protected by?

 

[diyfiesta]

They are not in the slightest bit inconsistent. The fact that you think they are shows that you don't even understand the difference between line (or phase) and neutral.

I must have made a mistake *asking* questions on this *diy* forum... sorry, thanks for (not) helping, appreciate it

 

[diyfiesta]

How have you connected the earth under the locknut?

What are you containing that lot in?

For earth continuity, I'd connected an earth from the steel armour via the lock nut to the same on the other side, its directly squashed under the lock nut. I can use the earth tag instead but I figured it was doing the same thing?.

Its all going to sit inside the light fitting which is a 1 metre high metal light post. The connection (shown in the second picture) doesn't take into account the SWA earthing so I used the glands on the outside of that connection box to keep the earth connected. Is that the prefered way to do it?

 

[diyfiesta]

Is that all going outside somewhere?
Are those BW or CW glands?
How are the armours of the two SWA cables connected together?
How is the SWA at the house end termminated (I dread to think)?
What is the SWA cable protected by?

It's outside but inside the light fitting off the ground, I was going to use BW but can use CW. The armours connected via the gland only if you see what I mean.

I'm not sure how I'd connect the earths together and keep in waterproof as all the connections have to sit inside the light fitting, so I don't know if using CW would be any more waterproof. bah!

 

[diyfiesta]

... the proper way to do it would have been a galvanised Y box with a stuffing gland and some flex coming out to the terminal block

What would the box act like a terminal box and you'd connect the flex from the light fitting to the SWA cables inside? then keep that box fixed on the outside somewhere? basically making all the connections inside this box?

Why is the current way unsafe? aren't they all the same connections?

 

[sparkydude]

Yes the galvanised box would connect them all together using the proper glands see here for the box It should be small enough to conceal inside the post i reckon. They are available from most wholesalers.and even some larger B+Q stores



http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CO20BXYG.html

you would connect the cables inside with connector blocks then put a lid and gasket on it to seal it. The flex coming out would go through one of these

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/EK251B.html then into your light fitting.

The box provides earth continuity through it as it is metal.

Then just re-identify your cores as mentioned previously.

I am sorry if i have come over as being all high and mighty but i just hate seeing a job done badly when it could have been done correctly with a little more thought. But as i said its best to get advice before you do it than after when yu have your sparks breathing down your neck and wanting to charge you for a re-visit once you have done it right.


any more questions feel free to ask

Nick

 

[sparkyspike]

Yes, a 20mm metal y-box would act like a JB. It would also provide a reliable earth connection for the armoured cable. There is an earth terminal in the y-box for this. So you won't need to use the locknuts or 'earth tag'.

Even though you are inside a light fitting, use CW glands. Also, use the y-box as suggested, that way there will be no exposed single-insulated cores and no way of moisture entering the gland from the end. Use a gasket on the box lid and a 20mm stuffing gland for the flex. This may seem over the top, but if there's any chance of water getting into your light fitting then it's worth it.

Oh, and perhaps you could rewire the cables so that brown is line, grey is neutral (marked blue) and black is CPC (marked green-and-yellow)!

EDIT: Or what sparkydude said!

 

[RF Lighting]

Good luck with getting your sparks to connect that up as there is no way in hell you would get me near it

There is no electrician, and with us all being born yesterday, we are all too stupid to work this out

 

[diyfiesta]

Sounds good, thanks for the tips. I *am* asking for advice (here) before getting the sparky in and am not a pro. nothing live is going through this lot tell its been checked, I'm just trying to save money by doing as much as I can upfront.

Y box's are a go I think now then, it'll have to sit outside the post though as the bottom of the post only has a small hole for access.

ta

 

[diyfiesta]

There is no electrician, and with us all being born yesterday, we are all too stupid to work this out

sorry, are you having a go at me here? do you think I'm not getting a sparky in?

 

[sparkydude]

Have you got a picture of the actual light then we can possibly come up with the best solution for you .

Nick

 

[diyfiesta]

Have you got a picture of the actual light then we can possibly come up with the best solution for you .

Nick

not a great picture I'm afraid, its a 1m high all metal post.

View media item 12043
Look though, I think I'm going to sack it all off and get the sparky in earlier than planned. I'm a bit out of my depth judging from the comments and disappointed people here don't have the patience for someone wanting to be safe and do the right thing but without all the knowledge. Thanks for the help though.

Cheers

 

[Taylortwocities]

Good luck with getting your sparks to connect that up as there is no way in hell you would get me near it

There is no electrician, and with us all being born yesterday, we are all too stupid to work this out

RF, he has multiple topics going on this one subject so you'd need to trawl through this //www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=1220173#1220173
Thats where he says he'll get an electrician in to "Part P" it.

diyfiesta, as a suggestion, it's important to just have one topic going on a subject otherwise folk dont get the full picture...