Swap outside light.

Joined
11 Oct 2006
Messages
5,481
Reaction score
1,188
Location
Edinburgh
Country
United Kingdom
20231020_160951.jpg20231020_141230.jpg
My daughter has asked me to replace this light with a security light with a P.I.R.
My idea was to put a junction box where the fitting is, and put the new light above it.
I'm sure there must a better way, would someone like to tell me it?
 
Sponsored Links
why bother with a junction box?

Plenty of lights with built in PIRs that aren't floodlights
 
why bother with a junction box?

Plenty of lights with built in PIRs that aren't floodlights
Because, I fitted two other lights for her, one on the back and one on the side, and they both came with a cable attached that was sealed into the fitting. My mate told me that they are all like that now.
Also, the cable prodruding from the wall is all that is accessible.
 
Sponsored Links
The one you linked to does usually have a junc box to connect through. The box can be hidden behind the light though.
 
The one you linked to does usually have a junc box to connect through. The box can be hidden behind the light though.
I fitted two of those on the back of her house. They don't come with a junction box, just a hard wired cable coming out of the back of the light.
 
View attachment 317775View attachment 317776
My daughter has asked me to replace this light with a security light with a P.I.R.
My idea was to put a junction box where the fitting is, and put the new light above it.
I'm sure there must a better way, would someone like to tell me it?
The worst thing that you can do is to install any "Security" light with a "built-in" PIR sensor.
The (relatively "Cheap") PIR sensor usually provided is quite likely to "fail" before the "Lamp" does !
Hence, one should install a (quality) PIR sensor separately from the lamp which it operates.

Most PIR sensors have internal connections which can act as a "Junction Box".
While connecting them together on a Wooden (Stud) wall is usually quite easy, the "trick" is to find how to connect the two together on a Masonry Wall - such as you appear to have,

Good Luck.
 
The worst thing that you can do is to install any "Security" light with a "built-in" PIR sensor.
The (relatively "Cheap") PIR sensor usually provided is quite likely to "fail" before the "Lamp" does !
Hence, one should install a (quality) PIR sensor separately from the lamp which it operates.

Most PIR sensors have internal connections which can act as a "Junction Box".
While connecting them together on a Wooden (Stud) wall is usually quite easy, the "trick" is to find how to connect the two together on a Masonry Wall - such as you appear to have,

Good Luck.
Using a separate P.I.R. and light might be the way to go. There is limited space above the hole where the cable comes out and I was trying to make the best use of what is available.
 
I have in the main got rid of my PIR lamps, cats, squirrels, and even trees waving in the wind can switch them on, and with such a powerful lamp you need a sensitive PIR to work at the distance that light covers, with tungsten 150 watt was the limit without planning permission, that's about 24 watt with LED, seems the building regulations have not caught up yet it would be around 1250 lumen so the lamp you show is really OTT.

Mine I think are around 10 watt, which is ample to see where you are going, but for a night BBQ maybe not enough, but would not want it PIR controlled for a BBQ.

I use dust till dawn smart controls, so I turn on lights only for welcome visitors, intruders I don't care if they trip over the lawn mower, serves them right they should not be there.

I put up a small outside light in the last house, likely 40 watt tungsten with a built in PIR, it worked for many years without a problem, until next door fitted an illegal flood lamp also with PIR, 300 watt quartz halogen, if neither light was triggered then no problem. But if they were triggered, then mine would switch off as theirs was so bright, then theirs would switch off, the change in inferred would cause mine to then switch on, which would trigger theirs, so like having a belisha beacon in back garden.

So now my outside light switches on at 6:30 am and off at dawn Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, milk comes latter on a Saturday.
 
What a complicated life you seem to have, Eric.

with tungsten 150 watt was the limit without planning permission, that's about 24 watt with LED, seems the building regulations have not caught up yet it would be around 1250 lumen so the lamp you show is really OTT.
Did not 500W used to be the norm and no one knew about (bothered with) planning permission for 'a light'?
 
Last edited:
So, if 30W is a bit OTT for the front door, I'll look for a lower power one.
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top