Quite. It's hardly a 21st century method. Or a way of saving electricity.
From what people have said it would be difficult to know if its on or not.
Switch or FCU which comes first in a circuit
- Thread starter gardener1214388
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Quite. It's hardly a 21st century method. Or a way of saving electricity.
From what people have said it would be difficult to know if its on or not.
Here us a thought OP.
Why not just have a switch,fuse,neon flex outlet next the to rail all in one unit ( assuming its outside the zones)?
Only one switch would be required then.
Why not just have a switch,fuse,neon flex outlet next the to rail all in one unit ( assuming its outside the zones)?
Only one switch would be required then.
You're right. When I commented (10:12 pm), I hadn't noticed that he'd done it to the OP as well - I'd only noticed what were then the last three posts in the thread (9:59, 10:02 & 10:03) - which looked like the consequence of the 'multiple posting gremlin!'He has actually deleted the content of all his posts in this thread, including the first !Unintended duplicates, I presume - the infamous forum glitch
Kind Regards, John
Whilst that's all true, I can understand the issue, in terms of 'convenience'. If someone has been in the room fairly recently (and one wasn't sure whether or not they'd switched off the towel rail), and the rail is 'warmish', one would probably have to 'go away' for a very substantial number of (not necessarily 'few') minutes in order to determine whether it was getting warmer or cooler.
Kind Regards, John
That's obviously a theoretical possibility. However, I have to say that, if it were my house, even if it was 'outside of zones', I don't think I would want a hand-operated switch in a position where, almost by definition, one might well have wet hands.
Kind Regards, John
A towel rail is of no use if you only turn it on when you go into the bathroom and then turn it off when you leave.
Agreed, and it's even less use if you find it in a semi-warm state and don't know whether it is warming up or cooling down!
Kind Regards, John
You do know if you don't turn it off and use its integral thermostat to keep it at the temperature you want.
Wow. They even have thermostats.
I think I would turn it off at night, in summer and when away for the weekend as a minimum.
I think I would turn it off at night, in summer and when away for the weekend as a minimum.
That's obviously true, but I'm not sure that it wouldn't necessarily be cost-effective to keep it 'at the temperature you want' 24/7, given than many people are out at work for 8-10 hours a day, asleep for another ~8 hours and not in the bathroom for much of the remaining 6-8h.
Kind Regards, John
But if you want it to dry a number of towels which have all been made damp in the morning...
Please note folks; I now have only one strand of hair hair left on my head; so would anyone in simple English state in sequence and detail how they would connect a simple bog standard B & Q electric 250 Watt towel heated rail with integrally fitted live, neutral and earth wires through a tiled studded plaster boarded wall with a pull switch fitting in the bathroom ceiling with a visibly illuminated indicater; not a flag; too difficult to see easily and also if they would power it all from a power socket ring mains circuit or if not available a lighting circuit; both RCD protected to the main consumer board; remember folks I now only have on strand of hair before I pull it out in frustration and scream for help.
The simple way is off the light circuit
To pull switch and down to towel rail.
Simples.
To pull switch and down to towel rail.
Simples.
If you insist on making a simple job difficult, then:
Circuit with power -> 3A FCU - > Ceiling switch with neon -> flex connection plate -> towel rail.
Cables in trunking, concealed in the wall, surface clipped, makes no difference.
Could be lighting circuit or socket circuit.
This is a suitable DP ceiling switch: http://www.qvsdirect.com/mk-16a-d-p-1-way-pull-cord-ceiling-switch-without-mount-block
which fixes to a block like this one containing a neon: http://www.qvsdirect.com/mk-mounting-block-with-neon-6-to-16a
The more usual and much easier method is to get one of these:
fitted in the wall next to the towel rail, and connect to a power supply, typically via a nearby socket in the adjacent room.
Circuit with power -> 3A FCU - > Ceiling switch with neon -> flex connection plate -> towel rail.
Cables in trunking, concealed in the wall, surface clipped, makes no difference.
Could be lighting circuit or socket circuit.
This is a suitable DP ceiling switch: http://www.qvsdirect.com/mk-16a-d-p-1-way-pull-cord-ceiling-switch-without-mount-block
which fixes to a block like this one containing a neon: http://www.qvsdirect.com/mk-mounting-block-with-neon-6-to-16a
The more usual and much easier method is to get one of these:
fitted in the wall next to the towel rail, and connect to a power supply, typically via a nearby socket in the adjacent room.
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