Switch wires too small

[bernardgreen]

But not very different to putting a stranded wire into a terminal with a screw pushing against the wire.

Solder is much softer than copper.

 

[SUNRAY]

Solder is much softer than copper.

Yes agreed, however the solder tends to hold the strands together around the screw.
There are advantages and disadvantages with or without solder but a crimped terminal of some description beats both methods most of the time.

 

[mattylad]

All the electricians that I have seen have very poor soldering skills, when they come into the workshop they just ask me to do it for them instead now. (40+ years since I got my first iron).

Winston you may be able to solder but many cannot, heck the yanks cannot even pronounce it correctly

 

[SUNRAY]

you may be able to solder but many cannot,

Realistically even a good number of people who use a soldering iron can't solder, just blobbing the solder on from a hot iron may look OK but sure as eggs is eggs it's a dry joint..

 

[danechip]

In panel wiring, we twisted and crimped. No soldering in sight. Tinning wires in looms, sometimes. Usually in a pot, not an iron.

Soldering or soddering? We get older, not 'odder' Silly yanks, annoys me that does..

 

[robinbanks]

Wago 221 are fantastic, I find them much easier than the Wago push in series

Levers are nicer to use too, though I generally prefer Ideal to Wago

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

Yes agreed, however the solder tends to hold the strands together around the screw.
There are advantages and disadvantages with or without solder but a crimped terminal of some description beats both methods most of the time.

Solder tinned does make it easier to insert wires into a terminal, but under the pressure of the screw of the terminal, the screw can seem tight - then as the solder gradually migrates/moves/lets go of the copper, the terminal screw becomes loose. Yes, I have come across the problem a number of times.

The correct way is not to solder, but to crimp a boot lace furel on stranded wires.

 

[SUNRAY]

Solder tinned does make it easier to insert wires into a terminal, but under the pressure of the screw of the terminal, the screw can seem tight - then as the solder gradually migrates/moves/lets go of the copper, the terminal screw becomes loose. Yes, I have come across the problem a number of times.

The correct way is not to solder, but to crimp a boot lace furel on stranded wires.

I've found the same problem with just twisted wire being tight and becoming lose and believe the difference between with and without tinning EDIT: is virtually negligable. One companies panels I regularly came across had a bit of a reputation for failures, they moved from just twisted to tinned and to be honest I don't think it made any difference. If anything the tinned failures tended to cause less damage, my theory (and it is just that) is the non tinned terminations would overheat for a long time before failing whereas the tinned versions would overheat, the solder would melt and the resistance would rise rapidly and the termination would fail much quicker with less damage to the component.

In panel wiring, we twisted and crimped. No soldering in sight. Tinning wires in looms, sometimes. Usually in a pot, not an iron.

Soldering or soddering? We get older, not 'odder' Silly yanks, annoys me that does..

Why twist? I personally find it easier to apply a ferrule if not twisted especially doubles.
The automatic stripper/crimper don't twist either.

 

[mattylad]

Because if you do not twist, a loose strand * can often stick out the back of the ferrules insulated portion giving rise to a potential to touch a live wire. So to ensure it does not happen we twist like we did last summer as a matter of course.

*I have found that this can happen especially with automatic strippers.

As for doubles I always twist them, because otherwise there is a chance that one does not go fully into the ferrule so they are first stripped longer than a single ferrule needs them and second twisted to keep the ends of the insulation in the place.

 

[SUNRAY]

Because if you do not twist, a loose strand * can often stick out the back of the ferrules insulated portion giving rise to a potential to touch a live wire. So to ensure it does not happen we twist like we did last summer as a matter of course.

*I have found that this can happen especially with automatic strippers.

I've found the opposite, if the wire is twisted (and therefore not straight) the bent strands have less mechanical resistance and liable to catch and push up round the rest.

As for doubles I always twist them, because otherwise there is a chance that one does not go fully into the ferrule so they are first stripped longer than a single ferrule needs them and second twisted to keep the ends of the insulation in the place.

Sounds like hard work to me.

Doing doubles (or more) the same is true but worse, once inserted a little wiggle side to side allows both wires to enter fully.

I strip them to the correct length and make sure I can see both ends before crimping otherwise one can't tell what's happening within the insulation

Added to those, the act of twisting the strands makes the wire thicker which can make it tighter in the ferrule making the 'risks' greater.

Just my observations, obviously yours are different, which I don't have a problem with.

 

[Jackrae]

No I walked away and informed my employer I wasn't prepared to work under the inspections on that site and let him sort it out.

That reminds me of the old adage : "Those who can - DO; those who can't - TEACH; those who can neither DO nor TEACH - INSPECT"

 

[sparkwright]

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