T&G floorboards, tips and tricks for laying

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All,

This weekends job is replacing the original T&G floorboards in my 1890's flat with new ones.

Any tips and tricks for making this a painless as possible?

Any suggestions of specialist tools required for the job?

Cheers in advance
e
 
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ewans - first question, why replace? Are they too far gone, can't they be tidied-up?

To remove (are you sure they're T&G and not plain edge). First question is any hammering going to damage plaster ceilings below? A cheap hardpoint saw from a DIY shed, a couple of levers (thin crowbars), a bolster chisel, club hammer - these are what you'll need to take it up. Hire a nail puller to get all the orphan nails out that will remain in the joists (there could be loads of these); you could use a claw hammer but our experience shows a puller is more efficient. Brush the dust off the joists. Safety, take the time to remove the nails in the old boards as you are bound to stand on one (been there and done it - penicillin jab in the arse down at casualty also). If space is tight lift half the floor and replace.

To replace. Remember the hammering question above! Choice - traditional nailing through tops of boards or secret nailing through tongues. Trad nailing, hammer & nail set (punch). Secret nailing - hire air nailer, compressor (don't forget the special nails to go with the nailer). Whilst you're down at the hire shop pick-up a flooring clamp, used if you need to nudge a board or two, although you can get away with jamming an old chisel into the joist edge and use it as a lever against the board.
 
>first question, why replace?

Yeh i think so plumbing and eleectric access over the years have distroyed then it lots of areas. I want a high quailty finish so i'm just going to replace them. I managed to source some good quality boards 28mm think and 137 cover for the job. These are the same thickness as the boards comming up but a little wider.

Was planning on lifting/replacing 3 or 4 lines of board at a time.

Nail puller is a good idea, i'll look into that.

As for putting the new boards down i was considering screwing them down for maximun long term stability/lack of movement. The floors getting painted and varnished so filling and sanding counter sunk screws is not a problem for me.

Mind you, am i just making more work for myself, airpowerd nailgun sounds like an easy option.
 
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ewans said:
As for putting the new boards down i was considering screwing them down for maximun long term stability/lack of movement.

DON'T ! ! ! !
screwing them down will prevent any 'natural' movement and you'll risk the boards will split in the end!

Nailing is the best solutions when installing directly onto joists
 
Hiring a couple of Floorboard Clamps will stop you swearing :p make a small T&G pattern so the jaw don't damaged the last floorboard you're clamping

floorboardclamp%20copy.jpg
 
agree with masona, a pair of these is essential.

0880-large.jpg


oh, and some losthead nails too. ;)
 
OK, Thanks WoodYouLike

Does anyone make long solid floor PTG type flooring suitable for living areas ... like you see in victorian type of houses?

Or am I better off re-laying with T+G chipboard and putting engineered flooring down?
 
Why not load-bearing wood-engineered boards? Much more stable than solid boards and no need to install chipboard first.

Many ranges now available that look Aged (either old colours or distressed)
 
WoodYouLike
Most of the engineered floors I have looked at dont advise that they can be nailed onto floor joists ... and they tend to come in random lengths which I guess will create more wasted than floating onto say chipboard?

ie.
http://www.ukflooringdirect.co.uk/Engineered/Florence_European_Engineered_Fumed_Oak_150mm_Oiled.html
Could I use that?

Or would I be better off re-doing the chipboard and using a floating wooden floor? But more work?

My reason to go directly onto the joists was becuase I am having a new heating system so their will be a lot disruption to the existing chipboard.

Why do older properties with solid wooden floor boards onto the joists not show signs of movement with temp and moisture changes?
Its just their is something about using solid wood ... but maybe I am old fashioned and adverse to the engineered products!!!
 
Our load-bearing wood-engineered boards are always long lengths but of course that comes at a price.

You could indeed go for another structure - but I would replace the chipboard with 18mm plywood - and then install 15mm flooring down (either nailed or floating)
 

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