Tanking Aqua panel

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As the title says, does aqua panel need tanking or a BAL waterproofing kit before installing the shower tray and tiling?

I'm sure this has probably been asked many times before but every time I try and google the answer I seem to get conflicting information so thought I'd try and get a definitive answer.
 
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depends - there are two products often described as aqua panel. one is a moisture resistant plasterboard, one is a cement based board. The former does need tanking, the latter doesn't.
 
The one i've used is the wickes aquapanel which is cement board so hopefully should be ok.

Would it be possible or advisable to tank it anyway as a belt & braces approach?
 
Have you checked the price of tanking products?
 
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No - theres no point. Taping the joints is required\a good idea if its a real wet area such as a shower. what adhesive are you using on it?
 
I've not checked the cost of tanking products if I'm honest but would rather spend the extra money if it's going to be worthwhile and give me peace of mind.

I'm planning to use BAL single part flexible for the walls and floors. The wall area obviously includes the shower area.
What tape would you suggest for the joints and corners?
 
I recently did a shower. I used Aquapanel cement board and used the Schulter Kerdi waterproofing membrane.

It only cost about £60 for a small cubicle and a bit more for the extra adhesive but it gives me piece of mind that it will never leak or cause issues.
 
seems a bit of a mixed opinion here so heading towards spending the extra time/money in tanking so next stop may be finding the right product to do this.

Having never done this task before, is this an easy job to do before tiling?
 
hi there - if you have used a cement based backer board such as described you have no need to tank the area. are you fitting a shower tray ?
 
It's definetly cement board I've used so think that I should be ok to tile onto that rather than tanking.
I will be putting a shower tray in which will be layed on a bed of mortar directly on the floor then plan to backfill gap between the wall and tray with silicone before tiling on top of the edge of the tray and then sealing once again.

As you can probably tell I'm paranoid about making sure it's not going to leak.
 
yep your onto the right thing. the shower try - bed it as you've described, ive seen some put silicone onto the back edges to actually bond the shower tray to the wall too, then backfill as you describe. when tiling leave a 2-3mm gap at the bottom and silicone this too. use good quality (dow corning or similar) silicone so it doesnt go black.

You should tape the joints of the cement board - especially the corners. have a google for 'tape for cement board seams'. i would expect wickes to stock it.

Check the instructions on the adhesive you have to see if it needs priming, if so use an acrylic primer not PVA
 
follow tpt info mate

when fitting the aquapanel to the studs try and brick bond them on,adding extra dwangs if you can.
 
Thanks for the tips and pointers.

I take it by "brick bond" you mean staggering the joints like in a brick wall pattern?
Unfortunatley I've already fixed the cement boards and had to put them in a straight line to be able to line up with the existing plasterboard that will be remaining in the dry area of the room.
I only decided to renew the plasterboard with cement board as a precaution before installing the new shower.
 
tic tic does mean than, and its good advice - but it will be ok without if you have already gone ahead.
 
Tank bog standard plasterboard or use aquapanel, one or the other. Personally I would prefer tanking plasterboard... of course if money is no object then knock yourself out! :D
 

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