tap tails so corroded I can't unscrew

Discussion in 'Plumbing and Central Heating' started by HawkEye244, 22 May 2021.

  1. HawkEye244

    HawkEye244

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    Hi everyone,
    I'm hoping I can get some help for this tap.
    I would like to unscrew both tails as they are badly corroded and replace them but the damage is so bad they don't budge.
    I can't get a spanner down there either, so what can I do?
    I would like to keep the tap as it's a bath store one and very expensive and also operates the basin waste.
    Thanks for any help.


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  3. Elkato531

    Elkato531

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    Buy a new tap, it's knackered. It may have been expensive but that's not always a good indication of quality, especially from Bathstore.
     
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  4. HERTS P&D

    HERTS P&D

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    Yep, a very expensive tap shouldn't look like that. Replace it!

    Andy
     
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  5. mattylad

    mattylad

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    OR, before then - spray lots of wd40 into the area where the tail meets the tap and leave it an hour, top up when needed.

    Put a pair of nuts on the threaded bar, tighten them together and unthread the bar with a spanner.
    Use pipe grips on what you can get to wiggling them both directions to loosen.

    If you do manage it you will obviously need 2 new tails and investigate why they are so corroded - sort that out too.
     
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  6. HawkEye244

    HawkEye244

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    Thanks for your views.
    Any idea about whether the lever waste contributed to the rust on the tails ?
    I will go for a clicker waste option on the new tap but only if it makes a difference in the future ?
    I don't think there was a slow leak on this tap so the small hole in the back of the tap seems to be the only culprit here ?
    I just don't understand why this happened.
    One of the tails was so corroded it actually exploded and extensive water damage everywhere ...
     
  7. Nige F

    Nige F

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    Funny enough my neighbour's tap tail to WC did the same yesterday. I keep a stopcock key in our porch;) Didn't notice water had sprayed right up to ceiling until it dripped on my head:rolleyes:
     
  8. HawkEye244

    HawkEye244

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    Hi again guys,
    Feel like I should take some advice as I've gone out and bought a new tap.
    However, the tails are not the right length and I'm curious to know if there is any solution that means I can use the existing tails as if I don't I'm worried it may void the 10 year guarantee?
    No matter which configuration I use the tails are kinking.
    Secondly, angled isolation valves are not common.
    screwfix don't sell them and toolstation don't have any in stock, pretty much nationwide.
    Would appreciate some thoughts as I'm a bit stuck now.
    p.s. the brass fitting is a compression adapter which helps marry the tail to the pipe to give a snugger fit:
    https://www.screwfix.com/p/tesla-br...g-flexible-tap-connectors-15mm-x-2-pack/2665r

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    On the bright side fitting the waste was a breeze.
    Really like using plumbers mate instead of silicone as it's so much easier a job. I hate that silicone.
     
  9. HERTS P&D

    HERTS P&D

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    You can normally 'loop' the flex, the hot will need a 90 degree joint a bit of pipe.

    Andy
     
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  11. HawkEye244

    HawkEye244

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    Really have tried looping and a lot of tinkering later, it's a miserable experience.
    Even if I get them on with the least amount of kinking once I tighten the nut they instantly start kinking.
    I can stick a pipe of plastic pipe in the hot but it won't look very tidy - in fact I'd go one further and say it would look quite ****.
     
  12. Donald_diy

    Donald_diy

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    can you spend some more cash (seems your a landlord) purchase a short section of 15mm chrome pipe with some associated fittings and have all the connections tidied under the bowl out of user eye sight

    why do you find it difficult to appoint a qualified (yes they exist)a plumber, why are you so tight.
     
  13. HawkEye244

    HawkEye244

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    Further photos guys:

    IMG_20210524_160353456.jpg

    Thanks to your advice about the looping Andy. What do you think? Is it passable?

    Here's my solution to the angle:

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    Thoughts?

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    Thread here so it won't work with a normal isolation valve.
    Any suggestions?
    Many thanks
     
  14. HERTS P&D

    HERTS P&D

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    The cold pipe on the left could do with an extra piece of pipe added to make more of a loop.

    The hot outlet of the right could do with a street elbow with a nut and olive and a piece of pipe going up.

    Andy
     
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  15. HawkEye244

    HawkEye244

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    Thanks for the tips Andy.
    I'm a little confused with the street valve because the pipe coming through the wall is threaded as per the photo but the ends on the isolation valve are both male.

    I have a service valve which has a female end but the arrow is going in the wrong direction?
    Any further help?

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  16. HERTS P&D

    HERTS P&D

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  17. HawkEye244

    HawkEye244

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