Terminating an armoured cable

Brass glands are not the only method, it is permissible to treat the steel wires like any other wires, twist a few into bunches, sleeve and terminate.
Why can’t I treat the SWA cable like a regular T&E in this situation? Remove outer sheath, connect L and N to the light and earth to a Wago or something similar to maintain continuity across the circuit? Given that the SWA is buried in the cement, there is no risk of it dropping through.
 
Sponsored Links
If those back boxes are plastic (which is non conducting) then glanding them to it does nothing, you need to be ensuring that the earth is continuous through the entire circuit.

While I'm sure someone will tell you about a product to do it, you may now have to put each end into a brass gland and use banjo's and a length of earth wire to join them both together.
You need to sandwich the banjo between two locknuts. It's no use just tightening it down to a plastic enclosure.
 
So why don't you give the information about other methods?

Brass glands are not the only method, it is permissible to treat the steel wires like any other wires, twist a few into bunches, sleeve and terminate.
As an example:
View attachment 308466



Another purpose designed product for the job which will likely be easier within your restricted space:
View attachment 308465
No it isn't. May give you problems with dissimilar metals too.
 
Sponsored Links
Why can’t I treat the SWA cable like a regular T&E in this situation? Remove outer sheath, connect L and N to the light and earth to a Wago or something similar to maintain continuity across the circuit? Given that the SWA is buried in the cement, there is no risk of it dropping through.
Can someone help me with the above please?
I've not worked with SWA previously and am probably missing something...

Thanks again.
 
So why don't you give the information about other methods?

Brass glands are not the only method, it is permissible to treat the steel wires like any other wires, twist a few into bunches, sleeve and terminate.
As an example:
View attachment 308466



Another purpose designed product for the job which will likely be easier within your restricted space:
View attachment 308465
looking at the terminal with the bracket, if the bracket just had a hole in it and you then glanded the cable to the bracket it would be neater
 
looking at the terminal with the bracket, if the bracket just had a hole in it and you then glanded the cable to the bracket it would be neater
I don't quite follow your comment. These products are used instead of brass glands, where a brass gland is not a suitable or too big/bulky product.
 
A 20mm gland would probably fit to that bracket and to me at least would be a better termination than bent over wires and a jubilee clip
 
A 20mm gland would probably fit to that bracket and to me at least would be a better termination than bent over wires and a jubilee clip
Any old bit of bent metal will do that just as well.

The whole point of these is to use in situations where a brass gland is less appropriate for whatever reason. These are commercially produced and many thousands of such systems have been in use for years, As said before a brass gland is not the only way.

To fit inside the OPs enclosure the device without the bracket may fit, where a brass gland is less likely to, and yes I have been in that situation and all too often.
 
I am still trying to understand why the SWA cable behind the light can't be unsheathed and handled like you would with a conventional T&E cable i.e. pop the live and neutral into the light and have continuity across the earth by using a suitable connector.

Why is some form of glanding necessary behind the light when the cable is buried in concrete and has no where to go? I do understand why it is required on the end where it enters the house.

Can you help me understand this please. Thanks again.
 
When the steel strands used to armour the cable are cut there will be hard pointed ends that could puncture the insulation overtime.

A metal gland protects the conductors from damage from the cut strands
 
When the steel strands used to armour the cable are cut there will be hard pointed ends that could puncture the insulation overtime.

A metal gland protects the conductors from damage from the cut strands
got it!
 
When the steel strands used to armour the cable are cut there will be hard pointed ends that could puncture the insulation overtime.

A metal gland protects the conductors from damage from the cut strands
Whilst I could use some of the specific products mentioned in this discussion, presumably I could also use a regular gland and just have it hanging mid-air, behind my light? i.e. it does not need to be clamped onto the hole in the back box.
1690888607738.png


I think I still have room behind the light and also, my gland doesn't need to be too chunky as I only have a 1.5mm SWA cable.

My initial confusion was based on the above "having" to be clamped around the hole in my plastic back box and I couldn't see how I would get access underneath the box as it's now plastered in. If the primary purpose of this - in my situation - is to protect the cables from being punctured, I would think my approach of having these glands mid-air (behind the light) would suffice.

Can you please provide your thoughts on this. Really appreciate the support.
 
Main problem with your floating gland is you then have cores with only primary insulation exposed. You could i suppose sleeve them with some secondary (mechanical protection) insulation but it would still be rather shoddy.
Couple of alternatives;
Fix another backbox to the buried backbox, terminate in that, fix lamp.
Chop the plaster out so you can get a gland into the buried backbox
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top