Terminating an armoured cable

Main problem with your floating gland is you then have cores with only primary insulation exposed. You could i suppose sleeve them with some secondary (mechanical protection) insulation but it would still be rather shoddy.
Couple of alternatives;
Fix another backbox to the buried backbox, terminate in that, fix lamp.
Chop the plaster out so you can get a gland into the buried backbox
But even if I managed to clamp onto the existing box (or fit a new box within this) for glanding purposes, there will be some bit of the core running from here to the light. The light is not as deep as the plastic box. If these cores are sleeved - as I intended - isn't that sufficient?
 
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Main problem with your floating gland is you then have cores with only primary insulation exposed. You could i suppose sleeve them with some secondary (mechanical protection) insulation but it would still be rather shoddy.
Couple of alternatives;
Fix another backbox to the buried backbox, terminate in that, fix lamp.
Chop the plaster out so you can get a gland into the buried backbox
WHAT? Are you suggesting all of our wiring now needs to be double insulated (sorry old habits die hard) insulated and sheathed
 
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WHAT? Are you suggesting all of our wiring now needs to be double insulated (sorry old habits die hard) insulated and sheathed
If its not in an enclosure, yes that's my understanding. Or have i misinterpreted something somewhere?
 
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But even if I managed to clamp onto the existing box (or fit a new box within this) for glanding purposes, there will be some bit of the core running from here to the light. The light is not as deep as the plastic box. If these cores are sleeved - as I intended - isn't that sufficient?
If the single insulated cores are enclosed (so they can't be accessed without a tool) you are fine. I don't really understand the 'light is not as deep as the plastic box' bit...
 
If its not in an enclosure, yes that's my understanding. Or have i misinterpreted something somewhere?
If I understand this correctly; the enclosure (backbox?) for the lights are there, fitted in the wall with cables entering them, just the way we'd expect T&E and a 13A socket to be installed. If I have that wrong then my advice may not be appropriate.

Jupiter has insisted on blundering on in his mistaken belief he is an electrician and now he is asking for a way to fix his cock up and as always doesn't believe our advice.
 
If I understand this correctly; the enclosure (backbox?) for the lights are there, fitted in the wall with cables entering them, just the way we'd expect T&E and a 13A socket to be installed. If I have that wrong then my advice may not be appropriate.
Correct

as always doesn't believe our advice.
Is this just a convenient thing to say about someone who isn’t a professional electrician? You don’t really believe that, surely.
I’ve learnt so much from the advice I have received from these forums.

Just because I may be querying something or exploring a suggestion from someone else, that doesn’t mean I don’t believe your advice.
 
If the single insulated cores are enclosed (so they can't be accessed without a tool) you are fine. I don't really understand the 'light is not as deep as the plastic box' bit...
There is a plastic back box set in the pillar. This is deeper than the light that will slot into this. I am hoping to fit the floating glands in this gap behind the light. The light will be screwed into place and therefore, you cannot access the single insulated cores without removing the light.

Let me know if I am missing something.
 
Why can’t I treat the SWA cable like a regular T&E in this situation? Remove outer sheath, connect L and N to the light and earth to a Wago or something similar to maintain continuity across the circuit? Given that the SWA is buried in the cement, there is no risk of it dropping through.
I would say that it depends upon whether SWA (or, at least, a cable with an "earthed outer sheath") is required because of the installation route. If that is required, then some method of earthing the armour (most commonly an 'SWA gland', but other methods are available) obviously must be utilised - but if it is not required then (per a recent discussion here, which you may have seen) at least some people believe that earthing of the sheath, particularly in the sort of situation you describe, is not essential or 'compulsory..

Kind Regards, John
 
There is a plastic back box set in the pillar. This is deeper than the light that will slot into this. I am hoping to fit the floating glands in this gap behind the light. The light will be screwed into place and therefore, you cannot access the single insulated cores without removing the light.

Let me know if I am missing something.
That has been my interpretation from the start.
As mentioned elsewhere; the brass gland is specifically designed to fix the armour to the enclosure, to provide mechanical strength/restraint and an electrical connection. If the mechanical restraint is provided elsewhere (set in concrete is pretty stabile :giggle:) one only has to contend with the electrical side. Many on this forum seem to be fixated on insisting a brass gland is the only possible correct method. From bitter experience I am in a position to offer that you will struggle to get a brass gland inside that box and I for one would not bother trying. The other types I've shown are a dam site easier to fit and despite the hose clamp looking bigger (and being physically fatter) will fit in smaller spaces, you may also find an earth bar easier too without any form of clamp or gland.

However I seem to be a lone voice in the forest and my experiences with these devices seem to hardly be shared by others.
 
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Correct


Is this just a convenient thing to say about someone who isn’t a professional electrician? You don’t really believe that, surely.
I’ve learnt so much from the advice I have received from these forums.
It's why I stopped replying to your posts.
 
However I seem to be a lone voice in the forest and my experiences with these devices seem to not be shared by others.
For what it's worth, I, for one, have never 'dismissed' your comments and practices as regards termination of SWA and, on the contrary, sometimes mention (or, at least, 'allude to') them - as I recently did above.

Kind Regards, John
 
For what it's worth, I, for one, have never 'dismissed' your comments and practices as regards termination of SWA and, on the contrary, sometimes mention (or, at least, 'allude to') them - as I recently did above.

Kind Regards, John
Yes thank you highlighting my poorly written comment, I had intended the word 'seem' to soften it.
 
UPDATE: I have done some more investigation around this and have an obstacle that I am hooping you can advise me on. This plastic box in the wall is around 7.5 cm deep:
1693775583046.png


The light itself is 7cm deep. The extra half cm in the box is due to the plaster and a bit of inset on the box.

1693775660000.png

1693775688191.png


I had hoped that there is enough spare space in the plastic box (and behind the light) for me to have floating glands or some other contraption. However, it turns out that I do not have this space. Also note that the light screws into the holes in the back of the plastic box.

I would like to minimize the damage I cause to the wall and any making good that may then be required.

I would welcome your thoughts on this. Thanks for your support.
 
If your into bodging and there is space behind the box, you could make a cutout in the back of the box and seal in another box behind it that you can terminate into.
 

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