Yes, it will. But only to test it I'd say. Nothing wrong with a low curve if it's heating the house adequately (24 degrees is plenty I'd say!). You normally only up the curve if the house is too cold, in winter. No point trying to set it accurately in summer if you ask me.
Testing underfloor heating
- Thread starter Milleniumaire
- Start date
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You'd be really unlucky if there was a problem IMO.
Jeff
Jeff
The heating curve was set to 1.7, so I've now increased it to the maximum value of 4.0 so hopefully the boiler will heat the central heating water as much as it can, however, looking at the heating curve diagram in my thermostat user guide, it seems to suggest that at 20 degrees and above external temperature, the heating curve doesn't have much impact:
View media item 80508
View media item 80508
There's a minimum flow temperature which that graph doesn't take into account of about 35 degrees I think? But the point is... Why do you need the heating on in summer? It's been so warm recently. Please don't leave it on 4.0 or you're not getting much benefit from the weather compensation! 
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The reason I'm trying to crank up the heating is to test the new underfloor heating, now that the screed has fully dried, I need to slowly bring the UFH upto maximum temperature to a) ensure it is doing its job of heating the floor screed, b) test for cold spots and c) prepare for tiling.
Having set the heating curve to its maximum value of 4, it soon became obvious this was too high as the radiators were too hot to touch!!!! At least I know I now need to slowly increase the heating curve as well as the thermostat temperature to heat up the floor.
So much for the "increase it by 5 degrees each day" instruction I was given. It's almost impossible to gauge how much it is increasing due to the number of variables
Having set the heating curve to its maximum value of 4, it soon became obvious this was too high as the radiators were too hot to touch!!!! At least I know I now need to slowly increase the heating curve as well as the thermostat temperature to heat up the floor.
So much for the "increase it by 5 degrees each day" instruction I was given. It's almost impossible to gauge how much it is increasing due to the number of variables
Well, after a sweltering weekend (in my house at least with the thermostat set to 27 degrees), I have failed to get the slightest bit of heat through the underfloor heating!
I've spoken to the builder who built our extension and he will get the plumber who installed the manifold back as he suspects there may be an air lock (I certainly hope so, although what are the chances of an air lock in all three supply pipes?).
The manifold has been very hot to the touch and the manifold pump was at its maximum speed setting. I noticed that there are two gauges and I assume these show the supply and return temperatures, which were 55 and 45 degrees respectively. However, although the manifold was hot to the touch, the pipes were "warm" (not hot) and the return pipes were much cooler than the supply pipes. I assume, for them to be able to heat up the screed they would have to be very hot to the touch, just like a radiator.
Damn UFH
I've spoken to the builder who built our extension and he will get the plumber who installed the manifold back as he suspects there may be an air lock (I certainly hope so, although what are the chances of an air lock in all three supply pipes?).
The manifold has been very hot to the touch and the manifold pump was at its maximum speed setting. I noticed that there are two gauges and I assume these show the supply and return temperatures, which were 55 and 45 degrees respectively. However, although the manifold was hot to the touch, the pipes were "warm" (not hot) and the return pipes were much cooler than the supply pipes. I assume, for them to be able to heat up the screed they would have to be very hot to the touch, just like a radiator.
Damn UFH
What were the flow gauges on the manifold registering?
M
MJGas
Take a picture with it running.
Are there any flow meters on the manifold? What do they read?
Edit: Flock you dan R
Are there any flow meters on the manifold? What do they read?
Edit: Flock you dan R
M
MJGas
They are reading 0
M
MJGas
Try unscrewing the white caps for a start.
How are you balancing the flows between the rads and the UFH?
Is there just the boiler pump or do you have a manifold (eg a low loss header) and separate pump for the rads in addition to that for the UFH manifolds?
Is there just the boiler pump or do you have a manifold (eg a low loss header) and separate pump for the rads in addition to that for the UFH manifolds?
Bet a pound to a penny the white caps are closed, or the flow gauges are.. or both.
Flirking builders
Another reason never to use a builders in house plumber.
Flirking builders
Another reason never to use a builders in house plumber.
Take a picture with it running.
Are there any flow meters on the manifold? What do they read?
Edit: Flock you dan R
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