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The best Manual Mitre saw?

Discussion in 'Tools and Materials' started by wau5, 7 Aug 2017.

  1. wau5

    wau5

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    I want to purchase a good quality manual mitre saw that is actually a good quality tool and can produce excellent results- it will be used for trim work mostly but also for some regular mitre saw usage when I will be working away from power outlet.
    I currently got a nobex champion 180 which supposedly is the top-of-the-range-stuff ,and quite expensive as well. I bought it because it got good reviews and people were suggesting it- but it's one of the worst quality tools I have ever bought and I regret that purchase everytime I use that tool. ( stuff that has already broken on it- 2x handles/one guide/both clamps/support piece )+ It doesn't cuts anywhere near square so it's only good for very rough cutting which defeats its purpose. Very good ideas - but very bad execution on that tool!

    I don't mind buying something vintage &chunky and restoring if needed but I'm after a real quality tool as I really like this kind of tool and I'm using it quite frequently,the nobex will go straight to dump after I get something better - so I don't want another saw from that manufacturer.
     
  2. When you say trim do you mean little delicate bits of work or large moulding? I recently saw a guy using a shooting board plane combination and the finish was excellent but the Veritas will set you back the better part of £300.
     
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  4. Roger928

    Roger928

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    Hand sawing and the shooting board would be a better option.
     
  5. JobAndKnock

    JobAndKnock

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    About the only "big and chunky" hand mitre saws you'll ever find are the Ulmias (now defunct - the makers went bust about 10 year ago), which have a cast iron base, HOWEVER, they only have detents at 0, 22.5 and 45° and they won't handle compound cuts. I've had both an older Nobex and an Ulmia 352 and accuracy in the past on both was so-so on bigger stuff (because the blades tend to bind and squirm in deeper cuts) but very good for small section beadings, etc - their intended use. On all but smaller beadings it was generally necessary to fine tune the cut afterwards with a mitre plane and mitre clamp (or on site with a razor sharp block plane) which is probably when the Morso-type mitre trimmers became available they so quickly came to dominate the market. Either way this type of tool is not suitable for making large cuts (e.g. 3 x 2 softwood) for which a conventional hand saw and square with a hand plane to clean-up is the way to go
     
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