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The dreaded newbie with hive issues

Discussion in 'Plumbing and Central Heating' started by trexamanic, 12 Oct 2019.

  1. trexamanic

    trexamanic

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    Before i begin, "Hello" i am a newbie and for those that want to jump down my throat, please do not. I am excused on medical grounds from any abuse!!!:cry:
    The irony is that before a spinal operation caused post op complications, i used to be a heating engineer. Alas now, i can barely remember my name at times so i have lost most if not all of my knowledge.
    That out of the way, my problem is as follows. Just moved to new property.
    I had hive in previous property and loved it.
    i have bought hive again. I went to install this evening but its not right.
    Firstly i swapped the controlller for the hive and that went fine as there is only a live,nuetral ch on and hw on. so i was able to use the same backplate from the drayton/bg controller.
    i then updated the wifif controller etc etc. the tests were all ok with the exception of the existing
    Drayton Digistat +3 Battery version.
    It only has the 2 wires so i bridged them out and then i got the hive roomstat into play however there was a constant ch demand to the boiler no matter what i did to the r/stat presumably because i thought i could just bridge the two wires( showing the wires before choc blocking them.
    this is where im now confused. to make it worse the danfoss wiring centre is a dogs dinner of wires and i am no longer comfortable in that part.
    the next thing is the system is a worcester bosch sealed unvented system
    Please help if i am missing something obvious.
    Thank you in advance
    IMG_4239.JPG
     
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  3. ianmcd

    ianmcd

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    At the other end where the Brown and black wires in your pic of the stat need to be interuppted by your hive
     
  4. ericmark

    ericmark

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    I read your report and think that should work.

    Since the com in Hive and Drayton is not volt free but linked to line the programmer has to come first I can't see any way of wiring it different. Standard idea is programmer feeds thermostats, and thermostats feed zone valves and zone valves feed boiler except for Y plan where the N/C contact of tank thermostat is used.

    So may be it's the programming of Hive? Or maybe either Hive or old Drayton are not following normal Neutral Line HW off CH off HW on CH on order? Only way Hive could be wrong is if a single channel not duel channel?

    Just a thought, having had problems with this house, was the programmer actually in use? I found a programmer labelled as CH and DHW once or twice a day, however the unit simply switched the boiler on / off in either mode and had been in essence by-passed. In my case to get central heating you had to plug in the pump. OK sure yours is not that bad, but I would refit as it was and actually see if it was actually doing what it should do to start with.

    I have seen where a combi boiler has been fitted and the old programmer left in place.
     
  5. trexamanic

    trexamanic

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    Thank you for your replies.
    I could not find the other ends of the wire. It may be worth noting that the Drayton controller is programmable for on of and yet the digistat is also programmable?
    I have only so far used the stat to demand heat in manual mode however the controller is operating the hot water ok.
    I returned it all back to as was as I’m not understanding why bridging the battery powere digistat put the boiler on constantly and despite all the hive talking to each other I couldn’t switch of the ch demand. I started to wonder if it was due to the unvented side of things. I understand that bridging the stat would bring it on but I thought the hive stat would work.
    I noticed in the excellent YouTube video, the guy said you could just turn the original stat up and hive would work albeit it was the cheats way. I am very confused.
    Just to add the Drayton controller only had live neutral and ch on and hw on.
     
  6. ericmark

    ericmark

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    If you turn off the CH at the programmer does it actually go off?

    What I wonder is if the programmer is already by-passed? If the thermostat is programmable it would make sense to by-pass the programmer, and if that's been done, it would answer the question about why it did not work as expected.
     
  7. trexamanic

    trexamanic

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    Well that’s a curveball.
    I wouldn’t be able to use the hive at all. I will check if the programmer puts the heating on. It does put the water on as the digistat only sets the heating. With only two wires I thought the digistat could simply be bypassed.
     
  8. ericmark

    ericmark

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    As you rightly said it should have worked, so I am trying to think out of the box.
     
  9. trexamanic

    trexamanic

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    Does anyone have any ideas?
    Am I missing something regards the thermostat being heat programmable?
    I’m stuck and could really do with some input.
    Thank you
     
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  11. stem

    stem

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    As you have described it and, ericmark says the wiring would sound to be correct.

    If you operate the CH manually from the receiver using the push button....

    Hive receiver.jpg


    ..... does the central heating switch on and off? If it does, the wiring is correct.

    If it doesn't, as a test, can you put the old room thermostat back in circuit exactly as it was and set it to its maximum temperature and to be 'on' what happens now?
     
  12. ianmcd

    ianmcd

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    I am possibly reading your post wrong as I read it as you have a Hive and a wireless room stat together, the hive replaces all programmers , room thermostats, the only other stat you have with a hive is a cylinder stat for the HW
     
  13. stem

    stem

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    The way I understood it, was that the OP had an existing programmer for CH and HW which he swapped for the Hive receiver and "bridged out" the existing Drayton room thermostat. Which sounds OK to me. (Assuming that the bridging was done correctly of course) But the OP reported that....
    But you could be right in that they might be trying to control it using the old stat instead of the Hive, in which case it won't do anything because it's bridged out, as it should be.

    So the question is when the OP refers to "r/stat" does he mean the Drayton stat or the Hive stat.
     
    Last edited: 18 Oct 2019
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  14. ianmcd

    ianmcd

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    @stem this is what makes me think they are trying to use the Hive and another control at the same time
     
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  15. stem

    stem

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    I did't really understand that statement to be honest, but again the same question which thermostat?
     
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  16. trexamanic

    trexamanic

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    Thank you people for your input.
    I was doing the installation as per the hive instructions.
    The old programmer was removed and the wiring was exactly as the hive required.At this point hive tell you to try the new receiver.
    I pressed the ch button and it operated the boiler. i pressed the hw and it operated the boiler. switching both off also worked. the next step was the thermostat. i had the whole internet side operating with the exception of the new hive roomstat. at this point i removed the drayton thermostat and could see only two wires and batteries. thinking i only needed to connect the two wires together into a choc block, i did wire the two wires together. i then switched the boiler on again and immediately it fired up with ch demand. i thought if i brought the new hive stat into action it would override the bridge i had done on the old stat wires. i turned the demand down on the hive stat but the boiler stayed on for the ch.
    Have i misunderstood bridging?
    should i have left the wires open(ie not linked together)
    I hope i have explained things clearer and that someone may see where i went wrong.
    Thank you in advance
     
    Last edited: 18 Oct 2019
  17. trexamanic

    trexamanic

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    Thank you people for your input.
    I was doing the installation as per the hive instructions.
    The old programmer was removed and the wiring was exactly as the hive required.At this point hive tell you to try the new receiver.
    I pressed the ch button and it operated the boiler. i pressed the hw and it operated the boiler. switching both off also worked. the next step was the thermostat. i had the whole internet side operating with the exception of the new hive roomstat. at this point i removed the drayton thermostat and could see only two wires and batteries. thinking i only needed to connect the two wires together into a choc block, i did wire the two wires together. i then switched the boiler on again and immediately it fired up with ch demand. i thought if i brought the hive stat into action it would overide the bridge i had done on the old stat wires. i turned the demand down on the hive stat but the boiler stayed on for the ch.
    Have i misunderstood bridging?
    should i have left the wires open(ie not linked together)
    I hope i have explained things clearer and that someone may see where i went wrong.
    Thank you in advance

    Read more: https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/the-dreaded-newbie-with-hive-issues.531173/#ixzz62jkUzRxP
     
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