things we want made....

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so I recon it's time for a list of things we have come up with ideas for, that would be of use to us as sparkies if made...


1. cooker switch with switched fused spur / 20A DP switch instead of a socket...
2. oval conduit bending springs..
3. 2mm galv capping to comply with regs re: penetration of screws etc... so we don't have to rcd protect the switch drops..


feel free to add more, I'll edit them onto the end of the list if we get anymore..
 
10-way central heting control wiring boxes that don't mean cramming multiple different types of wire into one connection point.

Its an idea I'm working on, not an original idea, lets see who's first to market!
 
10-way central heting control wiring boxes that don't mean cramming multiple different types of wire into one connection point.

I designed a PCB based one for a chap, screw clamp terminals, one wire per terminal and labeled. Even had diagnostic neons as well but he never got it on the market. He said his customers found it too expensive for the small benefit it gave them.
 
10-way central heting control wiring boxes that don't mean cramming multiple different types of wire into one connection point.

Its an idea I'm working on, not an original idea, lets see who's first to market!

think that's bad try doing a 4 zone house with 3 frost stats 1 cylinder stat(i did it once just for the experience and to prove someone wrong) 16 terminals loadsa wires :lol: :lol:

still have my wiring chart for that one!
 
1. cooker switch with switched fused spur / 20A DP switch instead of a socket...
newccuelectrichob.jpg

newccugashob.jpg



3. 2mm galv capping to comply with regs re: penetration of screws etc... so we don't have to rcd protect the switch drops..
How would you earth it in a way which complied with 526.3? Wouldn't BS8436 cable be a simpler solution?


10-way central heting control wiring boxes that don't mean cramming multiple different types of wire into one connection point.
Small enclosure, DIN rail, terminals to suit.


An Apprentice that actually turns up and wants too work!!!!! :lol: :wink:
Flying_Pig.jpg
 
How would you earth it in a way which complied with 526.3? Wouldn't BS8436 cable be a simpler solution?

First I am sure you are aware of the limitations on the use of BS 8436 cable concerning fault levels.

As to the capping - maybe he thinks he has discovered the mythical protection required by 522.6.6.(iv).

This would not need to be earthed as, unlike the methods in 522.6.6 (1) to (iii), it does not rely on disconnection for protection - it actually prevents penetration :D.

I love this one - 2 mm, I' ll penetrate that with a hard pin driven by a hammer. Next :D

Please note that, as written, there is no limit on the force I can use so I have an M1 tank parked outside just in case you decide on armoured plate.
 
I'd be happy if somebody produced galv back boxes with decent lugs to screw into. Something like those on a dry lining box.
 
First I am sure you are aware of the limitations on the use of BS 8436 cable concerning fault levels.
Yup - don't see it as a problematic limitation for lighting circuit switch drops.


Please note that, as written, there is no limit on the force I can use so I have an M1 tank parked outside just in case you decide on armoured plate.
Maybe you do, but you may not use it. 522.6.6 says "nails, screws and the like". Please explain how using an M1 tank to install any of those would comply with 134.1.1
 
Well it would do a good job of penetrating the wiring system. However, it might b bit expensive - insurance claims and all that :D.
 
So it wouldn't comply with 134.1.1.

I wonder how we should categorise an argument that something does not comply with the Wiring Regulations because it can be destroyed by the use of heavy military weapons?

a) Stupid
b) Daft
c) Ridiculous
d) Pointless
e) Idiotic
f) All of the above
 
Definitely (f) but you miss the point - what is sufficient protection, and what is unreasonable force.

A) a hammer
b) a Hilti gun
c) a drill bit
etc, etc.
 
I believe that it's aluding to the general DIYer who will hammer a hook into the wall to hang a picture, or try and put up a shelf and such..

99.99 percent of them wouldn't have a hilti gun so that is excessive force..

you'd feel and hear that there was a substantial something in the way if you tried to drill it..

as for 526.3 BAS, i'd do the same as for conduit, make a mechanical connection to the backbox...
cut 2 tabs on the bottom, bend back and pop rivet it to the backbox..


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