Tiling a Bathroom Ceiling?

[morg]

Hi there, my bathroom has started to get moldy ceilings. (even with a extractor fan fitted)

I like steam in bathroom in the winter months So I was thinking it would be ideal to tile the whole bathroom wallls and ceilings (and floor!).

Is it possible? Would it be pratical to tile ceilings? And what is the correct way of doing this?

thanks

 

[roughcaster]

Hi Morg,
I have in the past tiled 2 ceilings.Both of them have been in shower-rooms rather than a bathroom,so they were on a smaller scale.So yes,it is possible to do.There was a bit more work in setting out to get the tiles on the walls and the ceiling to all run in line,but it did look good when it was finished.I don't know whether it would be practical or not, that would be for you to decide.If you did decide to do it,you would have to make sure that the ceiling /plaster is strong enough to carry the tiles,no paper on the ceiling,old flaky paint/distemper removed,common sense things.After that, a good waterproof tile adhesive and grout,plenty of contact on the ceiling with each tile,and that's it.Better to spread the adhesive on the ceiling and tile,rather than just put it on the back of the tile.Twist each tile as you go to ensure good contact.

Roughcaster.

 

[gcol]

Just my opinion, but tiling a whole ceiling would look "too much". I recommend you increase the ventilation and paint the ceiling with silk emulsion more often.

 

[morg]

Thanks for helping.

It's not a very big bathroom, roughly 7x7ft. (or 3 baths)

I do like tiled ceilings and walls, I think it will look good, especially if I use a light color it may not look too much.

I've had another idea of using wooden cladding on the ceiling instead (dropped from about 6" from ceiling and about 6" gap on the outside edges, then I could add a few spotlights on each 4 sides for the lighting effect)... perhaps a good looking extractor fan in the middle as well.

I may even build a wooden box fixed to the ceilings beams, this should make it more sturdy, then I can choose to fit cladding or tiles to it.

See how it goes, now that I know it is pratical to tile ceilings, I'll have to make a choice.

thanks again
morg

 

[roughcaster]

Would agree with gcol morg.The ceiling of the shower rooms that I tiled,were on a much smaller scale.It looked good because the ceilings were a continuation of the sloping walls if you know what I mean, but in a bigger room it would be overpowering. Imagine going into a totally tiled bathroom with a good drink in,you wouldn't know whether you were standing up ,lying down,or standing on your head,but seriously,it would probably be cheaper to put in a bigger, more strategically placed extractor fan,and decorate with with a good bathroom paint that can be wiped down now and again. Imagine trying to keep the grout lines on the ceiling clean as well.Something as simple as leaving the window open a little bit will work wonders too.

Roughcaster.

 

[morg]

Yes it probably would look overdone come to think of it. I have changed my mind now, thanks guys. Too much work and keeping the grout clean would be strenuous.

I have decided to use Wooden Cladding for the ceiling and PVC Cladding for the walls.

And Ceramic Tiles for the flooring? Any tips for floor preparation? My biggest fear is the tiles cracking when they have dried and walked on. The floors are always squeaking, so it worries me about this movement, should I replace floor panels?

 

[roughcaster]

Thanks for the feedback,that's what this is all about.Tips for floor preparation? First of all,if the floor itself is as you say "squeaking",this can be remedied by screwing the boards down.Maybe they were nailed down when the house was constructed,but screws should sort that out.Be careful not to screw through any pipes or cables that might below the floor.When you have tightened the floor boards up,and you decide to go ahead and tile the floor,it is always advisable to cover the floor area to be tiled, with 9mm(minimum) WBP plywood sheets or even 12mm.This would be screwed down at 6" centres all over the boards,so a lot of screws,and stagger the joints,again think of pipes and cables.You are now ready for tiling.After setting out,fix the tiles with FLEXIBLE TILE ADHESIVE (powder mix) for TIMBER FLOORS,and a flexible grout (powder mix) for timber floors.It is a good tip to cut,number and dry lay a few tiles in advance,and then mix up the adhesive and fix the ones that are ready,and so on.The adhesive once mixed will set hard quickly,(45 mins or so)so don't mix too much at once,follow the manufacturers instructions on the bag.Clean everything after each mix, buckets,tools etc.Use plastic spacers or bits of card to keep even spaces.Sorry i've gone on a bit.Good luck.

Roughcaster.

 

[morg]

Thanks mate for writing that up, really helpful advice

Cheers

 

[bernardgreen]

Word of caution

Un-vented cavities between wood panelling and the wall or ceiling can become moisture traps and mould growth can occur out of sight.