Tiling a quadrant shower tray

[Tel77]

I'm just about to install a quadrant shower and wanted some advice on whether to tile before installing the tray or after?

My initial thoughts are to waterproof the tray area and then install the tray before tiling but it has occured to me that if I do this then the cubilcle may not follow the same radius when I install it on top of the tiles (I'm planning to fully tile the 2 walls).

 

[HERTS P&D]

Fit the tray then tile.

Andy

 

[Richard C]

As stated, fit the tray first then tile leaving a 2mm gap above the tray for a silicone seal; you should also silicone seal down the corner where the two walls meet rather than grout.

What are the walls made from? What are you using to waterproof?

 

[Tel77]

Thanks, i was 99% that was the way to go but wanted to double check as I was concerned that the curve on the shower tray wouldn't follow the curve on the cubicle and keep the distance where they join equal if this makes sense.

I'm still removing tiles so not sure on the wall material yet but as I'm likely to be replacing it and putting a new stud wall in to box the soil pipe, etc then I'll be using Aquapanel and probably tanking it as well.

I'm also planning to install the tray directly onto the floor which will first be overboarded with 12mm or 18mm WBP but can't decide whether to put it on a bed of cement/mortar or silicone it in.

 

[paul78]

depends on what floor you have already.....

My advice would be to keep asking questions on here to the likes of rich c as the chap will guide you through the process.

 

[Richard C]

What sort of tray is it, acrylic, fibreglass or stone resin?

 

[Tel77]

I'm fairly certain that the tray is an acrylic one but can't be 100% as it's yet to be delivered.
It's made by a company called JT in case anyone knows of these products.

 

[Richard C]

Stone resin will be very heavy & the back looks like concrete - basically what it is. These need continuous support or they will crack & practically all manufacturers recommend bedding on a weak mortar mix. Glass fibre or acrylic can be bed on silicone.

Assuming this is a suspended floor, have you considered how you will install/access the shower trap? Are you going to tile the floor? If so, what sort of floor are you over boarding?

 

[Tel77]

Thanks, I know that the tray definitley isn't stone and fairly certain that it's acrylic as it has some flex in it.

The flooring is currently 22mm moisture resistant chipboard so will be overboarding with 18mm or 12mm WBP before laying the pocelain tiles.

As for access to the waste, the shower tray sits directly over a cupboard below which I plan to make an access hatch for so that I can mount the tray on the floor.

 

[Richard C]

The flooring is currently 22mm moisture resistant chipboard so will be overboarding with 18mm or 12mm WBP

Chipboard is probably the worst possible flooring material you could imagine as a tile base; 22mm is slightly better than the usual 18mm but, personally, I won’t even overboard it. I would consider completely replacing it with 18 – 25mm WBP; the thickness you need will depend on floor joist size/pitch/span. This will give you a sound tile base without the door threshold problems overboarding will result in.

before laying the pocelain tiles.

What size & type of tiles, e.g. glazed or polished porcelain?

As for access to the waste, the shower tray sits directly over a cupboard below which I plan to make an access hatch for so that I can mount the tray on the floor.

Bit of luck there then.

Tiling isn’t rocket science but there are many things that can catch you out & suspended timber floors need special consideration; walls can also catch you out with tile weights, prep & materials. I would advise you read the Tiling Sticky & Forum Archive posts; it could prevent you making disastrous & potentially expensive mistakes. It’s also important to use only quality trade tilling materials of the correct type for your tiles & tile base; cheapo own brand & DIY stuff is mostly crap.

 

[Tel77]

I had considered removing and replacing the flooring but when I looked at it it looks like the partition walls and all walls were put in after the flooring so being able to remove the large sheets of chipboard is going to be tricky which is why the overboarding option appeals.

Not sure on the tile size as I don't have one with me to measure but think they're about 500mm x 300mm.

When it comes to putting the aqua panel in against the stud wall, will this need to be skimmed or can it be tiled straight onto after applying the acrylic primer?
Do the joints between panels need anything doing to them?

 

[Richard C]

I had considered removing and replacing the flooring but when I looked at it it looks like the partition walls and all walls were put in after the flooring so being able to remove the large sheets of chipboard is going to be tricky which is why the overboarding option appeals.

With chip, I would advise taking it up & replacing; it’s surprisingly easy once you get one bit up & you don’t have to remove it in sheets, just cut around the edge or the room (check for pipes & cable) & break it up into manageable chunks with a lump hammer & bolster chisel!

Not sure on the tile size as I don't have one with me to measure but think they're about 500mm x 300mm.

Large format tiles need a very flat tile surface & you will need a large format trowel. Polished porcelain also needs sealing but some come pre-sealed, you need to check with the supplier. Flexible cement powder adhesive only on floors but depending on your tiles & tile colour, you may need white adhesive to avoid bleed through.

When it comes to putting the aqua panel in against the stud wall, will this need to be skimmed

NOOO don’t do that; plaster is not ideal when tiling in any case as it reduces permissible tile weight but Aquapanel can’t be plastered in the conventional way (well not quiet).

can it be tiled straight onto after applying the acrylic primer?

Yes but Knauf (Aquapanel) recommend not to prime & it’s not necessary unless your adhesive manufacturer recommends it. The adhesive will depend on the tile size, don’t use tub ready mix on anything much bigger than 250mm.

Do the joints between panels need anything doing to them?

Fit the panels to correct way around; Knauf have their own joint sealer but some use silicone; you need to be careful as not much sticks to silicone including tile adhesive, if you spread it around too much it’ll cause adhesion problems. Just before tiling, I fill the gap with adhesive & apply reinforcing tape over the join working more adhesive well into the tape mesh; as far as is possible try to ensure the gaps in the tiles don’t coincide with the gaps in the Aquapanel.

By all means continue to ask questions but your starting to make some wrong assumptions which will lead to you making mistakes. Again, I would urge you to read the tiling sticky & forum archive posts.

 

[Tel77]

Thanks Richard C, I've re-read the sticky and things are making sense.

Is it necessary to tank the aqua panel as I can only see a reference to having to tank plasterboard?

 

[Richard C]

Is it necessary to tank the aqua panel as I can only see a reference to having to tank plasterboard?

You can for belt & braces but it’s not really necessary unless you’re constructing a wet room; I don’t tank it & have never had any problems. If you’re using MR PB as well, no need to tank in dry areas but it will need priming if your plastering over half tiles.

Do have a read through the Tiling Forum archive posts as well, lots & lots of info in there & save me keep repeating it but come back if unsure or you need more info.